BTW, Lexel, are you still selling the Haikelite MT07S/MT09R driver?
I would like to buy it, so I can compare it to the TA FET driver for the MT09R.
Also, what are its specs? Would like to know.
I am still selling those
I have here very unpleasant measurements of original MT09Rs
used full VTC6s
XHP35 HI NW 4000K 246k stock
with D4 5000K NW from kaidomain 289kcd which is just LED swap 17.5% more output
The CW I have from another person is totally crap measured stock
only 163kcd
I reflowed just half an hour ago the LEDs for this light and need to make drivers
then I can tell final measurements with my driver @7A
How is the XHP70.2 version for output though? Is it crap or not?
We installed lexel mf02 driver on my astrolux mf02. Its very nice. Thanks lexel.
Is it running on XHP35 or 70?
Xhp 35 nw… we tried to remove the bezel to swap higher bin. It was glued well… so the light have a stock led…
you notice any different in brightness or throw with Lexel driver?
my bezel had weak glue and i managed to open it easily.
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first MF02s were glued with blue weak stuff
now its some white strong stuff, but not nearly as bad as MF01 red stuff
Now MF02 is glued Red stuff too.
From 6 pcs I opened only 2 bezel.
I wonder if the Mateminco MT35 is also using red stuff?
It sounds like they’re using red Loctite. Typically you have to use heat in order to get it to soften up. Would applying some heat do any damage to the parks? Maybe it would only damage the O-ring which is replaceable? I assume astrolux has some method of getting it apart when they need to do warranty work.
I try to warm up but except oring there is second oring, glass And switch.
To change the driver there is no need to twist off bezel.
I guess I got lucky with the MF02 I received, it came off with just 2 hands using rubber BBQ gloves in a padded vice. It fought all the way, and there was some type of thread locker, it wasn’t blue or red, kind of yellow/clear looking. Having 2 Drag Bikes and a Hot Rod Harley I use both Blue and Red Loctite more then the average Joe and I know the look/smell of the stuff very well, this stuff on the MF02 I had was neither?
It might be the way they are Torquing the bezel on, the amount of torque used, initially that makes it soo hard to break, once it was broke loose it still was a beast to thread off.
MF02 as far as I know
first blue stuff, very soft, easy to open
then some weird white stuff ahrder to open
I used 140-150°C on red locktite lights and my clamping adapters
Here is shown how a XHP70.2 is DD driven I would not recommend it
left original GT calculation;
middle 50mOhm resistor mod pushing the original driver over the rated specs, Input capacitors should be doubled
regulation can break down as the minimum ripple not met with 10uH Inductor,
right my driver with proper sized upgraded parts
New generation of MOSFETs with 1/3 the conduction and half the switching losses,
2.2uH for proper ripple current and less losses on it,
reduced voltage divider to get the sense resistor smaller,
better diode 20A instead 3A
Its possible to push the original to 5 max 6A, but changing R14 to 12kOhms and adding at least 20-30uF input capacitors
I would no go beyond 7A with the LED its not worth it
Just today I contemplated how far do I think XHP70.2 deserves to be driven.
My answer (based on the same chart) was 12A.
yes 12V 6A or 6V 12A is a conservative choice getting tons of output with moderate efficiency
I sold some drivers and people decided after seeing this test to go for 6A when their first wanted 8 or even 9A @12V
Hallo, ich brauche einen Treiber für die BLF GT —XHP 70.2—.Hat noch jemand einen zu verkaufen
.Ich komme auch aus Deutschland (Hessen).Liebe Grüße Andy
Oh, so you meant 7A 12V. That’s a good number.
I’m sorry to ask another question, but is there a 4S BLF Q8 driver that can buck down to 3V LED voltages that you buily?
Would be quite nice if that were the case.