home depot 3c triple $8

Can’t not wait to see if 1200 Defiant will be released.

Please! Someone post pictures on how the 3C triple is disassembled!
Like I said, I get 7+ Amps with my 26650 (28+ watts) but don’t want to overdrive the driver or switch until I know how to upgrade it. This is an awesome throwing flooder and I’m sure I’m producing greater than 1200 lumens.
I still want to know what emitter it uses ???.

I burned out the Husky 500 4AA driver and replaced it with a Qlite +1 7135 chip. The driver retaining ring has a lot of space and you need a 26mm driver or contact board to make all tight. !HUSKY 4AA XP-G3 HUSKY 4AA XP-G3 - Album on Imgur!
I used a copper washer to adapt the driver to fit.
I replaced the XP-G3 with an XM-L2 3C on 20mm Noctigon DTP. The only issue I have with this light is the reflector… kinda ugly beam.

The Defiant 1000 lumen is encased in 1 piece. The only thing remove able I can see is tail cap, and head bezel area.

The Husky one is the worse. The thing is built from 1 solid unit. Meaning all emitters, dome, is enclosed as 1 unit. You have to destroy light is you want to MOD. The only thing that comes apart is tail cap.

Nope! Take a look at my photos in the link. Husky 4AA Modified 4AA XP-G3 HUSKY 4AA XP-G3 - Album on Imgur You need to apply hot air from a hair dryer or heat gun because the head is glued on. The glue is a slicone, soft type but you have to be patient. It took a minute or more to heat it up and then you apply steady pressure. It will come off.

Really?, yeah you have to be patient for sure. Which most of us do not have.

Considering the 3C triple, it looks like there are metal tabs that secure the pill to the battery tube. I hope not! I guess to really find out, I’d have to be willing to destroy it. But why break it if it ain’t broke? LOL.
Now with the 500 Lm Husky, with perseverance, determination and patience, I’ve been rewarded with a little modding fun and that’s just one of the many interests most of the people have in this forum. I waited on those copper washers to arrive so I could install the 1st driver (9*7135 Qlite) I had on hand. Richard didn’t have the (FET Driver - 26mm

  • 2S+ Cell: LDO (Momentary) NO LVP
  • Firmware: Standard w/ Memory
  • Turbo Timer: 90 Seconds) mosfet driver I originally wanted but it came in and I have it ready. I’ll be able to use the 4AA carrier, 2*26500s or just a 26650. I didn’t opt for the LVP so it should light up MORE or less with all these battery options.

I refitted a 2×C River Rock light to take a 26650. Cut a section of foam tube (like you’d stuff under drafty doors) with a metal rod down the center. Forgot what metal I used, probably just chopped a long-enough brass screw to fit.

I got a few, and at least capacity-wise, they were quite good. (Good per the capacity rating on the wrap, that is.)

Don’t recall the 26650 (bought 2, 1 bricked, 1 still going in an F13), but it tested at or above its capacity rating. Same with a pair of 16340s for my Jet-II.

I got mine probably just before the mass slaughter of stores, when they wanted stuff cleared out yesterday. Prices were decent, from what little I recall. No complaints.

You’d be retarded to buy them for full-price, but for the 5bux for a pair of 26650s or whatever the deal was, yeah, I got a set.

Well, I modified Home Depot to accept both single 18650 or 22650 battery running ” stock emitters and driver ” The light seems brighter with Li ions running it.

I fabricated a ” dummy cell ” out of thicker grade copper pipe with copper end caps. The cooper ” dummy cell ” fits snug inside flashlight barrel. Then used a 26650 that fit in barrel.

For the 18650 mod. I used a kids toy tube OD 15/16 inch and ID 7/8 inch for battery spacer. Used contact cement to glue 1/32” foam to inside and outside of tube. Then used black duct tape to wrap inside of tube. The process prevents any type of rattle. Battery fits snug inside tube. Tube fits snug inside of flashlight barrel.

