Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

There is the Sunway store link I provided earlier. Apparently, using Turkey Post allows to circumvent easily and legally lithium ion shipping regulations:
https://sunway.aliexpress.com/store/3173029

Also, Banggood ships 18650s everywhere now! I can even order 21700s cells now from Banggood in Canada:

Not just that, but any make/break cycle will go melting off little bits of the contact. That’s a danger for any high-current light with a clicky, but moreso if you’re throwing a 21700 at it going full-tilt.

And with each pit that forms, resistance starts sneaking up higher and higher, a teeny tiny little bit at a time.

Something like (Lexel’s?) FET-switch would be a good way to go.

Not sure if it was mentioned but with this new cell people are going to want to try play around with emitters I imagine. Can you see if they will make a 32mm mcpcb fit without filing? LED4Power has some 32mm 4040 boards coming out and 32mm 5050 options exist too but are hard to find.

They do sell a 30mm triple MCPCB though made specifically for the C8F:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/C8F-DTP-Copper-MCPCB-30MM-Direct-thermal-path-for-triple-LED-diodes/2933049_32847291392.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.7a26301ds1gqUv

Yes but it already comes with that and it is only one footprint and I have a feeling they are not going to make a custom 30mm board just for modders in other footprints.

Ooh okay.

I try ask them to sell more MCPCB types.

What emitters are you guys going to try on this? I’m thinking XP-L2 and 319A seems like the best options.

Samsung LH351Bs 3000k with a regular 3A driver.

Would make for a nice everyday light, especially with a diffuser.

I would like to use Luxeon V since 32mm 4040 mcpcb is in the making. If a good boost driver ever gets to be public I would like to try 3x XHP something.2 but those require new mcpcb also. Part of my reasoning for wanting a more standard pcb size.

That’s odd Zozz, I have used mini Omten switches easily up over 21A with 4 Nichia 219C’s without a problem. Didn’t melt a mini Omten til I hit 32A. Are you sure you didn’t have a short? That’s about the only way I’ve found to melt an Omten without ridiculous amperage.

I built the first Triple Eagle Eye X6 using a Ledil CUTE-3, several years back now, and have built dozens and dozens of triples and quads. The switch was never an issue.

Maybe it was not a genuine omten just a cheap 1288 copy

That happens too, the cheap ones don’t have any writing on them, the Omten’s always say Omten. I bought a handful of switch assemblies from Simon (? I think) that were the spring and switch already on the board, makes it easy to put in a better switch if/when necessary. Pretty cheap, no reason not to have some on hand if you mod lights.

That melting was a year ago. Now I have a pack of them. And also switches unsoldered.

Any ETA when 21700 host will be available? Thanks!

Something that should be said to keep it up front for new modders… when soldering a switch to the pcb it’s imperative to heat sink the metal tab, lock onto it with hemostats or tweezers or needle nosed pliers (between your solder joint and the plastic switch), however you can grab it but grab it with something right there at the junction of the switch housing. The metal tab will conduct heat into the plastic case and can melt something internally and your new switch is an old switch in the blink of an eye! (bad, in other words)

It’s easier to remove a switch from the pcb and re-install it after a spring is bypassed than to do a good bypass job with the switch in place… the via’s on the positive pad will conduct heat up into the plastic switch body and melt plastic that will ooze through the via’s themselves, switch is probably ruined at that point as well.

Food for thought…

Yep, that is how I do it, remove the switch with a swift solder action, do all the stuff to the switchboard that needs to be done, and last resolder the switch, again quick, as short as possible contact of the solder iron with the switch tabs. And even then for every switch that I solder in I use up 1.5 switches because I’m often not quick enough and something inside half-melts (with the Omten 1288 you can feel that the clicking has gone or has become less smooth).

Great news!

I vote for selling the switch cap separately if it’s not too costly.

Hold the tab up close to the plastic body Jos, the tweezers or needle nosed pliers will heat sink the tab and prevent the melting of the plastic. :wink: No switches lost, no time wasted…

I just keep a big box of 1288’s ready in case I loose one :stuck_out_tongue: