The FW3A a TLF BLF special elegant triple powerful flashlight

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FW3A Team
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Interest list updated.


- TK

raccoon city
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FW3A Team wrote:

Interest list updated.

 

- TK

I should be on the list for two, but am only on there for one.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1245554#comment-1245554

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1308299#comment-1308299

ToyKeeper
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raccoon city wrote:
I should be on the list for two, but am only on there for one.

Thanks. It’ll be in the next update.

At some point, I plan to have a script go through every post to train it to recognize requests, and in the process it’ll also add missing post numbers to the list and look for any requests which got missed. Then with the complete data set filled in, I can further tweak the engine to recognize things better.

Request numbers will change, since corrections will go in the order posted instead of the order noticed. It may also be useful to merge the TLF requests into the same list, in chronological order, in case there are any supply limitations (distinct batches) like there have been on some other projects. That will also change the request numbers.

DavidEF
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ToyKeeper wrote:
raccoon city wrote:
I should be on the list for two, but am only on there for one.

Thanks. It’ll be in the next update.

At some point, I plan to have a script go through every post to train it to recognize requests, and in the process it’ll also add missing post numbers to the list and look for any requests which got missed. Then with the complete data set filled in, I can further tweak the engine to recognize things better.

Request numbers will change, since corrections will go in the order posted instead of the order noticed. It may also be useful to merge the TLF requests into the same list, in chronological order, in case there are any supply limitations (distinct batches) like there have been on some other projects. That will also change the request numbers.


…and you say all that as if it’s “just a thing”. LOL! Do you even know how lucky we are to have you here? Thanks for all you do around here, sincerely. Party

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

pepinfaxera
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raccoon city wrote:

I should be on the list for two, but am only on there for one.


http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1245554#comment-1245554


http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1308299#comment-1308299


Review Post # 2129 Page 71 I see error. Missing numbers #870, #871 and #872.

I see in Post # 2128 Page 71 , that belong to:

pepinfaxera wrote:
Interest list : Post # 2128 Page 71
-
870 – # Post . raccoon city … Oh, what the heck… … Add me to the list as well.
871 – # Post . t3rminal … Please add me to the list for two lights
872 – # Post . t3rminal … .. “ …… “ …… “ …… “ …….. “
-

Edit Post # 2129 Page 71
870 – # Post . raccoon city
871 – # Post . t3rminal
872 – # Post . t3rminal
I am sorry

EDIT:
Post # 2128 was eliminated by blocked.
Post # 2129 is now new #Post # 2128

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator)

candor
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DavidEF wrote:

…and you say all that as if it’s “just a thing”. LOL! Do you even know how lucky we are to have you here? Thanks for all you do around here, sincerely. Party

Hear, hear!
Please put me on the list for a third. And many thanks to all involved.
JordanZHP
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Please put me down for 2, thanks!

Kingjohn
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Please put me in for a third one!

Hojobones
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Please sign me up for one! Thanks!

Athlon2350
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Please put me down for 3, thanks!.

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I took some time today to add the “votive candle” mode (candle mode timer). It’s off by default, meaning candle mode will go until it’s manually shut off or LVP activates… but the user can click 3 times to turn on the timer and add ~30 minutes. Click 3 times again to add another 30 minutes, and so on. The maximum time it can handle is about 4.5 hours.

For most of that time, it’ll run normally. However, for the final minute or so, it’ll gradually dim, sputter, and then shut off.

The UI diagram has been updated too.

cabfrank
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So cool!

MascaratumB
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I took some time today to add the “votive candle” mode (candle mode timer). It’s off by default, meaning candle mode will go until it’s manually shut off or LVP activates… but the user can click 3 times to turn on the timer and add ~30 minutes. Click 3 times again to add another 30 minutes, and so on. The maximum time it can handle is about 4.5 hours.

For most of that time, it’ll run normally. However, for the final minute or so, it’ll gradually dim, sputter, and then shut off.

The UI diagram has been updated too.

I can’t wait to have this flashlight on my hands Blushing
(specially ‘cause I can’t flash Anduril on other lights)!

Thanks for all the work ToyKeeper Beer

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DB Custom
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I’m SO old fashioned, still have to blow out my candles the manual way…. Wink

Dale

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I’m also interested. Please add me to the list. Thanks!

CrashOne
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What are the tolerances on the inner tube? If it touches the outer tube, the switch will not work I think? I was wondering how durable this solution is.

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CrashOne wrote:
What are the tolerances on the inner tube? If it touches the outer tube, the switch will not work I think? I was wondering how durable this solution is.

