Building a little flooder

Just ordered one of these the other day, sounds like it checks a lot of the OP’s boxes.

Wow!A lot of things to consider and even more to read.Thank you for the suggestions!

@BlueSwordM:I wanted to ask about the reputation of Kaidomain, there are a lot of things there that caught my eye.I would really appreciate the higher CRI and those nichias seem to be perfect for a future project.I’m going to look into how hard I can drive one without catching fire.
Also I was looking for THE most efficient driver I could get because I really like bigger runtime,but I guess a decent PWM without driving it to the max would be sufficient.Am I right?

@Yokiami:I didn’t know that about higher CRI so I’ll read more about the heat management.That’s what I’m willing to sacrifice,a little bigger shell for a little more output.Would you recommend a beefy led ie a XHP50.2 driven less or something like an XPL driven harder?I’m talking runtimes and heatwise.Also I really like the K8F but I hate the fins on the lower part of the shell.Perhaps I can grind them off?

@Garrybunk:That’s a nice flashlight,I really like the copper head base and the Nichias but it’s 25 usd right now and I might have trouble with customs here in Greece.I’m definitely gonna be watching for a deal and I see me buying one in the not so distant future!

@Lightbringer:I’m sorry but I’m still trying to get familiar with those terms.What I wanted to say is I’m looking for a semi floody flashlight like the S2+ with a little more output.Ideally I’m looking for a mode between my med and high (2100 driver) in a flashlight host that doesn’t heat up as fast as my Convoy on high.Runtimes are important to me,that’s why I’m seeking a beefier flashlight but still pocketable.

Wellp, you could try a zoomie like a SK98 (18650) or SK68 (14500) to tell the difference. Zoomed in to a Bat Signal picture of the LED, that’s all throw. Zoomed out to its widest, it’s a nice perfectly even blanket of light.

You can mod that, as most of them come with “hollow pills”, ie, just a ledge that the LED-on-MCPCB just rests on by its edges. Sucks as far as heat transfer, but you can use the Penny Trick (real Cu pennies or whatever you got there), filed flat and soldered into a stack, pushed into the pill from behind, etc., so the MCPCB would sit on that.

Or just play with it as-is, and just don’t push it too hard.

I don’t know the size of you pockets :wink: , but here is a quick picture of some lights :

EAGLE EYE A6 EAGLE EYE X6 Convoy M2 Convoy M1 JAXMAN M8

The X6 with the LD-B4 6Amp driver and a LUXEON V 4000K is one of my most used flashlights. Great tint and all round beam profile, and with the ability to adjust the current in UI.

The JAXMAN M8 is another perhaps more pocket friendly option, it’s not available as a host though.

How do you find the output of the luxeon?You must be getting close to 2000lm at 6A!!!According to a review I found here I ’ll be pretty satisfied with 900lm at 2A,plus I’ve read good things about the tint,as you said.
I really like Jaxman flashlights!Is the M8 a mini c8?

Thank you for the pics!!!

If you like Jaxman and a floody beam, why don’t you try out their E2L? they have it with Nichia as well.
I recently built a E2L triple myself, (they do sell the host) with the 4000k Nichia 219c MCPCB from jaxman with a convoy 8x7135 Biscotti driver, just because it is possible to mod it afterwards since Jaxman likes to glue up all their lights.
The tint is beautiful and the heat from the 8x driver seems to be transferred really well. (it does get quite hot after 5-10 min)

I like the looks of the E2L and the triple nichia option is really nice!It seems to be a Convoy shape with fins.I was wondering if the removal of aluminium to make the fins is better than leaving the walls thick so the heat is absorbed by the aluminium.
Could you provide some links for the host and the biscotti driver?I’m really interested in a similar build!

