FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight

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bucky
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Could i please be added for a 2nd, i really like the direction this light is going

MascaratumB
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ToyKeeper wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Emitters are not defined yet!

This is true.

BTW, what did people think about the muggle-mode UI poll? I was thinking of doing a similar one for emitter type, if people found the poll method acceptable. It’ll need more explanation though, since the emitter tradeoffs are more complex.

I didn’t vote on that poll, I just expressed my preference here (if I recall correctly)! Is it still active?

Concerning the emitters, as the option is still open, I would consider to make a poll!
BUT, before opening it, I guess the “real” options must be considered before making a list. Due to the availability of the LEDs, due to the original concept, due to the interaction with the driver and heatsinking, and so on…

A general thing as “XP-G3” / “XP-G2” / “Luxeon” / “XP-L HI”… will probably not be enough for this “tough crowd” Big Smile (me included).

If you, TK, or the FW3A Team advance with this, I guess the “real options” (type of LED, bin, etc…) must be discussed first so that we don’t “demand” or “daydream” about something that will not be possible!
My opinion of course Wink

As an example, there is a group buy on the Wuben TO46R and TO10R that is facing some issues due to a sudden lack of the expected High-CRI LEDs. Member =the= is trying to reach a final product along with the manufacturer.
So, looking to this, the stocks or the possibility to get the emitters must be considered before even givin us “options”!

Thanks for the initiative and the constant information you´ve been giving us TK!!! Thumbs Up

joechina
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Firelight2 wrote:
Please make sure that the head is NOT glued. I’m fine with having no host option available, but would like the option to upgrade the LEDs myself in the future.

Also… is the clip removable? For those of us who don’t use clips, it’s just extra weight in the pocket.

Not all of the first prototype where glued. One off the Germans disassembled the tail. The clip is hold in place by an o-ring (not in the cut away)

You clamp the outer tube to the inner tube and you clamp the clip (over a spring = o-ring) with the back piece. And on the other end you need contact to the head.
Don’t know how easy it is to assemble till everything has contact. Maybe glue is away to go.

orinjuse
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Can I go on the list for one?

pc_light
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I realize the inner tube is relatively thin but still wondering if a copper inner tube would be worth considering?

Cu supposedly gets +40% additional thermal conductivity and mass compared to Al; and anodizing on inside of main Al body should be enough to insulate electrical signal.

Move towards the light.

bansuri
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pc_light wrote:
I realize the inner tube is relatively thin but still wondering if a copper inner tube would be worth considering? Cu supposedly gets +40% additional thermal conductivity and mass compared to Al; and anodizing on inside of main Al body should be enough to insulate electrical signal.

 

I don't think this will be carrying any "real" current, just a little signal to control the light with. The extra cost of copper might not be worth it.

A lesson I learned from Liteflux lights is that when you add all of these extra mechanical connections to the signal path you'll occasionally need to clean or tighten all of the pieces. Not a deal-breaker, just the way it is.

In mission-critical use I'd prefer a big knife switch with gold plated contacts, for EDC this should be fine. Time will tell.

_(this is where I'd put a little smile eating popcorn but there are none in my selection box)_

pinkpanda3310
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I would think a Cu inner tube would have near zero benefit. I also think any ideas that get thrown up are kind of a moot point since it was never up for discussion, this is Fritz’s design.

Firelight2
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I would think a Cu inner tube would have near zero benefit. I also think any ideas that get thrown up are kind of a moot point since it was never up for discussion, this is Fritz’s design.
Actually a copper inner tube would be counter-productive.

Those LEDs are going to generate a lot of heat. The inner tube sits against the battery. Last thing you want to do is provide an easy heat path to transfer that heat to the battery.

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Myself included really like the way this light is shaping up. Love reading all the different ideas and opinions. Being fairly new to decent torches I am learning quite a bit. I don’t know what my original number is but I would really like to be put down for another light, for a total of 2 lights. I am aware that this light is still in it’s infancy but I don’t want to be left in the dark (see what I did there) when this thing rolls out. Thanks to everyone involved.

JasonWW
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Like TK said a little while back:

ToyKeeper wrote:

I think if it sells well, they might make it from titanium, brass, or copper in the future. I’m looking forward to those.

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pinkpanda3310
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Firelight2 wrote:
pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I would think a Cu inner tube would have near zero benefit. I also think any ideas that get thrown up are kind of a moot point since it was never up for discussion, this is Fritz’s design.
Actually a copper inner tube would be counter-productive.

Those LEDs are going to generate a lot of heat. The inner tube sits against the battery. Last thing you want to do is provide an easy heat path to transfer that heat to the battery.


Any heat transferred to the inner tube will come from the body which is aluminium + anodising = no benefit
DB Custom
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I can’t say the redesign doesn’t look good because it does, but it makes it look like a Lumintop light instead of a Fritz Custom. So I will most likely not participate as I am not in the market for a factory light.

Thank you, Toykeeper, for all your work on this one’s UI. Much appreciated.