Painted the entire battery spacer tube black. Looks like it came from factory.

Now I can use 3 types of batteries if I run into jam. 18650, 26650, or Alkaleaks ( emergency )

Have no idea how to [post pictures with photobucket now gone.

mmalive, which 26650 cell are you using? I know some are too wide to fit in this light.

Pete, I will have to look I forgot what name brand was. The other ones that will work is Liokita, Keeppower 5200, Efest 4200, 5000

On related note: Anyone need battery converter to use 18650? I fabricated a few. Looking sell to a few to fund other projects.

What kind of LEDs are in this light, does anyone know?

This is the one I used, snug but fits: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_108&product_id=679

See post #26.

Been pretty busy.

Update : I modified the flashlight to accept.

CR123A

18650

26650

So I have many options if I run into jam and need power source.

I bought some Liitokala 21700s (yellow), made a new Cu dummy cell/tube and I'm pushing 9A through this light. I was a little worried about a POOF but it's handling the current. Since this light has unknown manufacturer emitters, I can't say for sure but I'm hoping it's putting out at least 2000 lumens. It definitely has a high candela.

It comes apart very easily, nothing is glued. But you have to go in a certain order.

  1. Start by unscrewing the bezel.
  2. grab the reflector, and unscrew that from the body. The pill, which is screwed to the reflector, comes out (unthreads from the battery tube) with it. Pretty easy to get the rest apart from there…unfold those thin little tabs holding in the board with the spring, to get to the screw holding the reflector to the pill. Btw there is no driver in the pill. Is is a very compact e-switch driver with slow PWM located in the tailcap. Would be hard to change, as ther is no easy replacement.

I got 2000 lumens from this light, direct driving it with a single 18650 medium drain panasonic pd cell. High mode has PWM so I’m sure you won’t get the 2000 lumens going through the driver. I didn’t bother to see.

This is a very cheaply made, lightweight light and I dont feel like putting any time into it. The pill is very light and thin, the negative wire attachment to the body is a joke. Much better as a giveaway light for a non-flashaholic.

That is great information! I could 'see' the steps for disassembly but the reflector on mine is tighter than I think the force on the plastic may handle to unscrew it.

I just bought a Sofirn Q8 and compared the two. I have it 'mode set' on mode 5, (.25%, 1.4, 3, 33, full) and the Defiant is brighter on high than at 33% with the Q8. 33% would be approximately 1650 lm so I think a little under 2000 lm isn't too much of a stretch.

At least now, if I burn it up, I have confirmation on disassembly steps. It is cheap. I have better EDCs but this is kept in the vehicle, loaded with lithium AA primary batteries.

I took the plunge and disassembled it. Discovered that there was no thermal paste and considering how much I was pushing it, the light didn't fry. So I resoldered it with 20 gauge wire, copper braid bypassed the head spring, added paste and clamped it to the pill with fabricated 'nut'. Mostly it's the new wire but it's now drawing 10A +. It's heating up faster but I'm going to wait till paste dries to push for longer run times.

Edit: hours later... this thing will cook your fingers after <10 minutes left on high! Going 'hunting' for jack rabbits tonight!

What's going on with this driver? What parts do what? Why is a tail cap driver 'bad' other than just not being able to drop in a better one?

Thanks for the tear down pic BROODMASTER. Is there some thing bringing battery positive down to the driver?

Without seeing the other side of the Driver and Postive Battery PCB, it appears the driver is a direct-drive type driver. The chip labeled 9926A is a dual N-channel Mosfet. Appears they are using both channels parallel. Data sheet indicates it has about 5 to 6 amp capacity. The component labeled S4 and the 2 capacitors next to it feed power to the unmarked MCU. The resistors at the bottom are for the PWM feed to the Mosfet. R2 pulls down the built up voltage in the Mosfet's gates when the PWM is off.

Mosfet datasheet.

http://www.sztuofeng.com/upload/1387021609.pdf

I'm not aware of any issue with the driver placed being in the tailcap.