Fins are made to create more surface area which allow more heat transfer.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fin\_(extended_surface)

It says not available at the moment, you can always ask them (i did, they were not available at that time as well)

I bought the driver from banggood

Or the finished jaxman
https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/JAXMAN-E2L-3LED-TIR-LENS-flashlight-18650-flashlight-torch-CREE-XPG2-camping-cycling-outdoors/1812094_32812945810.html?spm=a2g0x.12010608.0.0.542b2437Gb8ZgQ

I get what the fins are doing,but only if they are added outside the tube,leaving the walls thick(like a thorfire vg15s for example). My disbelief is how efficient it would be removing material in order to have fins leaving the walls thinner.
I guess I’ll have to order the full flashlight and repurpose the shell when I get bored.I also ordered the same driver for another project but mine didn’t have the “new firmare” description,so it’ll come with the standard firmware.I’ll try to find if flashing it would be possible.
Thanks again!

The output is great, I don’t know the exact lumen output but is enough :slight_smile:

Yes it’s a smaller version of the C8, the cheapest version with the XM-L2 emitter is $18 plus shipping from Aliexpress :
JAXMAN M8 flood version

That settles it!I’m ordering 2 V4000,one for the convoy and one for a jaxman and I’ll put the Convoy’s xml2 in a bigger host to be driven at 2.8.I like the tint of the xml2,so i’m keeping it for later.
Do you have any opinion about luxeon vs xml2 tint-wise?
Thanks man!

I think tint is a very subjective thing, what to me looks like a nice neutral tint might seem warm or cold to somebody else.

I don’t have many flashlights with a XM-L2, but I really like the ” XM-L2 T3 7A3 3000K - 3250K CRI90 “:http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026307.Cree-XM-L2-T3-7A3-Warm-White-3000K-3250K-CRI90-LED-Emitter from Kaidomain

The Sofirn SP 32A is floody , S2 size, and more lumens. Oops, just reread your OP and I see you like tail switch.

@khas I started looking more a higher CRI leds,so this one is right up my alley.Thanks!

@pennzy Last week I ordered a SF36,as there are a lot of great reviews for the Sofirn flashlights.The reason I wanted a tailswitch is to be able to modify it easier in case I need to change the driver.Are side-button drivers easily interchangeable?

Nice! I bought several Sofirn lights recently. Overall they seem like an excellent value (especially considering the sale prices I paid and that most of them came with a battery and charger).

I also prefer high CRI when I can get it, but I like Sofirn’s NW emitter choices. The XP-L V6 in the SF36 is my favorite one. I feel the tint is just a bit nicer than the XP-L2’s in the SP31 and SP32A, but those aren’t bad by any means, they all work for me.

The SF36 surprised me. Outside of the BLF Q8 I’m generally looking for more compact EDC lights, but once I had the ’36 in hand it appealed to me all-around as a general utility light. As much as side switches and fancy UIs can be cool, there’s definitely something to be said for a simple tailswitch and modes that just work and don’t need to be explained before you hand it to someone.

I started seeking for Convoy M1 hosts and after some suggestions on the forum I found similar type hosts like the Jaxman M8 and the Sofirn SF36 so I ordered what i found cheaper.Though my next order will probably be a Thorfire VG10S,which is similar to the Sofirn.A Luxeon V4000 will go in that one and a Blf A6 driver to drive it a little harder than my 2.1 Convoy!

I’m really glad that the SF-36 lives up to the hype!I am also a fan of compact EDC formats.I was worried about the available tint but your input made me realize that it can’t be too bad

I have the 32a and the 36 . Both very nice . A little more output with the 32a. It would be easier to change the 36 if you wanted. The 36 does have potential to be driven a little harder. The 32a is a little more compact to carry and has ramping if that turns you on . The beam is a more even flood .

You re really tempting me with the 32a man.I was thinking about a side-switch flashlight and the 32A is really nice.How’s the switch?Does it have a better feel than the tailswitch?Are they more silent like most people suggest?

The switch is silent. As with all my Sofirn side switches, I glued a stainless washer around the switch to prevent accidental activation . Picked up an assortment pack at Harbor Freight. A little goop holds it firmly yet it can be removed without damage if I want to. Works great. No need to lock out now. Sofirn are good people too if you need them for anything.

Well,no way of knowing unless I try it,so thanks for feeding my hunger!The SP33 also looks really nice,and I trust the forum about the good words for Sofirn!
So I’ll look into both of them for my first side switch!