Olight S1 Mini High CRI and Utorch S1 Mini NW, now w N219b and E21A

regarding Utorch battery check, using 2 clicks at off

4 flashes is 4+ volts on my meter
3 flashes is 3.97 volts on my meter
2 flashes is 3.87 volts on my meter
1 flash is 3.77 volts on my meter

the Olight has no battery check, but it does turn on a red LED on its switch as a low battery indicator, at 3.39 volts.

The Utorch is fun to check, but the Olight Low Battery is automatic, so better for someone that is not actively playing with the Battery Monitor on the Utorch

In both cases the USB battery is protected anyway, so it will cut power, at about 2.7 volts.

I like your HAL, here is his distant cousin HALey

I was curious just how much green my brain and camera can tolerate and still be able to tell a Tomato from an Orange

as you can see, in real life with HALey Greene, I could still tell the fruits apart. I wonder if HAL Redman can also tell the difference? My guess is Yes :slight_smile:

Maratac AAA w 4000k N219b

and the Utorch as a wide beam headlamp

I dont care for the Olight S1 Mini High CRI beam as an indoor headlamp, too narrow and throwy, would be better for a bicycle light and outdoors.

If anybody wants to buy my Olight, $40 shipped conus, PM me.

Im really loving the big floody beam of the Utorch, and in actual use, the NW Low CRI with yellow tint, is not that noticeable. Whereas the Olight, every time I turn it on, its just too CW for me. Bear in mind Im sitting under 3000k incandescent at home. And I have a 3000K and 4000k Nichias in my Maratacs. I like Warm lights.

look at this 2000k Nichia in a Klarus Copper Mi1c by djozz, I want:

I would like a light that color in the wide beam AssPheric version, like the Utorch has.
I prefer the modes of the Utorch over the Klarus. And, unmodified, I prefer the NW option of the Utorch XPL, that Klarus does not offer afaik.

my newfound love for NW is going to make me consider a Ti S Mini too… when will it end?

unscrewed the Utorch bezel and removed the plastic fisheye lens to compare the beams

No Lens:

Yes Lens

LightHouse Selfie

Experimenting with a flat glass lens on the Utorch instead of the aspheric. The beam is cleaner with the glass lens, IF I do not install the shiny bezel. To my suprise, the bezel creates a small center hotspot, that I do not want. I may experiment with blacking out the bezel.

Utorch S1 Mini scores highest number of my desired features

[quote=jon_slider]
Utorch S1 Mini scores highest number of my desired features

Nicely made ! :+1:

A little mistake however: the Olight SMINI TI is NW…

thank you, very helpful, edited in the NW tag on the Ti S Mini, you are absolutely correct it was missing.

x2

thank you for the kind support
here btw is the complete feature set, including undesireable features like hold for off, just to inform, also added LED types. FWIW, the Klarus did not get marked as having sublumen, but they do have 1 lumen lows, almost sublumen

I believe on the Utorch that the black centering disk as well as the lens itself, once the bezel is screwed back on, pushes the MCPCB down so the thermal paste can do it’s work. If left without any downward pressure you might run the risk of burning it up if the MCPCB separates from the shelf and has no contact to it. Which it might do if bouncing around in a pocket or what not. I could be wrong but check it out. Don’t want anything giving you the smoke of death or anything. :slight_smile:

Awesome comparisons by the way.

I also picked up the S1A Cu after the S1 mini Cu I got from you and the S1 mini Ti I snatched up. Really liking the extra length of the AA light for my somewhat large and clumsy hands.

Take care my friend.

Todd
Thank you for the safety warning, and for introducing me to the Utorch, it’s been a real eye-opener. I will not run the Utorch S1 Mini NW, without the lens on it again :-).

The Utorch just landed in Texas_Ace’s mailbox today. Its getting an n219b 9080. I hope it works!:slight_smile:

Congrats on your Cu S1a, instant classic!

I had a titanium S Mini in my Shopping cart at illumn.com today but decided not to pull the trigger because S Mini have no low battery indicator.

So then i put an Olight S1 Mini in my cart instead.
My buy it now finger was twitching madly but I managed to quell it before it landed on the button. I did not want the Cool White model.

Code blacknovember worked for both lights. 30% off always tempts me.

I tend to buy more lights when I’m waiting for lights to get to me in the mail.
My wallet thinks I need Real Therapy, not Real TiTherapy

Dont tell my wallet about the two other Utorch i ordered on flash sale. Theyre in the mail to Bali for Nichia swaps.

Im building a menage a trois Nichia Utorch
2000k, 3000k, 4000k

Wish the olights would play w Nichia, the olight UI is so much better.

Awesome, I bet that 219 will look phenomenal in that Utorch.

I understand about the wallet. I really need to slow down on my purchases. I only have 3 more coming in the mail and haven’t ordered anything lately. Although, I was looking at that Eagletac D25A with the 219 in it. Then again I really want a Klarus Mi7 Ti too. I don’t know.

Think I will behave myself for awhile.

Looking forward to some beam shots when you get those lights back. I hear TA is one of the best so i’m sure you won’t be disappointed.

In Olight S1 Mini High CRI and Utorch S1 Mini NW, now w N219b and E21A - #18 by jon_slider
the lines Tir, aspheric, reflector are double.

thank you joechina, I think its fixed now, much appreciate your help

fwiw, my Olight S1 Mini that went to Texas is on its way home to me, with an N219b 9080… pics of the new beam tint to follow

and btw, for anyone interested in the High CRI N219b 9080, Clemence is having one last sale before they become part of flash History… you can buy them here:

Just got my Utorch S1 Mini back from Texas_Ace who did a mod to sw45 9080… Woohoo!

before
xpl NW my meter 0.2 - 4- 66 - 445/234@1 min

after
sw 45 9080 my meter 0.1 - 2.5 - 37 - 220/116@1 min

Congrats on the light.

Do you really need a minus green filter with that SW40?

I like it better with the filter, makes it less yellow.
The SW40 had a yellow cast, otoh the SW45 has a purple cast (and is WAY more pink too)
In the evening I find the SW45 cooler than necessary, otoh, during the day the SW45 is not too warm, for me.

I plan to get another Utorch S1 Mini modded to SW40 9080… that will take a while, the light is headed for Bali :slight_smile:

Maybe I should order myself some minus green filter to play with. Bali, I can guess to wich member than :+1:

Lee filters are fun to experiment with… here are my notes where to buy, etc


http://shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm

For heat concerns, Lee makes a Zircon line that is heat resistant:

The 802 Zircon Minus Green reduces lumens by 25, that would be closest to the 1/2 minus Green, that reduces by 28

Lee 248 Half minus green: 71.5%
Zircon 802: 75%

Zircon 803: 79.9%
Lee 249 -Quarter minus green : 81.5%
Zircon 804: 83.6%

Zircon 805: 86.6%
Lee 279 -Eighth minus green : 87.2%

Discussed here

the values I find useful, for each CCT, and what they cost in brightness

Examples of with and without Lee on a pair of sm303 9050

Thnx! Will look into it.