FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

The FW3A specs are vague because the emitter type hasn’t even been nailed down yet. However, it’ll probably do somewhere around 2000 to 4000 lumens on turbo. And the highest sustainable level at room temperature while tail-standing will probably be under 500 lumens, due to thermal concerns. The sustainable level during actual use depends on how the light is cooled… it’ll be capable of more in cold weather than in hot weather.

Perfect
Thank you
Understood and clear

Could i please be added for a 2nd, i really like the direction this light is going

I didn’t vote on that poll, I just expressed my preference here (if I recall correctly)! Is it still active?

Concerning the emitters, as the option is still open, I would consider to make a poll!
BUT, before opening it, I guess the “real” options must be considered before making a list. Due to the availability of the LEDs, due to the original concept, due to the interaction with the driver and heatsinking, and so on…

A general thing as “XP-G3” / “XP-G2” / “Luxeon” / “XP-L HI”… will probably not be enough for this “tough crowd” :smiley: (me included).

If you, TK, or the FW3A Team advance with this, I guess the “real options” (type of LED, bin, etc…) must be discussed first so that we don’t “demand” or “daydream” about something that will not be possible!
My opinion of course :wink:

As an example, there is a group buy on the Wuben TO46R and TO10R that is facing some issues due to a sudden lack of the expected High-CRI LEDs. Member =the= is trying to reach a final product along with the manufacturer.
So, looking to this, the stocks or the possibility to get the emitters must be considered before even givin us “options”!

Thanks for the initiative and the constant information you´ve been giving us TK!!! :+1:

Not all of the first prototype where glued. One off the Germans disassembled the tail. The clip is hold in place by an o-ring (not in the cut away)

You clamp the outer tube to the inner tube and you clamp the clip (over a spring = o-ring) with the back piece. And on the other end you need contact to the head.
Don’t know how easy it is to assemble till everything has contact. Maybe glue is away to go.

Can I go on the list for one?

I realize the inner tube is relatively thin but still wondering if a copper inner tube would be worth considering?

Cu supposedly gets +40% additional thermal conductivity and mass compared to Al; and anodizing on inside of main Al body should be enough to insulate electrical signal.

I don't think this will be carrying any "real" current, just a little signal to control the light with. The extra cost of copper might not be worth it.

A lesson I learned from Liteflux lights is that when you add all of these extra mechanical connections to the signal path you'll occasionally need to clean or tighten all of the pieces. Not a deal-breaker, just the way it is.

In mission-critical use I'd prefer a big knife switch with gold plated contacts, for EDC this should be fine. Time will tell.

_(this is where I'd put a little smile eating popcorn but there are none in my selection box)_

I would think a Cu inner tube would have near zero benefit. I also think any ideas that get thrown up are kind of a moot point since it was never up for discussion, this is Fritz’s design.

Actually a copper inner tube would be counter-productive.

Those LEDs are going to generate a lot of heat. The inner tube sits against the battery. Last thing you want to do is provide an easy heat path to transfer that heat to the battery.

Myself included really like the way this light is shaping up. Love reading all the different ideas and opinions. Being fairly new to decent torches I am learning quite a bit. I don’t know what my original number is but I would really like to be put down for another light, for a total of 2 lights. I am aware that this light is still in it’s infancy but I don’t want to be left in the dark (see what I did there) when this thing rolls out. Thanks to everyone involved.

Like TK said a little while back:

Any heat transferred to the inner tube will come from the body which is aluminium + anodising = no benefit

I can’t say the redesign doesn’t look good because it does, but it makes it look like a Lumintop light instead of a Fritz Custom. So I will most likely not participate as I am not in the market for a factory light.

Thank you, Toykeeper, for all your work on this one’s UI. Much appreciated.

I also liked the old “basic” design better, but I seem to be one of few. Very nice project overall. Hope it will see it’s first production fase soon.

I also prefer the original design.

I was intrigued with Fritz’s original minimalist industrial design (committed @ #169) and I continue to be committed with the more commercial re-design. As I see it even with the adapted suggestions, it’s still a Fritz’s design, just the next version :+1:

Sounds like there are strong opinions on the benefit of (or rather lack of benefit for) a copper inner tube. Lots of reasoning for why it won’t work. The body design is so nice that a tweak of the unseen inner tube is probably the first and only hack I’ll be capable of or willing to try :innocent:

Awaiting patiently and adding my thanks to the efforts of Fritz/Miller/TK and all the FW3A team :beer:

You are number No. #667 and #677 on: Interest list , Post # 4 , Page 1 “:FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #4 by FW3A_Team

+1, I put it in the number #1171 on: Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 71, ,
FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #2127 by pepinfaxera ,

How many lanterns do you want in total? . . . …x… units? .

You are number No. #1047 on: Interest list Post # 4 , Page 1

+1, I put it in the number #1174 on: Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 71, ,
FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #2127 by pepinfaxera ,

Out of all the aluminum parts, the one which would most make sense in copper is the pill section, the knurled section at the head. That’s where the most heat is.

I’m not sure why anyone would want a copper inner tube, since it isn’t visible and carries no significant amount of heat or electricity. Copper there would mostly just make the light heavier and more prone to unintended shorts.

Electrically, a single thin wire would work fine in its place. It should be electrically shielded somehow though, to prevent shorting between ground and the switch signal. On mine, the anodizing there was too thin and it seems to have made the driver clock speed unstable, but when I put a piece of paper between the tubes, the clock speed went back to normal. So, if anything, the inner tube might get a thicker anodized layer than the rest of the host, to prevent that type of issue.