What did you mod today?

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-X3-
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I have them in my 2 SR-mini and they still are the best CREE for ambient lighting

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

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khas
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I have one in a Skilhunt H02 with a Lexel build TA driver with NarsilM, one in a Eagle Eye X7 I bought from a friendly modder here on BLF Wink , a triple UniqueFire UF-1408 with a MTN-22DDm driver, and when led4power puts the new Q8 MCPCB up for sale I will put some in a Q8.

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Oh and they are a really good option in Olight S baton series behind their unique TIR (which doesn’t like 3535 LED at all…)
I put some in my S2, S2R, S1R, S1A…

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

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Got a red sofirn SP10B today for my daughter, real nice light for the 10 dollars with a great moonlight mode. Put a 4000k 219c in it and also in my D25c ti.

-X3-
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Put some LH351D’s in some lights.
The first one was my Emisar D1… and the LED didn’t like the Turbo mode AT ALL… it turned blue Sad
Maybe my reflowing wasn’t really well done…

Fortunately, the other three are in more reasonable configurations :

From left to right : S2+ Biscotti 8*7135, Utorch UT01, Lumintop Tool AA Biscotti 5*7135
The far right is my T10 with 219B

I really like the tint and CRI of these little gems… I have to buy more when they’re available

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

Billy X
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BlueSwordM
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@X3, yep that is was probably happened. Bad reflow job. The LH351D is a bit tougher of an LED compared to the XPL HI, so should not have turned blue.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
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khas
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X3 wrote:
Put some LH351D’s in some lights.
The first one was my Emisar D1… and the LED didn’t like the Turbo mode AT ALL… it turned blue Sad
Maybe my reflowing wasn’t really well done…

I have the same experience with the single LH351D no matter how careful I reflow they turn blue. The four I reflowed and put in my D4 didn’t change color.

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Do you use Lexel’s suggest about 1°/sec temperature raise speed?

khas
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I use a hot air reflow gun slowly raising the temperature, if it 1°/sec I don’t know Smile

Maybe I am not careful enough, but I don’t have the same issue with other emitters.

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Thats simple, if it takes near 200 sec it is ok, if less than two minutes this is too fast.
Not only about samsung, we heard many issues with xhp 50.2 for same reason.

djozz
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kiriba-ru wrote:
Thats simple, if it takes near 200 sec it is ok, if less than two minutes this is too fast.
Not only about samsung, we heard many issues with xhp 50.2 for same reason.

Is it proven that the XHP50.2 issues are caused by not following the correct reflow timings? I did not know that. I even have not seen any evidence of not following the correct reflow timing having an effect on any led performance. I’m not saying that there is no effect, but at least I have never seen it demonstrated.

I have a XHP50.2 dying in a flashlight with a Kaidomain 3A boost driver, and I have a XHP50.2 living a happy life at 5+ amps in a driver-less 2×18650 flashlight. Both leds were reflowed by me at the correct temperature but nowhere near the correct timing. Instead of a reflow effect, my feeling is that that KD driver causes some sort of peaks that especially the XHP50.2 is sensitive to, while in direct drive there is no such sudden load. But it is just a feeling based on just two leds, I have no hard evidence.

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I cant make any long-time conclutions, I just dont have enought equipment for tests. I would prefer to ask maukka and Lexel.

thijsco19
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thijsco19 wrote:

This convoy L2 had previously a XPL-HI and fet driver in it. The tailcap current was, if I remember correctly, around 4A.
It is now around 5.5A. Not as high as I had hoped as I used the 9A version of the LD-B4 so I was expecting some higher current.
I use a Basen 4500 mAh 26650 in it, they supposed to be decent performers. Even with a other keeppower 26650 and some other 18650 cells I didn’t get any higher than 5A.

Nevertheless. I really Love the 4000K tint of the luxeon V!!


Received the uni-t ut210e clampmeter couple days ago.
Measured the tailcap current again today. Used a 22 gauge silicon wire, it was probably a little bit too long though.

Measured 7 amps, that makes more sense. Still a little bit on the lower side but for that I blame the cell I used and the longer wire.

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I use 12Ga Turnigy wire for my loop with the Uni-T clamp meter. I think it’s 6” long, soldered gold plated banana clips on each end.

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I use this, before use everytime I sand the contact surfaces:

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Glutton for punishment! Silly

contactcr
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A little late to the party but I had a threesome and put my D’s all over the place:


Samsung LH351D’s of course, 4000K 90CRI.

