I don’t have very precise stats on these, so the numbers are pretty rough.
In person it’s easier to guess the CRI, but after a trip through a camera and a screen, most of the extra color information has been discarded so it’s hard to tell which is which.
Without seeing the reveal, here’s the order I put them in:
EDABCGF
I figured the wide-spectrum light would be in there, but I didn’t try to ID it. I have a suspicion it wouldn’t actually test very high for CRI, but might have a higher Rg (gamut). The reds look a little off with it compared to the 219Bs.
That last photo from Toykeeper and the posts by firelight2 sum it up for me. High CRI without also having your preferred colour temp and tint is pointless.
I have two astrolux A01 lights, supposedly both with high CRI Nichia 219, yet one is too cool and washes out the colours, the other too warm and muddies the colours. I dont like either, as far as I am concerned I want colours to look real and natural, and a 70 CRI neutral temp smashes a 90 CRI with noticeably off neutral tint out of the park every time.
I have a neutral 90CRI on the way, and will be very interested to compare it to my other neutral lights, but honestly, I’m not expecting to see much difference.
Simply because most of lights I’m interested in don’t have high CRI version or…. the other features makes high CRI LED not so important.
It’s important to me but, low/no CRI is better than no lights at all.
Pic lit by Maratac AA Cu Rev 5, Nichia (deets unknown, would love to know). I mis-spoke earlier when I said the Nichia in the Reylight Mini was about perfect for me; it has the better beam profile, but the Maratac has better tint (temps are both neutral, but again, deets unknown). The Maratac temp and tint seems really close to the BLF Q8’s to me (XPL HD V6 3D,) but obvs with higher cri.