If both the inside of the outer tube and the outside of the inner tube are anodised it will be pretty hard to wear it out to the extend that it shorts, and if it does a bit of tape (i.e. Kapton tape is durable and pretty thin) around the inner tube should fix it.

link to djozz tests 

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Jesjes
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Servus,
please put me down for one
Jesjes 1
Thanks

DavidEF
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djozz wrote:
CrashOne wrote:
What are the tolerances on the inner tube? If it touches the outer tube, the switch will not work I think? I was wondering how durable this solution is.

If both the inside of the outer tube and the outside of the inner tube are anodised it will be pretty hard to wear it out to the extend that it shorts, and if it does a bit of tape (i.e. Kapton tape is durable and pretty thin) around the inner tube should fix it.

Yeah, if both the tubes are anodized, I don’t think it will ever wear through in normal use enough to short.

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

eas
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Unless some grit accidentally finds its way in.

Too many streetlights, not enough flashlights.

DavidEF
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eas wrote:
Unless some grit accidentally finds its way in.

Yeah. But I did say ‘normal use’. Wink

I don’t expect the tubes to ever move much in relation to each other in normal use. So, even with a piece of grit finding its way in, I don’t see how it could be a problem within the normal life expectancy of a flashlight. Or am I remembering something wrong about the design?

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

Yohan110
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Interested in one.

Firelight2
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djozz wrote:
CrashOne wrote:
What are the tolerances on the inner tube? If it touches the outer tube, the switch will not work I think? I was wondering how durable this solution is.

If both the inside of the outer tube and the outside of the inner tube are anodised it will be pretty hard to wear it out to the extend that it shorts, and if it does a bit of tape (i.e. Kapton tape is durable and pretty thin) around the inner tube should fix it.
TK reported that she was getting odd behavior from her prototype sample until she inserted a piece of paper between the inner and outer tube.

Sounds to me like just anodizing between the two layers might not be enough. Maybe it would be better to redesign the tube to be 1mm thicker and then add a thin plastic tube between the 2 metal tubes. That’s how Liteflux did it in their LF2XT years ago, and it worked perfectly.

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Firelight2 wrote:
djozz wrote:
CrashOne wrote:
What are the tolerances on the inner tube? If it touches the outer tube, the switch will not work I think? I was wondering how durable this solution is.

If both the inside of the outer tube and the outside of the inner tube are anodised it will be pretty hard to wear it out to the extend that it shorts, and if it does a bit of tape (i.e. Kapton tape is durable and pretty thin) around the inner tube should fix it.
TK reported that she was getting odd behavior from her prototype sample until she inserted a piece of paper between the inner and outer tube.

Sounds to me like just anodizing between the two layers might not be enough. Maybe it would be better to redesign the tube to be 1mm thicker and then add a thin plastic tube between the 2 metal tubes. That’s how Liteflux did it in their LF2XT years ago, and it worked perfectly.

I’m not worried about the inner and outer tube connecting, in general, a bit of Kapton tape would fix that if the anodising was weak, and maybe keep the inner tube aligned so it didn’t drift off towards the head and perhaps hit the wrong contact area.

It’s the little bit at the tail end, where the inner tube has a ridge to keep it in place, which in the cross-section, suggests rather fine tolerances, possibly less amenable to a simple fix, if the anodising fails there.

Edit: http://i.imgur.com/AVSmLGN.jpg

Edit2: The inner tube needs to float, so my speculative comments about wrapping with Kapton etc. are unlikely to work for everyone. Strong anodising and designed spacers are the way to go, if this is to be reliable for everyone.

ToyKeeper
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Thicker anodizing should be enough, but I wouldn’t be opposed to adding an actual spacer to keep the tubes apart. I think half the issues I’ve seen were caused by the inner tube getting knocked sideways during use. Or perhaps just caused by the weak spring. In any case, I want it to respond better to acceleration.

Hopefully there will be new prototypes soon… I’m getting impatient.

Tom Tom
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I think half the issues I’ve seen were caused by the inner tube getting knocked sideways during use. Or perhaps just caused by the weak spring. In any case, I want it to respond better to acceleration.

Wouldn’t that be deceleration Wink

JasonWW
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Tom Tom wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
I think half the issues I’ve seen were caused by the inner tube getting knocked sideways during use. Or perhaps just caused by the weak spring. In any case, I want it to respond better to acceleration.

Wouldn’t that be deceleration Wink


I was thinking impact g’s.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

ToyKeeper
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The only difference between acceleration and deceleration is the observer’s inertial reference frame.

I’d say I want it to respond better to shock, but … that seemed a bit too vague. Shock can include surprising news, or even surprising nudes.

ToyKeeper
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One might even be shocked by surprising gnus… bewildered by a wildebeest.

Hey, it could happen. Especially if they were trained as ninjas.

JasonWW
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Perfectly clear to me.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

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