LIVE: Lumintop ODF30 groupbuy

price difference is 12 $ (ODF30 is cheaper)

Interested

I don’t know the rofis history. Lumintop is a good brand… I am very happy with my odf30.

Liitokala, efest, and shockli all fits in the odf30.

Agreed. But so is Rofis. Their products are all top notch.

The Rofis MR70 has a similar max of 3500 lumens on turbo. It steps down to 1500 lumens after about 3 mins. That is a nice long period on turbo.

High is 1000 lumens. But doesn’t get too hot to hold at all even in an equatorial climate. Excellent flood.

Mid is a nice 540 lumens too.

And my personal peeve with the Lumintop ODF30 is that it doesn’t have a microUSB port for internal charging. The Rofis MR70 not only has a 2A quick charge port but can act as a powerbank too in an emergency.

What I do like about the Lumintop ODF30 is the constant high 1800 lumens in its HIGH MODE. If those heat sink fins allow comfortable handling while it runs on HIGH for an extended period, it would be truly useful. Can any owner confirm?

Based on the runtime charts that Narmattaru posted here , High mode is not constant. It steps down after about 20 minutes, but that’s a fairly long time.

I just got the code and ordered the light, now the wait begins……

Just make sure to use unprotected 26650 if you want to use turbo mode… protected cell wouldn’t provide enough power.

How much current does it draw in Turbo?

Received mine - new version - here (through Martin). Great deal as always!

If you haven’t received yours yet, pay particular attention to Martin’s video clip at post #38 in this thread.

The tiny/thin/short front battery contact spring seems to be very sensitive to pressure. Mine compressed flat without much pressure at all - didnt’ even attempt a 70.00mm at all. (By the way, the spring in my unit looked darkish in color out of the box, not brassy at all.)

With the permanently compressed spring, my ODF30 has no tolerance for battery length at all. It fits or it does not.

Someone can answer about current draw… I know for sure acebeam 26650 protected will not make it to turbo mode… it stays on turbo mode for one second and went back to high mode… mode

Just giving out some information… that’s all…

Now turbo mode is died… anyone experience with the unprotected 26650?

which cell are you using in this light?

I tested amp draws using a Liitokala 26650 cyan.

At 4v, turbo to eco:
9.0
3.84
1.0
0.214
0.015

At 3.6v:
10 for a few seconds then steps down to 6.4
4.6
1.26
0.250
0.025

It’s important to make sure the battery tabs are compressing on the cell. I tried to fit a protected KeepPower, but it didn’t fit and it compressed the tail cap tab. This tab does not spring back very much at all. After putting the shorter unprotected Liitokala back in turbo would step down after 1 second. I had to bend the tab on the tail cap back up to apply better pressure on the battery. Then it worked normally.

Lumintop sells a protected 26650 that fits it, but I think it’s quite short at 68.5mm. Most protected 26650 are longer than that.

Also, early versions of the light had the metal tab design on the driver, but later versions have a single metal spring . The tail cap PCB still has the metal tab design.

I posted a mini review with pics and lumen measurements here if anyone is interested. Short Review of Lumintop ODF30

My Lumintop ODF30. Current on Turbo.

It is going to vary based on the battery and it’s voltage. What cell are you using and it’s voltage?

Black LiitoKala 26650 5000mAh. Fully charged at 4.2 volts.

Interesting, I just topped off my cyan Liitokala 26650 and tested and initially got 8.6 amps in the first two or three second measurement. Then I tried it three more times (a few seconds each) and each one was 8.7 amp.

My black Liitokala seems to measure 8.6A after several tries.

Interesting enough. While measuring I can push down on the battery to compress the driver spring more and amperage will drop down to about 8.35A for each cell.

I confirmed that the output does not change as the driver spring is compressed (which reduces resistance through it), it just reduces the amperage draw on the battery.

I use the same clamp meter as you, but a shorter and thicker jumper wire. Maybe that is why we are getting different readings?

I do not know, I tried several times. The current was roughly the same. In just one attempt, he briefly exceeded 10 amperes. I have a newer version with a spring on the driver. The wire I used to measure is copper and has 2 millimeters on average.

Does this mean that such clamp meters (as the red one used in the above pic) will only give ballpark or varying readings & not accurate or consistent readings?

No. These meters should be pretty accurate. I get very consistent readings everytime. I decided to check the accuracy stated on the meters spec sheet. For the 20A range of DC current it shows plus or minus 2% plus 3. This means all the UT210E meters should have less than a 4 deviation between them. I think it also means they all read 3% low. Let’s forget that 3% part because I don’t really understand it and it’s confusing.

So if I measure 9A, the real number could be from 8.82 to 9.18. If Petr measures 9.6A with the same battery model and same voltage then the difference is probably due to something else. The difference is roo large to be due to the meter (if we trust the specs).

There are many variables inside the light, battery, the test wire length and gauge, springs, etc… than can effect an amp draw test. Pushing down on the battery when doing the test saw the amperage drop from 8.7 to 8.35. That was neat to watch.

As I said earlier, as voltage drops the amperage increases. As resistance increases, amperage increases.

Even though Petr and I are measuring with the same model black Liitokala battery, there might also be small differences in its internal resistance that can effect the current draw. Certainly a battery with protection circuitry will have increased resistance and draw more amperage. Some batteries have bigger voltage sag under load and will draw more current.

His light might have a bit more resistance in the driver spring or the driver might just be drawing a bit less power. His driver might not have as good a ground path as mine, etc…

Just to see if the test wire made a difference, I measuring my light on turbo using a thin piece of speaker wire and got about 9A compared to 8.7A using a very heavy gauge wire.

I also tested it with a protected KeepPower 5200mah (protection circuit rated at 10A) since I didn’t need the tail cap to fit. At 4.1 volt I saw it draw 10.6A for a second and then step down to 4.34A.

I tested a Samsung 30Q (4.1v) and got a steady 9.3A. The smaller 30Q has a bit more voltage sag under load then the cyan and black Liitokala’s which explains why the amperage draw was a little bit higher.

I hope that helps explain that there are lots of variables.