I try to warm up but except oring there is second oring, glass And switch.
To change the driver there is no need to twist off bezel.
I guess I got lucky with the MF02 I received, it came off with just 2 hands using rubber BBQ gloves in a padded vice. It fought all the way, and there was some type of thread locker, it wasn’t blue or red, kind of yellow/clear looking. Having 2 Drag Bikes and a Hot Rod Harley I use both Blue and Red Loctite more then the average Joe and I know the look/smell of the stuff very well, this stuff on the MF02 I had was neither?
It might be the way they are Torquing the bezel on, the amount of torque used, initially that makes it soo hard to break, once it was broke loose it still was a beast to thread off.
MF02 as far as I know
first blue stuff, very soft, easy to open
then some weird white stuff ahrder to open
I used 140-150°C on red locktite lights and my clamping adapters
Here is shown how a XHP70.2 is DD driven I would not recommend it
left original GT calculation;
middle 50mOhm resistor mod pushing the original driver over the rated specs, Input capacitors should be doubled
regulation can break down as the minimum ripple not met with 10uH Inductor,
right my driver with proper sized upgraded parts
New generation of MOSFETs with 1/3 the conduction and half the switching losses,
2.2uH for proper ripple current and less losses on it,
reduced voltage divider to get the sense resistor smaller,
better diode 20A instead 3A
Its possible to push the original to 5 max 6A, but changing R14 to 12kOhms and adding at least 20-30uF input capacitors
I would no go beyond 7A with the LED its not worth it
Just today I contemplated how far do I think XHP70.2 deserves to be driven.
My answer (based on the same chart) was 12A.
yes 12V 6A or 6V 12A is a conservative choice getting tons of output with moderate efficiency
I sold some drivers and people decided after seeing this test to go for 6A when their first wanted 8 or even 9A @12V
Hallo, ich brauche einen Treiber für die BLF GT —XHP 70.2—.Hat noch jemand einen zu verkaufen
.Ich komme auch aus Deutschland (Hessen).Liebe Grüße Andy
Oh, so you meant 7A 12V. That’s a good number.
I’m sorry to ask another question, but is there a 4S BLF Q8 driver that can buck down to 3V LED voltages that you buily?
Would be quite nice if that were the case.
4S buck down to 3V would be pretty expensive and 4 layer board, no sense doing it
But 4S to 4 XPL LEDs in series or 4 XHP35s, for that case I have drivers
12V 7A
Ah okay then. Does your buck driver support 4S buck down to 6V then?
That would be great. If not, I’ll just get the regular 3 channel TA driver for the Q8.
But the current is limited always the same, so on 6V the output would be needed to use 2 buck circuits on one board I made such a layout, but its not cheap to make with 26€
Oh okay then. Thanks anyway.
I’ll try to find out how to 4S the emitters with the stock 1S MCPCB, and get myself a 4S tailcap. You do sell it a 4S tailcap if I understand? Or is it only for the MF01/02?
I have a tail cap board for the Q8 with 2 or 4S
Oh OK then. Thank you again Lexel.
Hello, I’m interested too.
I don’t think that price sounds unreasonable for a driver like that. I would be interested in a driver for 5s, 6s, 8s. Higher voltage is fine for the projects I have in mind. Some of the light builds I am considering are as high as 14s.
I have added a link to to this thread in my new BLFGT video as well. If I had know about this driver before I would have included it as an option in the video.
Powerful buck for 36V COB is planned with up to 12S and 5-6A output, above we have to consider how to get proper input MLCCs not cheap in 100V,
also LDOs in more than 60V and fast enough MOSFET above 50(60V rated) is an issue
Nothing speaks against Endermans quad buck driver design I made with just 2-4 circuits equipped, if mounted flsat to a heatsink as it is designed
So I found today a very odd problem with the LM3409 Buck driver
Its related to the voltage regulator, it seems in this case 10 Ohms resistor was to big get the LDO in a stable regulation,
it had a voltage drop over C1 from 16 to 10.5V, which is very bad, the resistor should decouple battery and LDO input voltage from spikes,
but the battery side looked pretty clean while the LDO side had every 20ms a big drop from the LDO probably resetting
output voltage had about 1.4V ripple on about 70% of the ramping very low working fine, then at a level it started
resulting in an unstable max. current as the current control voltage was not stable at 5V
Replacing the LDO and trying to solve probably capacitor issues replacing them as well did not help
I lowered R1 from 10 to 4.7Ohms this cleared all ripple on the LDOs input and output side
I recommend if you can solder SMD to do this on all drivers add a 10 Ohms resistor above R1
I am interested in a MF02 driver with battery boards and springs, my stock driver failed. 