Why do you buy lights without High-CRI emitters?

Yes… that sums it up very nicely. :+1:

So, are we summing up that even amongst the “dissenters,” there is agreement that high-CRI is very nice to have in many use cases? And that it’s more of an availability problem? I.e., not just that lights with high-CRI emitters are limited, but that even when they are available, the tint/temp choices are sub-optimal in many cases? Because I’m pretty sure tint and temp aren’t limitations of the tech.

I’m not even sure exactly what flavor of nichia are in my Maratac AA, Lumintop Tool, and Reylight mini, but I’m sure I have no complaints about the tint and temp on them, pretty much perfect for my taste. Also, as indicated earlier: Yes the difference is subtle, at first, but at least for me once I got used to it, it’s hard to go back.

To hear a bunch of flashaholics downplaying and otherwise pooh-poohing the importance of accurate color rendering on the objects their illuminating is bizarre to me. It’s like watching a group of people agrue for standard def over high def, or hamburgers made with filler over 100% beef, or cheap domestic beer over craft beer…
Different strokes, lol.

By the look of this poll so far, it sounds like I’ll need to gird my loins and move into mods to really get what I want. I don’t see much pressure on manufacturers to offer better high-CRI lights coming from this group anytime soon.

There are many factors when it comes to choosing a light.

  • CRI is just one of those factors.
  • CRI is a relatively minor factor.

Think of it like graphics in computer games. There are different factors which make for impressive graphics:

  • Resolution: you could play at 640x480 or 1920x1080
  • Screen size: you could play on 12” monitor or a 30” monitor.
  • Color Depth: you could play in 16 bit or 24 bit color.

High CRI is like the color depth option, while color temperature, tint, lumens and beam pattern are like the other options. Sure it helps having the extra colors, but screen resolution and screen size are a lot more important.

_

After I came to CPF and BLF I saw all the posts about high-CRI and jumped on the bandwagon. I NEEDED to get high CRI lights. They were the thing to get. Everyone was talking about how much better things looked with high-CRI.

But then something happened: I tried using my high-CRI lights and compared their beams to lower-CRI lights. I also learned about the differences between CRI, color temperature and tint. After that instead of just being on the bandwagon, I actually made up my own mind based on my observations and drew my own conclusions.

… and I have concluded that high-CRI really isn’t that noticeable most of the time. Not having it doesn’t feel like a detriment. And though I own both high-CRI and low-CRI lights, 95% of the time I’ll reach for a low-CRI light.

I find I can identify objects more quickly with higher CRI lights even when that comes at a cost of about 30% output to go from 70 to 90, all else being comparable. When trying to explain it quickly, I often say it’s the difference between a stick and a snake on the trail.

It might be an exception if the main use of the light is to spot highly contrasting objects, like white sheep on a green hill. My stuff is always more general-use than that though, and because human perception of brightness isn’t linear, it would take a huge percentage difference in output before it mattered much.

If I really want the light but not the emitter I’ll buy it and swap to what I want.
So many reasons to buy a light, nowadays many lights have good emitter options. If not good enough there are plenty of how-to videos for swapping emitters. Else there are plenty of modders.
Welcome to the League of Nighttime Art Inspectors using Cellphone Cameras and Budget Flashlights,

FWIW, here are beam shots of a few different lights ranging from 65 CRI to 92 CRI, including one which is wide-spectrum. No post-processing has been applied, except for the camera’s auto-white-balance mode to minimize color temperature differences and simulate how they look in person.

Without looking at the file names, can you sort them in order of lowest to highest CRI?

A:
B:
C:
D:
E:
F:
G:

… and here’s one which theoretically has 100 CRI since it’s an incandescent light. However, its 2700K tint makes everything look yellow. Here’s how it looks in person for me:
H:

1 Thank

I like my Nichia E03H. :) Usually I don’t have the diffuser on. The light it makes is very nice to me.

I did a runtime test on moonlight with a standard eneloop, it reached 256 hours before I shut it off.

