Ok, the first light of the day goes to Sherbona. He has a Green MT09R that he wanted 3000k 80CRI LED’s, Spring bypasses, TA driver and tailcap washer.
Final output is not bad at 18k lumens with a nice warm glow.
Woo hoo!! This will be my first ‘below 4000k’ light. Thank you for the update 
Okay just a quick update. Limited supply is now extremely limited supply.
I have a small shipment going to TA tomorrow morning so any orders placed between now and then will go out in that same shipment.
This honestly saves TA and I a huge amount of money in shipping verses shipping one light at a time not to mention getting separate shipments almost daily.
I am pretty sure in stock is down to about 10 units total... once these are gone there will not be anymore of these 2 colors available no matter how badly I want them.
Thanks for all the support.
I almost forgot to add for Canadian orders the shipping charge you pay on my website I forward that to TA for any orders going to him for modifications so you only pay that shipping charge once on my website. I cover shipping to TA.
It is the best warm white light I have seen (except maybe the MT03, just very different use cases), it has the nice warm tint AND a lot of lumens to go with it.
Ok, light 2 for the day is going to caseit741.
It is a blue light with 5700k LED’s, Bypassed springs, TA driver and tailcap washer.
Final output is 21k lumens with the new system.
Once again cleaning all of the contact points for the batteries and carrier upped the output by 3k lumens on this light. So if anyone has low numbers, clean those contact points.
Ok, I got another shipment from Terry today and some more people that we can’t identify.
Person 3: Email address contains .mont and Gmail
Person 4: Email address contains Wayt and Yahoo
number 3 for today is going to Iosala.
It is a blue MT09R with 5700k LED’s, TA driver, Springs bypassed, tailcap washer and some custom firmware tweaks.
It is doing 22k lumens all said and done.
Gonna try to get at least 1 more done today so I can focus on the spheres again tomorrow.
Just received Sony solder blop from TA. Great work. Clean blop.
I also tested the 4 KeepPower 3120mAh rewrapped Sony VTC6 Protected button top cells from illumn.com and got 3056 mAh, 3080 mAh, 3073mAh, 3043 mAh. These are about 150 mAh less than the Haikelite included VTC6 button tops. Don’t know why since protection circuit shouldn’t affect the capacity.
Protection circuits do affect capacity. They can be on the order of 1-2% usually.
Also, cells from different batches have slightly different characteristics from each other, and due to other factors such as heat and minor differences in starting and ending voltages, capacities will differ.
As long as it’s below 10-15% difference, you should not worry too much.
Also, Texas Ace, what kind of soldering iron do you use to solder button tops on cells?
I use my old trusty massive 80W Weller for the job, and with practice, I was able to go 2 secs and under for each cell.
Alright, got 4 done today. The last one of the day is for Kratomas33.
He has a green MT09R and wanted the TA special, 4000k 80cri, TA driver, spring bypasses, tailcap spring.
It is now doing 21k lumens with the new system, pretty good.
I should get all of these lights shipped out tomorrow.
Funny you should mention that, I have been using a $40 chain special combo soldering iron + hot air gun for the last few years and it has worked great for the money, could not be happier.
That said with this new level of soldering I am doing now, I am starting to see it’s shortcomings vs higher end units. I have been debating posting a thread for tips on a good budget soldering iron and/or hot air gun that is a bit better.
For example these tips are not great and drop a lot of temp when soldering larger items. The heat up time is not that great either.
Far as using it for solder blobbing cells, I would say it generally takes me about 3-5 seconds a cell once I get it setup if they are nice and clean and the solder can flow freely.
For tips, I would advise a 80W+ soldering iron with a fat tip, or even higher if you have access to 220V.
Sanding the terminals with 150grit sandpaper along with a very small amount of paste flux/liquid flux works extremely well with this beast:
A fan, along with activated carbon filters, also makes the cell cooling down much better. In this case, you want to solder as quickly as possible, as the more time the cell is heated up, the more damage it sustains.
However, with times of 2 seconds and under, damaged is minimized almost down to regular spot welding, but you need to be experienced to do this. I tried practicing with laptop pulls, and it worked quite well after a few dozen soldering jobs.
TLDR:
1. Get a fat 80W soldering iron, with a fat tip.
2. Sand the terminals and apply a small amount of flux(NON ACIDIC).
3. Solder as quickly as possible.
4. Practice on laptop pulls first. It isn’t worth it at first with new cells. I’m almost ready to do this on new cells with my skills.
5. Watch these videos. These really helped me:
Thanks for the tips, I was really looking for some tips on a new soldering station more then anything though lol.
Also, just FYL, the cells are generally rated to 60-70c+, it is highly unlikely that you will heat it higher then this within a few seconds so cell damage is not a big concern. I hold the cell near the top when doing it and never even have to let go since it does not get very warm.
For a soldering station/adjustable soldering iron, I would advise the TS100:
One of my friends has it, and it is so good. Heats up really fast, excellent temperature control, has micro-USB interface for uploading more firmware, kind of like NarsilM, and can work from 12V to 24V DC power sources, meaning LiPo battery support!
Also, if you are on a budget, for smaller jobs, I use this:
Not as good as the TS100 in terms of features, but heats up very quickly, and is fully integrated.
Works well with 900M Hakko tips, and springs bypasses are easy with flat tips:
Thanks for the info BlueSwordM, very useful! :+1: 
You’re welcome. I like helping people, especially in relation to lithium-ion connections/button topping not using spot welding/laser welding/ultrasonic welding/using beryllium copper springs from Intl Outdoor for beeast non spring bypass connections.
I realized I would be busy most of the day tomorrow and would not have time to mod anymore lights and I only had one more here that I can do at the moment, so I went ahead and finished it today.
This one is for Yourid. It is a blue MT09R with 5700k LED’s, TA driver, Springs and tailcap washer.
It is doing a bit over 21k lumens with the new system.
Now to get all these lights packed up and ready to ship. Tracking numbers should be inbound over the next few hours.