Finally got it after 5 weeks! Geez, this thing is heavy! If I didn’t know any better I would have thought it was stainless steel or something.
Overall nice though. Just more of a tank than expected.
Not super practical but I like it. I wanted the ti for the bling, the body knurling, and the bare metal.
About matches my opinion. Gorgeous light. Durable. SUPER-heavy. If I have it in a pocket I really feel it bouncing against my thigh. Not comfortable at all due to the weight.
Too bad the threads aren’t compatible with the aluminum version. I’d have loved to use the titanium tube with an aluminum head for less weight.
Also, I wish they came out with an aluminum tube with the square body knurling. Having knurling on the body is great, but its only available on the titanium version.
Danm! I just got the raw, with NW - XP-L HI V2 3A, 5000K, and titanium 18350 tube for what the base model went for before ($80)
She surely can’t blame me…right?
She can’t blame you if she doesn’t find out. Not that I’d advocate lying about it. But really, there are so many things to worry about, $21 doesn’t really rate, does it?
actually I saw the sale on another thread and jumped on it. :money_mouth_face:
(fyi the 25% off applies to the accessories also)
Is this sale still going on?
Yes, sale is still on. I broke down and bought one :person_facepalming:
Ordered one from Hank on 5/16 and it arrived today. Fast!
Jake,
I just bought the natural titanium D4 with the accessory 18350 tube and nichia emitters. It was an impulse buy, and I’ve decided I wanted the XPL Hi emitters instead. So I’m re-ordering the light in that emitter configuration, and I will be selling this one at a discount as soon as I return home and take some pictures (I’m currently on travel). It has never been carried, never dropped, and probably has only about 10 or 20 minutes of total play time on it. I’m still on the first battery charge.
I don’t know whether the Ti version loses “a couple hundred lumens” over the standard version, but I can say that this thing seems to put out three or four times as much light as my Zebralight SC600, which was until now the brightest I owned. The hot spot intensity seems similar, but the D4 is more like a hot “zone”, much much larger.
This is also the most attractive and best-machined flashlight I have ever owned. It’s like a piece of jewelry. I know I’ll wind up carrying the D4 instead of my SC600, because it’s smaller yet more powerful, but probably not until I find a protective pouch to fit it.
best regards,
Martin
Nav, when I look closely at my light shining on an even surface, I think I can detect the first stepdown at about 15 seconds of operation. The change is small, though. I never tried for more stepdown because the head was as hot as I wanted it to get. I’m fine with that factory setting, as I doubt I’d ever run full power longer than 5 or 10 seconds anyway.
best regards,
Martin
Being a Titanium fanatic and a bit of a copper freak, I had to get one of these. And of course, I had to mod it. I have Anduril in it with 20ga leads, bypassed driver spring and a copper button in place of the tail spring. Also swapped in the new Samsung LH351D emitters at 5000K 80 CRI. These fit under the optic quite nicely. Also adapted the Noctigon quad board so it could be screwed down, mine wasn’t and had no screws at all but that is remedied now. 
I put the knurled 18650 Ti tube on my black D1s, will keep the 18350 short tube on this D4Ti. On a dark purple Efest 18350 it makes a whopping 4067 lumens and the color is splendid! Floody wall of gorgeous light, a nice match for the Ti/Cu beauty.
With the 18650 tube on the D4Ti and a Sony VTC5A in the tube it is capable of 5500+ lumens. It is also capable of burning the fingers in a matter of seconds. Needless to say, it will stay in short tube configuration.
I like the fact that the Ti tube blankets the Li-ion cell, protecting it from excessive heat. The aluminum version allows the cell to get way too hot for my comfort. (My aluminum D4 is green, shorty, with XP-E2 green emitters. Yeah, it makes serious heat!)
Nice work Hank, love it! :heart_eyes:
Edit: Oh, by the way, the parts on my green aluminum D4 and D4Ti interchange with zero issues.
Dale,
I’m curious - since you have obviously taken this flashlight apart many times, can you confirm that it actually does have a glass lens over the plastic focusing optic? Reviews and specs all seem to say it does, but when I looked at the one I just bought I couldn’t tell. Sort of looked like the bare plastic surface.
best regards,
Martin
The three non Ti D4 that I have come with screwed on noctigon mcpcb. I’m surprised the Ti version did not come screwed down. 5500+ lumens in that little thing is insane.
AR coated glass lens, yes.
There were threaded screw holes in my D4Ti, just no screws. When I tried to put a pair of screws in it they shorted the MCPCB on the negative trace and the light was constant on. I used a diamond dremel tool in a small table top drill press to cut the trace away at the screw holes and now it works fine with it screwed down.
It must have been intended that the screws were left out of mine as the optic had all 4 legs intact. I snipped off two legs right at the point they would sit on the screws and all is well.
I was about to buy the SC600 IV hearing people say that the thing can maintain turbo for many minutes. However, from all of the lumen graphs I’ve seen, the light dips within a minute or maybe 2 max just like any other lights. Can you show me a test that shows the Zebralight can last 5 minutes. If so, I will buy one as I need an 18650 work EDC that can maintain 2000 lumens for 3+ minutes.
SKV89, a triple SST-40 will maintain 2000+ lumens easily for several minutes but I don’t know about the 18650 format. Possibly something like a triple SST-40 X6? I have an SupFire M6 and it does it easily, heat not a problem. It’s a decently small light but still not an EDC probably. Maybe a triple SST-40 built on a single 26650 frame format?
The new D4s might interest you, it’s a single 26650 with quad emitters, it might be capable and is not a very big light at all… brand new from Emisar and probably not released just yet but should be soon if it’s not already.
The soon to be available 21700 tube Sofirn C8F should also work well set up this way. I think XP-L2’s or the Samsung LH351D should make the lumens you’re after. (I mean, they’ll be coasting at 2000 lumens so they’ll last the time frame you specced. )
Edit: My D4Ti with Samsung LH351D emitters in shorty form makes right at 2000 lumens at the ramp ceiling as set by default in Anduril… but by a little over 1 1/2 minutes it’s pretty hot. The new larger D4s should be able to take it so I’d recommend waiting for this as it should really work well for you (with Anduril flashed and the ability to set ceiling levels and/or use stepped levels)
Actually I think those graphs are more accurate than my unscientific recollections.
The SC600 IV’s turbo output does dip, just not nearly as fast or as far as a D4.
My D4 Titanium on Turbo with a fresh Sony VTC5A inside sees its output dip from a peak of 4300 lumens to maybe 30 lumens in less than a minute. In the same period of time the SC600 IV is still hand-holdable and still seems to be producing a very respectable and useful turbo output.
If I hold a D4 in one hand and SC600 IV in the other and turn both on in turbo, the SC600 IV will be brighter by around 15 or 20 seconds in.
I have a Sofirn C8F with 3 XP-L HD emitters that, ramped to a little over 2000 lumens, is still making 2000 in 3 minutes and is warm to the point of being hot but still hand holdable with no issue. The Samsung 30Q was still up close to 4V after 3 minutes.