Yes, B4HV has 5 wire connection, 2 for NTC, 1 for gate, and two thick wires for LED. If you want, I can solder wires on MCPCB and install XHP50.2+fet+ntc (I think I have one spare XHP50.2 somewhere).
Thanks! In that case I can put this back under consideration again. I’m not sure if it would be easier for me to solder the wires on to the mcpcb or the driver! So I’d need to decide that, please let me know your thoughts on that.
Having you install/reflow the XHP50.2+fet+ntc would be most helpful, that’s the main thing I was worried about.
Let me know if you find the XHP50.2 and what CCT, I’m needing NW around 4500-5000K. Or if there’s something else you have with similar output and beam. I’m sub’d to this thread so you can just post about it here or pm, either way is fine.
Also could you pre install the phosphor bronze spring on the driver?
And can that spring be stretched a few mm longer? (I need about 15-16mm total from driver board) or maybe add a few mm solder blob on the free end?
Thanks!
Soldering wires to mosX boards is not trivial, so I recommend that option. I have one piece of 4000K J4 XHP50.2, is that ok?
It's this LED: https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/941-XHP50B00D0BJ440E
I can preinstall spring, but I don't think I have spring that long, which host is that?
Thanks, yes that LED might be OK. I have a few 4000K XML/XPL lights I like a lot them but they’re quite warm, not sure how it will be in XHP. I’m also getting your LuxeonV 4000K on 16mm for another light. The warmer tint is fine in the smaller lights but on the larger lights I prefer more towards 5000K, which is what I was leaning towards for this light, but 4000K could be fine, so I need to consider.
And yes great if you could add the wires to the mcpcb it will be very helpful.
For the spring the one listed on your store are 12mm length correct? (High current gold plated phosphor bronze spring 12x9x1mm)
So it only needs about 4mm more, can that spring be stretched a few mm longer? Then add a few mm thickness solder blob on the free end?
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The host is a rebuild/conversion of an older Led Lenser V2 TL Tactical Light, (Made in Germany)
It looks exactly like this current one but has only one switch button:
The latest version has a side led (map reading light) built into the side of the head, reason it has the second switch.
I’ve also considered XHP35 HD CRI80 http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026064.Cree-XHP35-HD-D4-50E-White-5000K-LED-Emitter
The Led Lenser V2 TL has a TIR (spot) optic. Maybe the xhp35 would be better suited? Heat and current for xhp50.2 could be a concern, (one reason I like your set up with the temperature sensor in the led board) although it’s a very solid built light, thick walled and tight fitting threads
I see he driver also works with XHP35 but are the voltage difference is too great? (12V-8.4V)
XHP35 is 12V led, which type and how many cells you plan to use in that light?
I’m using 2*26650, 8.4V
Then it isn’t possible to use a xhp35 with this driver.
You’ll need a boost driver for that.
You can use the xhp50.2/70.2 in 6V configuration.
4*26350 then choose 4S option for the driver.
Btw, is that even a mechanical switch? It looks like it could be an electronic switch and if that’s the case you need to find another driver anyways.
Also, if this is a 3xC cell light and you are trying to make it a 2x 26650 I dont think you should just be using longer springs to take up the room. You should either make or buy a “dummy cell” (a 0 voltage spacer)
3xC you could possibly do 4x26500’s for the XHP35…
Thanks everyone. Ok just so I understand, the driver is not boost or buck it does not change the voltage, and it’s okay to run the 6V led at 8.4V with the 2S cell config, and since 4S was suggested I assume it’s okay to run the 12V emitter at 16.8V? Are there limits for powering emitters at higher voltages than their listed/rated voltage?
- Switch: I believe it’s a mechanical switch. You cannot do momentary presses until after the switch has been fully clicked ON, like a reverse clicky. (it’s currently single mode so after 1 full click to ON the half presses just blink the led) From my understanding of them a momentary e-switch doesn’t “click” or “latch” to ON.
- longer spring: The longer spring isn’t for the battery length, for the battery compartment spacing (about 12-14mm) I plan to make a short dummy cell type spacer. The longer spring is for the distance between the bottom of the driver and the top of the switch, which has a center contact. The switch sits between batt+ and driver+ and occupies/seals off the forward part of the tube (like a Maglite)
- Cell configuration: It will also fit 3x26500 for 12.6V, however 26500 seems to be nearly non-existent, MTN has some but I’m not sure what currents they can provide as they don’t list the spec. there but they may work. I’ll need to look into the 4*26350 idea and consider the costs to go that route.
Do you have an eta on when an e-switch driver will be available?
@vinte I'm currently busy with other stuff, so I can't tell eta.
LD-B4HV is linear, so that means input v = output v, correct?
For my options:
- 2S / 8.4v input = 8.4v output to led
- 3S / 12.6v input = 12.6v output to led
- 4S / 16.8v input = 16.8v output to led
That correct. The driver can convert some voltage down, like 8.4V at the batteries -> 6V at the LED, but burns the excess voltage away as heat in the FET, which is also the reason the FET is placed on the ledboard.
Also 3S is going to sag below 12v instantly when load is applied so dont use that for a 12v LED
LD-x4(HV) is linear constant current driver, linear means driver regulates output current by burning excess voltage into heat (via electronically variable resistor,which is mosfet in this case),so its output voltage can't be higher than input voltage; constant current means output is current regulated, driver doesn't care what output voltage would be, as long as LED voltage is lower than battery voltage, output current will be constant.
Did you mean 4x26350? A 26500 is basically the same length as a C cell (about 50mm incl. button)
I have about 150mm battery space.
Thanks everyone for the helpful info.
So in my case, from what I’ve just learned, XHP35 is not a viable option with this driver.
Plenty of people have made hot rod type lights with 4x26350 but if you really want to use XHP35 you may be best served to wait for a good boost driver so you have more battery options. (or go with one of the existing mediocre boost drivers that are out there)