Jaxman E2L (left)
FET+N+1 Bistro HD
~3300lm at startup

Thorfire TK15 (right)
SMO reflector gives the 351D a little bit of a hotspot and no more egg yolk from XPL2. Still some slight rings like any SMO but the tint is even.
Side note: Thorfire must be using some of the highest melting point solder on the planet…

Ultratac K18 Mini (top)
Pulled the XPG2 out of this 10180 light
Makes ~12lm on low and ~125lm on high
It’s no CRX light but I really like this light now. It has TWO ways I can lock it out, mechanical and eswitch and a really nice floody beam. I’m going to remove the Manker LAD from my keychain now and see how this holds up. I’ll trade the lower output for not having my pants randomly lighting up.

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Contactcr’s wife…. “ He was so happy to see me when I got home from work he positively GLOWED!” Big Smile

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To check out the new 4040+5050 Q8 ledboard that led4power has made and kindly sent to me without charge (including 4 Luxeon V leds Thumbs Up ), I modded my last unmodded Q8 with Luxeon V leds.

The dimensions of the l4p Q8 board are exactly the same of the stock board so it was no surprise that it fitted without problem. Only difference is that with the double footprint there is no space for the two small holes on the side, so the board can not be screwed down by the two M2.5 screws. Instead the board should be fixed like I did here, sandwiched between reflector and shelf (as shown and discussed before in the interest list thread for this board).

It was quite a pain to ream all 4 plastic centerpieces to fit the Luxeon V leds, but I got it done and the leds are centered pretty good.

I made an effort to reduce the already small resistances of the Q8 further, most significantly I bypassed the tail springs and cleaned all electrical contact surfaces. I replaced the stock ledwires with slightly longer ones (still 18 AWG).

The beam that I get is very nice and smooth without obvious tint shifts, I think even a bit nicer than the stock beam, but I have no stock Q8 left to directly compare them. (If you are really nitpicking, on a white wall the corona is slightly yellow and around the corona is a faint blueish ring. This however is very remote from anything you will notice in actual use)

The highest output with the stock XP-L leds that I measured was 6200 (djozz-) lumen. But that was not with fully bypassed springs but with phosfor bronze springs, I estimate 6500 lumen with bypassed springs. This Luxeon V modded Q8 does 7500 lumen (30 seconds, 30Q batteries). At start-up it is 8000 lumen and it takes minutes to get under 7000 lumen.

7500 lumen, great beam profile, nice tint: this mod is a succes, and the l4p Q8 board works as planned. Smile

MRsDNF
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Nice mod djozz and a nice improvement in output to boot. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Some brass goodness today. Another upgrade to the CRX 18350 brass triple Nichia.

I installed a new brass & 14mm glass topped switch cover with green tritium vial.
Previously the light had a rubber boot.

Length - 72 mm
Width - 22 mm
Weight - 104g (with cell)
Max around – 2100lm OTFAluminium jacket.

 

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You are to much CRX. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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I wasn’t happy with the rubber boot as it was just a little bit harder to access the tail switch since I put the magnets in.
Much better now, I think that’s about all I can do to this light. Next… LOL

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Here’s mine, far beyond CRX’s mod Big Smile

I just can do a LED swap on Novatac 120T Party

CRX
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Smile

Cool, looks brighter. Did you have to file an MCPCB into a cross shape or use another method?

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I modded a floodlight by swapping out the original cool white LED with the (supposedly) 90 CRI, 5000k CCT I bought from alibaba for use as an improvised desk lamp.

Modding in action. The original LED (bottom right) is 20w where the new one (wired) is 30w. I’m actually under-driving the one I used for replacement, but that’s okay. 20w is plenty bright for an improvised desk lamp.

Some cactus shot under the modded light. Does this looks like 90 CRI to you?

The LED used for modding. I had 4 of them in my possession. One used in this project, three to go.

 

Searching for High CRI leds since 2010...

 

Has finally gotten to the bottom after 10 years of delving deep into that rabbit hole of them high CRI lights...

 

High CRI, high quality lights doesn't need to be expensive, or is it?

 

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Installed LD-A4 driver (3A version) in Jaxman E3 219C 4000K.

Album with pictures

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CRX wrote:
Smile

Cool, looks brighter. Did you have to file an MCPCB into a cross shape or use another method?

I’m using normal 16-17mm MCPCB and solder short wires to the driver contact.

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Replaced the XHP35 in the Thrunite Catapult V6 with a 3A 5000K 5A 4000K XHP50.2 (12V) to see how the larger emitter would work in a throwy reflector.

From 3 ft – XHP35 Original on Left/Before, XHP50.2 swapped on the Right/After
With the XHP50.2 the beam is wider and slightly less intense as anticipated.

From 50 ft
The effect of the XHP50.2 emitter being larger and HD rather than HI.

Brightness intensity at the hotspot was less because the XHP50.2 is a larger emitter and it definitely no longer throws as far but at medium range is quite bright (perhaps even brighter?). I think I like the results and will probably keep as is.

(Edit – replaced photos with 4000K tint XHP50.2, the first 5000K one had issues on turbo and eventually died Sad

Seeking the light.

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