FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Thanks! I didn’t see that one earlier. It helps a lot having more than one person looking for requests. :slight_smile:

Oh, that one is not an error. The list has the correct number (1) for kahvitahra. To check this, look in the right column of the list, which shows requests per person).

I just for the first time ever carried a side-switch EDC light in my pocket for a week (Utorch UT-01 with 4000K R9080 E21A) and although the size, output, beam, tint, and everything else is wonderful, the switch on the side is a royal pain in multiple everyday use, even though in the UT-01 it sticks out well enough to feel it. I swapped back to a tail clicky EDC (E2L shorty with BLF-A6 driver and 4000K R9050 SM407e, lighted tail) this morning and thankfully everything is back to normal: draw and click-on, instead of draw, fumble, click-on.

Morale: the design decision of the FW3A to move the e-switch to the tail is a very good one, and for me essential to make it EDC-worthy.

Morale II: please sign me up for a second FW3A, preferrably in desert tan ano :innocent:

Please put me down for two

Couldn’t agree more. Side switches work OK in benign conditions, but when you’re hands are frozen, or gloved, useless.

That said, I really like my Olight S15 and On The Road M3 for EDC, but only because they have pocket clips that I have glued into place 180 degrees from the side-switches, so no difficulty finding them. Un-glued they can gradually rotate and lead to confusion. Without the clips I would be lost.

Add me to the list for 1 please! Thx. :smiley:

Put me down for one please.

I interested for 1 piece with Nichia 219c NW

Emitters are not defined yet!

Add me for one please!

Ok, i need just 1 piece.

This is true.

BTW, what did people think about the muggle-mode UI poll? I was thinking of doing a similar one for emitter type, if people found the poll method acceptable. It’ll need more explanation though, since the emitter tradeoffs are more complex.

I thought that poll was superb. Easy to use while also allowing for degrees of opinion.

Are we talking 3000 lumens out of this lamp? Sorry if I missed the output(s), but what’s the turbo Lumens and time as well as a sustainable “high” lumems spec if there is one at this point? If not, a target brightness would be interesting.

Please and thanks!

The FW3A specs are vague because the emitter type hasn’t even been nailed down yet. However, it’ll probably do somewhere around 2000 to 4000 lumens on turbo. And the highest sustainable level at room temperature while tail-standing will probably be under 500 lumens, due to thermal concerns. The sustainable level during actual use depends on how the light is cooled… it’ll be capable of more in cold weather than in hot weather.

Perfect
Thank you
Understood and clear

Could i please be added for a 2nd, i really like the direction this light is going

I didn’t vote on that poll, I just expressed my preference here (if I recall correctly)! Is it still active?

Concerning the emitters, as the option is still open, I would consider to make a poll!
BUT, before opening it, I guess the “real” options must be considered before making a list. Due to the availability of the LEDs, due to the original concept, due to the interaction with the driver and heatsinking, and so on…

A general thing as “XP-G3” / “XP-G2” / “Luxeon” / “XP-L HI”… will probably not be enough for this “tough crowd” :smiley: (me included).

If you, TK, or the FW3A Team advance with this, I guess the “real options” (type of LED, bin, etc…) must be discussed first so that we don’t “demand” or “daydream” about something that will not be possible!
My opinion of course :wink:

As an example, there is a group buy on the Wuben TO46R and TO10R that is facing some issues due to a sudden lack of the expected High-CRI LEDs. Member =the= is trying to reach a final product along with the manufacturer.
So, looking to this, the stocks or the possibility to get the emitters must be considered before even givin us “options”!

Thanks for the initiative and the constant information you´ve been giving us TK!!! :+1:

Not all of the first prototype where glued. One off the Germans disassembled the tail. The clip is hold in place by an o-ring (not in the cut away)

You clamp the outer tube to the inner tube and you clamp the clip (over a spring = o-ring) with the back piece. And on the other end you need contact to the head.
Don’t know how easy it is to assemble till everything has contact. Maybe glue is away to go.

Can I go on the list for one?

I realize the inner tube is relatively thin but still wondering if a copper inner tube would be worth considering?

Cu supposedly gets +40% additional thermal conductivity and mass compared to Al; and anodizing on inside of main Al body should be enough to insulate electrical signal.