Hmm . . . I wonder too. That would make for a nice added feature! I have one of those Convoy S2 type magnets I could check.
-Garry
It would need to be as thin as possible to fit inside the tail cap. I think the magnet you’re talkin about is the ring style which mounts on the outside of the tailcap. If you don’t mind a magnet on the outside then there are several different sizes to choose from.
Ah, ok. I haven’t even looked at the magnet next to a light to see how it mounted.
-Garry
nope, it has return in this “lock position ” few times, but I was able to return to normality, by randomly clicking, now it’s lock again……
already tight, thanks
How do you know it’s not a battery connection problem?
That seems much more likely than an undocumented lockout mode.
because I have “unlock it” several times without touching the battery/screwing, sometimes I see mild light flash, it’s maybe juste the board who fail… In fact I don”t know what it doesn’t work sometimes, and work the other, everything look fine
ok, so when I place a wire between the micro usb (exterior part is that the +?), and the aluminium body, the headlamp work, do you know where the electrical connection between the board, and the aluminium body should be? a bit of soldering will maybe the solution….
The only thing I can think of is unscrewing the driver retaining ring around the green button, look inside, then retighten. It is a reverse thread. Maybe this will make the driver get better contact.
If that doesn’t work I would have them replace it.
thank you, I tried it before, it didn’t work, now I retried with a better tool and it worked 
:)… Glad to hear you fixed it .
I was happy with my soup can size R2’s …But now you guys had to show off your new headlamps huh ?I found a big rubberized magnet that had a peel and stick …double stuck it to the flat end of the R2 ( it looks like it was made for it.)
At $6-$7 I bought a handful and use a couple not as a headlamp but rather as an area light .Got one stuck to the range hood over the stove and another buried in an amateurish paracord jumble . I’ve been on a little bit of a headlamp buying spree and am ever so grateful that you guys make me have to buy yet another Boruit. The fact it has no nasty low PWM and is moddable makes this light very attractive …
Finally got a couple ordered, thanks for all the info and modding tips.
Had been looking for stuff to add to the order because the last time I ordered there was all kinds of cool stuff at great prices.
Haven’t been on aliexpress for a while and since joining BLF I’ve really gotten spoiled by the great deals offered in the forums, so just the headlamps.
Finally pulled the trigger But noticed when I used a paypal option it charged me an extra buck. .I think it came to $11.90 instead of $10.88 . Whatever …I wanted the light and a silly added fee wasn’t going to slow me down .
I need extra cheap headlamps in case someone wants to “borrow it ”.
Thanks for the heads up on this headlamp
A week later and they’re in the mailbox? Amazing!
I’ve got both of them charging and will see where they terminate. One will go straight to work, the other will get an emitter mod and be used around here.
So far it looks like the value far exceeds the price, this has to be a loss leader in the pursuit of building their brand and reputation.
Nice that they hid the strobes, the nice slow beacon may have some utility, faster one probably not.
Hope I’m never in a situation where I’m wearing a headlamp flashing a few hundred lumens at 6hz or whatever it is.
Man, I love flashlights but headlamps are the bomb when you’re doing anything with your hands.
THanks again!
I just did a few tests on this light using the JoshK sphere.
With a 30Q on high I got right at 650 lumen. Pretty impressive and very close to XM-L2 output.
With a 60° TIR lens in place I lost about 23% output. So now it’s reading about 500 lumen.
Something is wrong with your measurements. On the TIR lens, the light loss should be less than on the reflector.
Nope. Why so you think this?
Because On the TIR lens, the light loss should be less than on the reflector. The loss on the reflector is more than 10-15, the loss on the TIR lens is from 3-5.
In my case, the variants with TIR lenses produced 5-10% more light than the reflector.
And this is normal, it should be so.
Oh, I realized what the problem might be. Charge the battery and try again;)
And yet: after three minutes in the turbo mode, stepdown is turned on. This could not affect the measurements?
I’m yet to see non-AR coated lens with 95% efficiency. Let alone 97%. And AR-coated TIRs are extremely rare (for reasons that are unknown to me)
Quick examples:
Carclo 10199 is 82.5-91.8% efficient depending on LED
Carclo 10507 is 84.4-94% efficient depending on LED
Cheap alu reflector is 85% reflective. Let’s say that 2/3 of light hits it. This varies a bit. But 2/3 gives 90% overall efficiency. Add a cheap AR-coated lens in the front and that’s 87.3% total efficiency.
Umm, because they’re “total internal reflection” lenses? :laughing:
Seriously, it’d be hard to bulk AR-coat just the front surface and mask the rest of the lens. AR-coating the sides/back would be like poking holes in a bucket…
With reflectors, a lot of front-firing light just shoots out all over the place as spill, not really contributing to usable light.
With a TIR lens, almost all of the light is captured, and ideally would be focused to the hotspot with little wasted spill. The only problem (that depends on the type/shape/size of the LED) is that light at the extremes, eg, the corners of the chip, is sufficiently off-center that it might not hit at the critical angle or less, so ends up escaping vs being reflected back into the lens and directed out front.
A perfectly point-source LED chip would get close to “100%” efficiency, minus losses passing through the medium.