The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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pennzy
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Are candy cigarettes and bubble gum cigars still made?

WalkIntoTheLight
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pennzy wrote:
Are candy cigarettes and bubble gum cigars still made?

Yes, but you have to vape them now.

pennzy
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That’s good.

Phlogiston
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nquinn wrote:
Are there any lights that use 14500’s with a medium mode and a long run time? I’m trying to find a small AA sized light that can run at 30-50 lumens for as long as possible.

The problem is most of the lights in this range only last around 7-8 hours on an alkaline/nimh, but if you jump to a 14500 they just crank the brightness up in medium mode rather than providing a long run time.

I’d love to get 12-15hrs out of a small light at 30-50 lumens for camping.

For comparison, a skilhunt h03 can run for 75 hours at 20 lumens on an 18650!!!

Total energy in a 14500 is pretty similar to an Eneloop NiMH, so I’d be surprised.

The advantage of the 14500 is the higher voltage and the higher brightness you can get as a result without incurring the inefficiency of an AA boost driver.

If you want maximum runtime at all costs from an AA light like that, your best option is probably to try putting a 1.5V Energizer lithium primary in it.

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Nooner wrote:
As a relative newcomer to this forum this has been a valuable thread for me. Both reading past posts and getting answers to questions I’ve posted. A lot of good information.

Thing is I think it would be a lot better if people stopped making jokes. It dilutes the information. If someone wanted to read past posts to see if their question has already been answered they’d have to sift through a bunch of blah blah blah.

I wasn’t going to say anything but maybe I’m not alone in this sentiment.

Anyways. Feel free to call me lame and a party pooper (or worse I don’t care). I’m a big boy. I can take it.

Thanks guys

I’ve posted a couple of questions in this thread and received helpful answers, but I also like the lightheartedness of the thread – I think it makes it even less intimidating for novices to post their not-so-stupid questions.

GreenLights
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In the flashlight world, is an electronic switch the same as a classic momentary switch? I am not talking about a flashlight forward-clicky momentary, but rather a non-engaging non-latching, non-clicky momentary. I am strictly asking about the mechanics, not about the differences in what they do on a flashlight. If they are basically the same, in a flashlight such as the Q8, are they normally open or normally closed?

Just discovered this wonderful addiction.

WalkIntoTheLight
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Phlogiston wrote:
nquinn wrote:
Are there any lights that use 14500’s with a medium mode and a long run time? I’m trying to find a small AA sized light that can run at 30-50 lumens for as long as possible.

The problem is most of the lights in this range only last around 7-8 hours on an alkaline/nimh, but if you jump to a 14500 they just crank the brightness up in medium mode rather than providing a long run time.

I’d love to get 12-15hrs out of a small light at 30-50 lumens for camping.

For comparison, a skilhunt h03 can run for 75 hours at 20 lumens on an 18650!!!

Total energy in a 14500 is pretty similar to an Eneloop NiMH, so I’d be surprised.

The advantage of the 14500 is the higher voltage and the higher brightness you can get as a result without incurring the inefficiency of an AA boost driver.

If you want maximum runtime at all costs from an AA light like that, your best option is probably to try putting a 1.5V Energizer lithium primary in it.

You can still buy the Zebralight SC52, which takes all AA chemistries, as well as 14500 lithium-ion. Mode levels are exactly the same between AA and 14500, with the exception that 14500 allows for a brighter maximum mode (the other levels are the same brightness).

You get about 8 hours at 50 lumens from an Eneloop Pro. I suspect that might be at least 10 hours on an Energizer Lithium. You can also get higher capacity 14500’s now, which might give you 10 hours. There’s a 25 lumen mode, and you’ll get your 15 hours on that with an Eneloop Pro, probably with a good 14500 too.

If you don’t insist on a dual-chemistry light, the Zebralight SC53 and SC5 are a bit more efficient than the SC52, so will get slightly better run-times.

