Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

They do sell a 30mm triple MCPCB though made specifically for the C8F:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/C8F-DTP-Copper-MCPCB-30MM-Direct-thermal-path-for-triple-LED-diodes/2933049_32847291392.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.7a26301ds1gqUv

Yes but it already comes with that and it is only one footprint and I have a feeling they are not going to make a custom 30mm board just for modders in other footprints.

Ooh okay.

I try ask them to sell more MCPCB types.

What emitters are you guys going to try on this? I’m thinking XP-L2 and 319A seems like the best options.

Samsung LH351Bs 3000k with a regular 3A driver.

Would make for a nice everyday light, especially with a diffuser.

I would like to use Luxeon V since 32mm 4040 mcpcb is in the making. If a good boost driver ever gets to be public I would like to try 3x XHP something.2 but those require new mcpcb also. Part of my reasoning for wanting a more standard pcb size.

That’s odd Zozz, I have used mini Omten switches easily up over 21A with 4 Nichia 219C’s without a problem. Didn’t melt a mini Omten til I hit 32A. Are you sure you didn’t have a short? That’s about the only way I’ve found to melt an Omten without ridiculous amperage.

I built the first Triple Eagle Eye X6 using a Ledil CUTE-3, several years back now, and have built dozens and dozens of triples and quads. The switch was never an issue.

Maybe it was not a genuine omten just a cheap 1288 copy

That happens too, the cheap ones don’t have any writing on them, the Omten’s always say Omten. I bought a handful of switch assemblies from Simon (? I think) that were the spring and switch already on the board, makes it easy to put in a better switch if/when necessary. Pretty cheap, no reason not to have some on hand if you mod lights.

That melting was a year ago. Now I have a pack of them. And also switches unsoldered.

Any ETA when 21700 host will be available? Thanks!

Something that should be said to keep it up front for new modders… when soldering a switch to the pcb it’s imperative to heat sink the metal tab, lock onto it with hemostats or tweezers or needle nosed pliers (between your solder joint and the plastic switch), however you can grab it but grab it with something right there at the junction of the switch housing. The metal tab will conduct heat into the plastic case and can melt something internally and your new switch is an old switch in the blink of an eye! (bad, in other words)

It’s easier to remove a switch from the pcb and re-install it after a spring is bypassed than to do a good bypass job with the switch in place… the via’s on the positive pad will conduct heat up into the plastic switch body and melt plastic that will ooze through the via’s themselves, switch is probably ruined at that point as well.

Food for thought…

Yep, that is how I do it, remove the switch with a swift solder action, do all the stuff to the switchboard that needs to be done, and last resolder the switch, again quick, as short as possible contact of the solder iron with the switch tabs. And even then for every switch that I solder in I use up 1.5 switches because I’m often not quick enough and something inside half-melts (with the Omten 1288 you can feel that the clicking has gone or has become less smooth).

Great news!

I vote for selling the switch cap separately if it’s not too costly.

Hold the tab up close to the plastic body Jos, the tweezers or needle nosed pliers will heat sink the tab and prevent the melting of the plastic. :wink: No switches lost, no time wasted…

I just keep a big box of 1288’s ready in case I loose one :stuck_out_tongue:

Dale/Djozz thanks for these tips on (not) melting switches, didn’t know.

So for the safe bypass:

1. Remove the switch first - with heat sink pliers clamped on tab near switch body.
2. Do all bypass work
3. Replace the switch - with heat sink pliers clamped on tab near switch body.

Sound right?

Yep, you’ll avoid a lot of melted switches that way.

I found some curved jaw 5” mosquito hemostats on ebay for cheap, a vet clinic was selling them off after buying new equipment. (ran em through the sterilizer before selling of course) I got 3 pairs of em as this size and shape is my main tool on the bench, the ends are fine enough to use on these switches and they work great for unscrewing retaining rings.

I’ve just tried it out on my S42, and on my C8, and it worked wonders actually!

Thanks for the advice of using mostquito hemostats! Are these better than snap ring pliers?