I have generally found that emitter characteristics work like a dart board. Here’s how the concepts map:

  • Color temperature is which concentric ring the dart lands in. The center is neutral white, and the outer rings are increasingly warm or cool.
  • Tint is the angle of rotation, like whether it hits at 2-o’clock or 7 o’clock. Some tints look better than others.
  • CRI is how close the dart is to the center of the cell it landed in. It certainly helps, but not generally as much as the other factors.

Nice analogy Toykeeper.

Yep. :crown: :+1:

:+1:

.
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I do appreciate all of the discussion though. I’ve learned some new things and it’s spurred me to examine other things more closely.

CRI seems to me a blunt and rather useless measure of how the individual’s eyes see things.

LEDs are a big compromise, they use a mix of phosphors to try to replicate a continuous spectrum, hopefully to match with human eye’s rod and cone response, which varies.

And leave big gaps between them, hoping they will not be noticed.

Likewise digital camera sensors use colour filter arrays over a wide-spectrum sensor, to try to get “nice” colours. Then we struggle to reproduce them on un-calibrated monitors with different colour filter arrays, but somehow it mostly works, the human eye and brain is very forgiving.

Try lighting a scene with LEDs and shooting it with a digital camera, critically, and you might realise why flashes, or halogens, (or even daylight), with continuous spectrum, still rule.

Bottom line: trust your eyes (even my left one is different from the right), and choose what suits you, not because of some simplistic CRI number, or popular LED brand name.

Don’t misunderstand, I am as fascinated with tints etc. as most, and have strong opinions, but CRI doesn’t seem very relevant to me, other things dominate in practice, particularly at low light levels, when everything changes, to the human eye, rather than to a measuring instrument.

Definitely not. I tried, but it’s too many and too much scrolling lol. “E” stood out to me the most though (and then as soon as I quoted you I realized I shouldn’t have as all the file names showed :innocent: :partying_face: )

This is my guess TK. And I stress the word “guess”… :smiley:

Lowest to highest CRI……

1. G
2. B
3. A
4. C
5. E
6. D
7. F

Before I forget…

In the pics above, the CRI is (approximately):

  1. F: 65 (cheap SK-68 ~7000K)
  2. G: 70 (XM-L2 3C thrower hotspot)
  3. C: 70 (XM-L 1A floody)
  4. A: 75 (XP-G2 3B floody)
  5. E: 91 (219b, reflector)
  6. D: 93 (219b, reflector + diffuser)
  7. B: N/A (wide-spectrum, looks like >100 CRI)

I don’t have very precise stats on these, so the numbers are pretty rough.

In person it’s easier to guess the CRI, but after a trip through a camera and a screen, most of the extra color information has been discarded so it’s hard to tell which is which.

1 Thank

Without seeing the reveal, here’s the order I put them in:

EDABCGF

I figured the wide-spectrum light would be in there, but I didn’t try to ID it. I have a suspicion it wouldn’t actually test very high for CRI, but might have a higher Rg (gamut). The reds look a little off with it compared to the 219Bs.

Edit: that’s H->L for the order.

That last photo from Toykeeper and the posts by firelight2 sum it up for me. High CRI without also having your preferred colour temp and tint is pointless.

I have two astrolux A01 lights, supposedly both with high CRI Nichia 219, yet one is too cool and washes out the colours, the other too warm and muddies the colours. I dont like either, as far as I am concerned I want colours to look real and natural, and a 70 CRI neutral temp smashes a 90 CRI with noticeably off neutral tint out of the park every time.

I have a neutral 90CRI on the way, and will be very interested to compare it to my other neutral lights, but honestly, I’m not expecting to see much difference.

This discussion has been very educational & thought provoking to me.
The photos by TK are very helpful also.

Her photos & all the discussion illustrates ’to me’, as Zulumoose said; without your preferred Color Temp & Tint…. High CRI does not mean squat. :wink:

Founder’s Harvest Ale backlit by S42 w/ Nichia on my ancient Note 4. :smiley:
(Then the file was stepped on hard by tinypic… :frowning: )

Cheers, happy Friday!

“The End Of The World”? :smiley:

I just got another case of Warsteiner Dunkel. It’s gooooooood drinkin’!

Actually, first in a long time. Winter ain’t B33r Season…