Since I already have 20700A cells, I’m still undecided whether I should just buy 21700s, or just use it with 20700As. I do not like buying excessive amounts of cells if I already have a bunch of almost new ones.
These are based on the Samsung 40T 30A rated cells.
Apparently, they are legit and ship to Canada, but I think I’m just going to stick with using my Sanyo NCR20700A cells, and not buy any 21700s, for now anyway.
14A is a lot of current after all, and other parts of the light are going to offer higher resistance if the springs are bypassed with thick 18AWG wire.
That is why I don’t really want double switch. The clicky will add resistance and maybe melting down under those high currents. I know Dale has plenty lights without problems but I had a triple Nichia VG10 with 15A current and it melted the switch completely.
Cool that they went with the 21700, this will possibly be my first 21700 flashlight, so now I have to find someone who’d ship a 21700 cell to my country
My suggestion for UI: run Andúril!
My plan B suggestion for UI:
click from off to turn on at minimum
hold from off to turn on at memory (doesn’t memorize moonlight, turbo or blinkies)
hold from on to turn off
click from on to change modes, modes should be Moonlight >low >medium>high (highest possible with no septdown) > turbo (highest possible, stepdown to high or medium)
There is the Sunway store link I provided earlier. Apparently, using Turkey Post allows to circumvent easily and legally lithium ion shipping regulations: https://sunway.aliexpress.com/store/3173029
Also, Banggood ships 18650s everywhere now! I can even order 21700s cells now from Banggood in Canada:
Not just that, but any make/break cycle will go melting off little bits of the contact. That’s a danger for any high-current light with a clicky, but moreso if you’re throwing a 21700 at it going full-tilt.
And with each pit that forms, resistance starts sneaking up higher and higher, a teeny tiny little bit at a time.
Something like (Lexel’s?) FET-switch would be a good way to go.
Not sure if it was mentioned but with this new cell people are going to want to try play around with emitters I imagine. Can you see if they will make a 32mm mcpcb fit without filing? LED4Power has some 32mm 4040 boards coming out and 32mm 5050 options exist too but are hard to find.
Yes but it already comes with that and it is only one footprint and I have a feeling they are not going to make a custom 30mm board just for modders in other footprints.
I would like to use Luxeon V since 32mm 4040 mcpcb is in the making. If a good boost driver ever gets to be public I would like to try 3x XHP something.2 but those require new mcpcb also. Part of my reasoning for wanting a more standard pcb size.
That’s odd Zozz, I have used mini Omten switches easily up over 21A with 4 Nichia 219C’s without a problem. Didn’t melt a mini Omten til I hit 32A. Are you sure you didn’t have a short? That’s about the only way I’ve found to melt an Omten without ridiculous amperage.
I built the first Triple Eagle Eye X6 using a Ledil CUTE-3, several years back now, and have built dozens and dozens of triples and quads. The switch was never an issue.
That happens too, the cheap ones don’t have any writing on them, the Omten’s always say Omten. I bought a handful of switch assemblies from Simon (? I think) that were the spring and switch already on the board, makes it easy to put in a better switch if/when necessary. Pretty cheap, no reason not to have some on hand if you mod lights.