I don’t think you’re going to find a 1xAA or 1×14500 light that will give you 12 hours on a 50 lumen level. That’s asking too much, right now.

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GreenLights wrote:
In the flashlight world, is an electronic switch the same as a classic momentary switch? I am not talking about a flashlight forward-clicky momentary, but rather a non-engaging, non-clicky momentary. I am strictly asking about the mechanics, not about the differences in what they do on a flashlight. If they are basically the same, in a flashlight such as the Q8, are they normally open or normally closed?

Mechanical they are the same, but a momentary tail klicky has to carry a lot more amps. So it should be bigger, with better switch contacts.
If you buy a switch you had to specify:
Ampere, Volts, AC or DC, how many cycles
They are normally open.

Rolph
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Which battery is the best?

Pablo de Llama
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Hmm. I’m not sure which of these two interpretations you meant:

What battery model is best? Depends on the kind and size of battery.

What kind and size of battery is best? Depends on the application. Button cell batteries are almost always bad though. Big Smile Wink

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Rolph wrote:
Which battery is the best?

The big ones, usually.

Those are the ones I like.

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If I were to choose a failproof thrower flashlight into urban exploration of a miles long pitch black underground tunnel system, is the Thrunite Catapault v6 or the Manker U22 more reliable? Is my Sofirn SP31T as good as either, or is a Zebralight SC600 MKIV more failproof than all 3? Or is the Armytek Barracuda Pro the most failproof relatively compact thrower? Can I depend on my SP31T to be failproof or do I need to spend money to buy something else?

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Rolph wrote:
Which battery is the best?

Its depend.. i will say sony vtc5a.. then samsung 30q, sanyo ncr18650ga.

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the4ds9 wrote:
If I were to choose a failproof thrower flashlight into urban exploration of a miles long pitch black underground tunnel system, is the Thrunite Catapault v6 or the Manker U22 more reliable? Is my Sofirn SP31T as good as either, or is a Zebralight SC600 MKIV more failproof than all 3? Or is the Armytek Barracuda Pro the most failproof relatively compact thrower? Can I depend on my SP31T to be failproof or do I need to spend money to buy something else?

I will say thrunite catapault v6 is more reliable..( still waiting for my v6). i have thrunite tn36ut, tn30, tc20, tn42, and tn40s. thrunite driver and spring are bulletproof.. they never failed on me.

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Pablo de Llama wrote:

Hmm. I’m not sure which of these two interpretations you meant:


What battery model is best? Depends on the kind and size of battery.


What kind and size of battery is best? Depends on the application. Button cell batteries are almost always bad though. Big Smile Wink

98% of time, flashlights need button top..

Phlogiston
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Re: failure-proof flashlights.

There’s no such thing. Always carry a backup.

You can certainly get extremely reliable flashlights, but nothing is ever perfect.

The best flashlight in the world won’t do you any good if you drop it and the cell fails. It happens; there have been a few “torture tests” where the light survived, but the cell didn’t. Always carry spare cells.

It is a very good idea to choose primary and backup lights that can use the same type of cell. That way, you won’t get into a situation where you have a dead light with charged cells, but you’ve used up the cells that fit the working light and you can’t swap them over.

the4ds9
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Thanks so much.

Pablo de Llama
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Newlumen wrote:
Pablo de Llama wrote:

Hmm. I’m not sure which of these two interpretations you meant:

What battery model is best? Depends on the kind and size of battery.

What kind and size of battery is best? Depends on the application. Button cell batteries are almost always bad though. Big Smile Wink

98% of time, flashlights need button top..

These batteries are expensive, and flashlights that use them tend to be not much smaller than AAA lights, which offer much more brightness and runtime, IMHO. Smile

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We seem to be getting confused between “cell with button top” and “button cell”. They’re two different things.