Dale

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I also liked the old “basic” design better, but I seem to be one of few. Very nice project overall. Hope it will see it’s first production fase soon.

shirnask
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I also prefer the original design.

pc_light
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I was intrigued with Fritz’s original minimalist industrial design (committed @ #169) and I continue to be committed with the more commercial re-design. As I see it even with the adapted suggestions, it’s still a Fritz’s design, just the next version Thumbs Up

Sounds like there are strong opinions on the benefit of (or rather lack of benefit for) a copper inner tube. Lots of reasoning for why it won’t work. The body design is so nice that a tweak of the unseen inner tube is probably the first and only hack I’ll be capable of or willing to try Innocent

Awaiting patiently and adding my thanks to the efforts of Fritz/Miller/TK and all the FW3A team Beer

Move towards the light.

pepinfaxera
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wishiwereaskibum wrote:
Add me for one please! – http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1313603#comment-1313603

You are number No. #667 and #677 on: Interest list , Post # 4 , Page 1 “:http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1120496#comment-1120496

+1, I put it in the number #1171 on: Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 71, ,
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1255477#comment-1255477 ,

How many lanterns do you want in total? . . . …x… units? .

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

pepinfaxera
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toddcshoe wrote:
I don’t know what my original number is but I would really like to be put down for another light, for a total of 2 lights. http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1314739#comment-1314739

You are number No. #1047 on: Interest list Post # 4 , Page 1

+1, I put it in the number #1174 on: Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 71, ,
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1255477#comment-1255477 ,

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

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Out of all the aluminum parts, the one which would most make sense in copper is the pill section, the knurled section at the head. That’s where the most heat is.

I’m not sure why anyone would want a copper inner tube, since it isn’t visible and carries no significant amount of heat or electricity. Copper there would mostly just make the light heavier and more prone to unintended shorts.

Electrically, a single thin wire would work fine in its place. It should be electrically shielded somehow though, to prevent shorting between ground and the switch signal. On mine, the anodizing there was too thin and it seems to have made the driver clock speed unstable, but when I put a piece of paper between the tubes, the clock speed went back to normal. So, if anything, the inner tube might get a thicker anodized layer than the rest of the host, to prevent that type of issue.

pepinfaxera
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shirnask wrote:
Please add 1 more for me (total of 4)

Thanks


shirnask … Via Private messages … wrote:
I asked for a forth in post #2970 and I don’t think it was added. If I am mistaken please excuse me.

Thanks,

shirnask


You are number No. #373, 515 and #716 on: Interest list , Post # 4 , Page 1 “:http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1120496#comment-1120496

+1, I put it in the number #1150 on: Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 71, ,
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1255477#comment-1255477 ,

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

Geuzzz
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Despite liking the old design better, I think I would really regret skipping this one.

Please put me down for one please.

wishiwereaskibum
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Pardon my ignorance, but can someone please explain what is meant by muggle mode?

WishIwereaSkibum

Man Without Shadow
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an easy mode for non flashlight geeks…just easy on/off…or maybe just a few brightness settings…no strobes, maybe no really hot turbo’s…etc

“muggles” were what the magicians of Harry Potter called non magical people.

When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

Firelight2
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ToyKeeper wrote:
… On mine, the anodizing there was too thin and it seems to have made the driver clock speed unstable, but when I put a piece of paper between the tubes, the clock speed went back to normal. So, if anything, the inner tube might get a thicker anodized layer than the rest of the host, to prevent that type of issue.
Maybe the final design should be modified to be done more like how Liteflux did it.

My Liteflux LF2XT also has an electronic tailcap switch and inner tube, combined with outer body. In order to electrically insulate the inner tube and keep it isolated from the outer tube, Liteflux inserted a thin plastic middle tube.

ggf31416
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I wonder if the Samsung LH351D is being considered. In Texas_Ace results the efficiency was quite high and the high Vf is not a problem for a triple.

pepinfaxera
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Geuzzz wrote:
Ok, put me down for one please. Post # 540 Geuzzz

Geuzzz wrote:
Sorry, but please take me of the list. I just succumbed to the temptation of the 3800 nichia lumens in the D4 FacepalmPost # 890 Geuzzz

Geuzzz wrote:
Despite liking the old design better, I think I would really regret skipping this one.

Please put me down for one please. Post # …. Geuzzz

… I put it in the number #1175 on: Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 71, ,
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1255477#comment-1255477 ,

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

pepinfaxera
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xray291 … Via Private messages … wrote:
Greetings.

I don’t recall where I was on the list, I do remember The Miller added me…I’m not too worried about that.

Can I get put down for a second one?

Thanks

xray291 wrote:
I’ll take one…thanks The Miller Sea Post 632 xray291
xray291 wrote:
I’ll sign up for a second one as well… Sea Post 1705 xray291

You are number No. #342 and #794 on: Interest list , Post # 4 , Page 1 “:http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1120496#comment-1120496

How many lanterns do you want in total? . . . …x… units? .

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

xray291
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Thanks for checking things for me.

I’m locked and loaded for 2 lights. That’s perfect!

Thanks all involved for making this a reality. Although I’m not a modder, I love having lights that others around me are in awe of.

CM2010
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Put me down for one please.

Yourrid
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I would like 2!

Thanks! Thumbs Up

Grappler
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1 please

5% of the people own 95% of the flashlights. Hello 5 percenter!

 

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