I was intrigued with Fritz’s original minimalist industrial design (committed @ #169) and I continue to be committed with the more commercial re-design. As I see it even with the adapted suggestions, it’s still a Fritz’s design, just the next version :+1:
Sounds like there are strong opinions on the benefit of (or rather lack of benefit for) a copper inner tube. Lots of reasoning for why it won’t work. The body design is so nice that a tweak of the unseen inner tube is probably the first and only hack I’ll be capable of or willing to try :innocent:
Awaiting patiently and adding my thanks to the efforts of Fritz/Miller/TK and all the FW3A team
Out of all the aluminum parts, the one which would most make sense in copper is the pill section, the knurled section at the head. That’s where the most heat is.
I’m not sure why anyone would want a copper inner tube, since it isn’t visible and carries no significant amount of heat or electricity. Copper there would mostly just make the light heavier and more prone to unintended shorts.
Electrically, a single thin wire would work fine in its place. It should be electrically shielded somehow though, to prevent shorting between ground and the switch signal. On mine, the anodizing there was too thin and it seems to have made the driver clock speed unstable, but when I put a piece of paper between the tubes, the clock speed went back to normal. So, if anything, the inner tube might get a thicker anodized layer than the rest of the host, to prevent that type of issue.
Maybe the final design should be modified to be done more like how Liteflux did it.
My Liteflux LF2XT also has an electronic tailcap switch and inner tube, combined with outer body. In order to electrically insulate the inner tube and keep it isolated from the outer tube, Liteflux inserted a thin plastic middle tube.