“Cell with button top” on the right, “cell with flat top” on the left:

[Image courtesy of wheniwake on Planet of the Vapes ]

“Button cells”, also known as “coin cells”:

[Image courtesy of Wikipedia ]

WalkIntoTheLight
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Newlumen wrote:
Pablo de Llama wrote:

Hmm. I’m not sure which of these two interpretations you meant:


What battery model is best? Depends on the kind and size of battery.


What kind and size of battery is best? Depends on the application. Button cell batteries are almost always bad though. Big Smile Wink

98% of time, flashlights need button top..

I think you have that reversed. I have only one 18650/26650 light that requires button-tops (BLF Q8). All others either require flat tops (such as Zebralights), or work fine with flat tops (anything with springs or posts at the positive end).

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Phlogiston wrote:
We seem to be getting confused between "cell with button top" and "button cell". They're two different things. "Cell with button top" on the right, "cell with flat top" on the left: !{width:90%}http://vaporlifenaples.com/image/cache/data/Product%20category/Batteries... [Image courtesy of *wheniwake* on "Planet of the Vapes":https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/forums/posts/1257374/ ] "Button cells", also known as "coin cells": !https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/Coin-cells.jpg... [Image courtesy of "Wikipedia":https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button_cell ]

Yes, I meant those coin cells. Wink

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Phlogiston wrote:
We seem to be getting confused between “cell with button top” and “button cell”. They’re two different things.

“Cell with button top” on the right, “cell with flat top” on the left:


Big Smile

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GreenLights
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I don’t have the tools to test this. If I hook up a Nichia 219c 4000K directly (no driver) to a fully charged 30Q just to test and compare tints, approximately how many mA is it pulling?

Just discovered this wonderful addiction.

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GreenLights wrote:
I don’t have the tools to test this. If I hook up a Nichia 219c 4000K directly (no driver) to a fully charged 30Q just to test and compare tints, approximately how many mA is it pulling?

The 219C has a low forward voltage (Vf), so unless the led has very good heatsinking, the answer will be too many, enough to damage it.

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ggf31416 wrote:
GreenLights wrote:
I don’t have the tools to test this. If I hook up a Nichia 219c 4000K directly (no driver) to a fully charged 30Q just to test and compare tints, approximately how many mA is it pulling?

The 219C has a low forward voltage (Vf), so unless the led has very good heatsinking, the answer will be too many, enough to damage it.

I agree with ggf31416, you’d definitely be risking damage to the LED.

You could just solder a 7135 or two to a piece of stripboard, though – that would be enough of a “driver” to keep things under control.

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Question about Nichia. On Reddit I often read about this. Why Nichia so cool?

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Rolph wrote:
Question about Nichia. On Reddit I often read about this. Why Nichia so cool?

They’re one of the few LED mfrs that make high-CRI LEDs.

If you notice how if you’d use a CW (cool-white, ie, bluish-white) LED when looking at, say, a woodgrain cabinet, it’ll look a dull dingy grayish-brown color. With even low-CRI warm-white, reds and browns will “pop” and be much more vibrant.

High-CRI means that whatever color-temperature you’d have — cool, warm, or neutral — you’d be able to see truer colors as if under natural daylight, that blues will look blue, reds will look red, etc. Differences can be very subtle, and you’ll hear things like “R9 value” and such, which is a shade of red that lots of LEDs have problems handling.

Nichias were (probably?) the first to offer high-CRI LEDs, ‘though now others are starting.

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Rolph
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Thank you!
And what about Cree?
Why the majority of companies use Cree, not Nichia?
That’s too expensive?

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$$

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Rolph wrote:
Thank you!
And what about Cree?
Why the majority of companies use Cree, not Nichia?
That’s too expensive?

The Cree leds tend to be the leds with best output and efficiency. But the last two years some other manufacturers have catched up on both and usually do that with better tint/CRI/tintshift than Cree, so using Cree leds makes somewhat less sense atm. Some types of led however are simply not available other than from Cree, i.e. the XHP70.2 is big, cheap, efficient and has immense output, there is little competition for that.

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