Promo code please 
I just ordered one of these with the 219s. I am a semi-retired physician and have done some Forensic work in the past. The relatively good color rendition is important. I have had some problems with Bangood previously but they ultimately took care of the problem. At this point, I have not found any problems with it. After reading about the mods combined with having also just receive the D4 with its unusual UI, I will either try and do the mod myself or send it to Lexel which might be a good idea with respect to time. I have some experience doing modificatons and building electronics…but not reflow. Anway….I like this light.
I recommend you have a professional handle it. I had it shipped to Lexel from Banggood and he worked his magic. Saves you alot of time and trouble figuring out how to do it and it’s guaranteed done right. The MF01 is glued tight so most people will not be able to open it without the proper tools. Also Lexel’s prices are very reasonable.
SKV89 Thanks. I did not know about the mods before ordering or I would have saved some time and money by doing what you did. However, if there was a problem with the light…well you know where I am going with that.
He told me that there are two different mods.
Is one of them like the D4?
What mods did you have done?
I did the buck driver mod with spring bypass. Brightness increased from 1244 lux to 1615 lux tested with ceiling bounce. But the most important improvement is the UI. The stock Astrolux driver/ui just plain sucks. If you go with his FET driver, it should bump the lumens alot higher but I wanted longer usable output as the batteries drain. Both should have the same UI similar to the D4.
As you are, I am not so much interested in crazy brightness that is not really consistant with the power available. Run time is more important along with a better UI. So, I am asking him for the Buck Driver mod with spring bypass. I assume the UI is already firmware that has been programmed?
I am curious….relatively new to this site. I have an LPM for laser measurements… what do you use to measure lux?
Yes it does. You can ask Lexel for more info and if you want to tweak anything.
Right now I’m using my cellphone to measure lux from ceiling bounce and convert it to lumens using flashlights with known lumen measurements which is far from ideal. But I will soon own a real lumen “sphere” that our well known TA is producing. A bunch of other guys on this forum will be buying it too so it will become the standard lumen testing aparatus in the flashlight community going forward. Killer deal for only $100 for the 3.5” version.
It does sound like the Buck driver will suit you better. Lexel will convert the carrier to 4S for 12v then rewire the leds to 3S6P for 9v. Then the buck driver will regulate the voltage down and provide a steady amperage.
The e-switch User Interface Lexel uses on his drivers is NarsilM v1.2. It’s more advanced than the RampingIOS used on the D4, but the ramping part is super similar. Narsil can also be switched to mode sets to give you low, med, high, etc… RampingIOS is ramping only.
If you want to get a little more serious about measuring lux, to measure throw for instance, you can get a cheap lux meter. The HS1010A and LX1330B are very popular around this forum. They are $15 to $30 typically.
Ps, there is no reflowing in Lexels mods for the MF01.
I make lasers….so I can solder and work with electronics….question is how complicated is this.
Well the carrier and mcpcb involves cutting traces (a dremel tool is good here) and soldering jumper wires. There are some pictures of how Lexel mods the mcpcb for 6v here. He said modding it for 9v is a bit less work.
The driver is pretty straight forward. Physically swap it out and resold the wires to the switch and mcpcb.
The hardest part is taking the light apart now that they started gluing them together. You would probably need a vice with some padding on the jaws and maybe some rubber strap wrenches. I think Lexel has some wooden clamps that are cut to fit around the bezel and some threaded rods to clamp around it nice and tight in order to break it loose. Since you already have your light you can try and see if you can get it apart and if so, you could probably do the rest of the work yourself.
Ps, spring bypasses are not that hard. You just want to add a short length of wire to the base and the very top of the spring so that it’s still capable of compressing down.
Order placed!
Awesome!
Hi freeme can i get code please for Nichia 219C version ?
Edit: ok thanks order placed!
Hi, can I please have a promo code for the 219C model
Please send to me too for the 219C model. Thanks.
Please send me the nichia code i need 1more
Ordered :smiling_imp:
Thank you!
Interested in V2
They are all the same now. You couldn’t get a version 1 if you tried.