I’d use an FET driver from Richard paired with an SST-40, I think. That is a good combination for this C8+ or the HD2010 either one, where the parameters are as you outlined. I think I’d use thermal paste to begin with, try it out, and if the spot was too large I’d pull the pill and remove the emitter then slice/dice/shave the SST-40. Would probably re-flow the emitter/mcpcb into the pill then, might would reinstall it with thermal paste and double check first but I’d probably go straight to the re-flow. (test it first, make sure it isn’t ringy and that it’s to your satisfaction, then go from there.)
Thanks, then I’ll use a MTN-22DDm.
Versus using only thermal paste, what does reflowing the mcpcb to the pill result in? Better heat dissipation?
I had thought about the SST40 but wasn’t sure I’d be okay with the tint since I’m pretty firm on neutral tints only, and everyone seems to comment on how cold/bluish it is, interestingly just today I received my first SST40 light! (Jetbeam E20R). I wasn’t able to get outside with it tonight but inside it’s not too horrible, I don’t see any bluish tint at all, even on white walls, it looks very yellowish to me, with a hint of green.
I also plan to get the C8+ tan host version and run a MTN-17DDm so maybe the SST40 for it as well. I see Richard offers the Slice LED option, how’s the tint on it after slicing?
The SST-40 doesn’t exhibit the tint shift we’re used to seeing from Cree, it does drop some but not like the XM-L2’s. I’ve found the 40 to have a nice creamy color once the dome is taken off. Richard seals them though, so it’s a bit different than a naked die.
Does anybody know if the old bezel ring will fit to the new C8+?
I saw a picture of a C8+ with stainless bezel so yes.
But what about a nude gnu?
Thanks, curious though now to see that photo 
(no luck with google etc.)
Gnude Gnu’s haven’t been legalized for power use to date, not in the US anyway. Testing is underway to put them to work under AR confinement but the results are not in… Gnarly Gnude Gnu’s will be next. Mark my words. 
I only asked because you mentioned creamy colors and naked dies. :innocent:
Naked makes news, always!
Still though, it’s true, the XM-L2 U4 with a clean de-dome on it throws further and burns less current than a pushed XP-L HI, MaxToch found that out in the Shooter 2X.
Found it. It was in a facebook flashlight group.
Thanks Zozz, a small gap but it looks pretty good!
Put a thicker lens in it, increase the gap, and you’ve just effectively added a cooling fin.
With these updates to the Convoy line, I wonder if there’s going to be any changes or new colors to the M series of Convoy lights…
No idea if this video was posted already, but here it is. And my goodness it’s good looking… 
[video:]Convoy C8+ - YouTube
banggood claims 1100 lumens for this, i guess its their usual marketing and its not really true?
I look again and again. I think I like the old version better.
They should make more different than only it’s looks.
The clear coated Convoy C8 with 3A XP-L HI does 839 lumens @ 30 sec on high.
The Convoy store also claims “about 1100 lumens”, so it might be true. The output current is listed at 3000mA, which is higher than the previous Convoys that use 8x7135. So, it looks like they’re using a better driver.
If I had to guess, I’d say probably closer to 1000 lumens, but I wouldn’t rule out 1100.
Pretty sure the driver is made up consisting of 8x380mA 7135 chips, making it effectively a QLite (3.04A) So actual output depends greatly on the emitter choice you make when you order the light. A 1A tint will be higher than a 4C, for example. Just how it is. Relatively simple to stack a few chips for more power.