Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps?

The only thing I can think of is unscrewing the driver retaining ring around the green button, look inside, then retighten. It is a reverse thread. Maybe this will make the driver get better contact.

If that doesn’t work I would have them replace it.

thank you, I tried it before, it didn’t work, now I retried with a better tool and it worked :slight_smile:

:)… Glad to hear you fixed it .
I was happy with my soup can size R2’s …But now you guys had to show off your new headlamps huh ?I found a big rubberized magnet that had a peel and stick …double stuck it to the flat end of the R2 ( it looks like it was made for it.)
At $6-$7 I bought a handful and use a couple not as a headlamp but rather as an area light .Got one stuck to the range hood over the stove and another buried in an amateurish paracord jumble . I’ve been on a little bit of a headlamp buying spree and am ever so grateful that you guys make me have to buy yet another Boruit. The fact it has no nasty low PWM and is moddable makes this light very attractive …

Finally got a couple ordered, thanks for all the info and modding tips.
Had been looking for stuff to add to the order because the last time I ordered there was all kinds of cool stuff at great prices.
Haven’t been on aliexpress for a while and since joining BLF I’ve really gotten spoiled by the great deals offered in the forums, so just the headlamps.

Finally pulled the trigger :slight_smile: But noticed when I used a paypal option it charged me an extra buck. .I think it came to $11.90 instead of $10.88 . Whatever …I wanted the light and a silly added fee wasn’t going to slow me down .
I need extra cheap headlamps in case someone wants to “borrow it ”.
Thanks for the heads up on this headlamp

A week later and they’re in the mailbox? Amazing!
I’ve got both of them charging and will see where they terminate. One will go straight to work, the other will get an emitter mod and be used around here.
So far it looks like the value far exceeds the price, this has to be a loss leader in the pursuit of building their brand and reputation.
Nice that they hid the strobes, the nice slow beacon may have some utility, faster one probably not.
Hope I’m never in a situation where I’m wearing a headlamp flashing a few hundred lumens at 6hz or whatever it is.
Man, I love flashlights but headlamps are the bomb when you’re doing anything with your hands.
THanks again!

I just did a few tests on this light using the JoshK sphere.

With a 30Q on high I got right at 650 lumen. Pretty impressive and very close to XM-L2 output.

With a 60° TIR lens in place I lost about 23% output. So now it’s reading about 500 lumen.

Something is wrong with your measurements. On the TIR lens, the light loss should be less than on the reflector.

Nope. Why so you think this?

Because On the TIR lens, the light loss should be less than on the reflector. The loss on the reflector is more than 10-15, the loss on the TIR lens is from 3-5.
In my case, the variants with TIR lenses produced 5-10% more light than the reflector.
And this is normal, it should be so.

Oh, I realized what the problem might be. Charge the battery and try again;)

And yet: after three minutes in the turbo mode, stepdown is turned on. This could not affect the measurements?

I’m yet to see non-AR coated lens with 95% efficiency. Let alone 97%. And AR-coated TIRs are extremely rare (for reasons that are unknown to me)
Quick examples:
Carclo 10199 is 82.5-91.8% efficient depending on LED
Carclo 10507 is 84.4-94% efficient depending on LED

Cheap alu reflector is 85% reflective. Let’s say that 2/3 of light hits it. This varies a bit. But 2/3 gives 90% overall efficiency. Add a cheap AR-coated lens in the front and that’s 87.3% total efficiency.

Umm, because they’re “total internal reflection” lenses? :laughing:

Seriously, it’d be hard to bulk AR-coat just the front surface and mask the rest of the lens. AR-coating the sides/back would be like poking holes in a bucket…

With reflectors, a lot of front-firing light just shoots out all over the place as spill, not really contributing to usable light.

With a TIR lens, almost all of the light is captured, and ideally would be focused to the hotspot with little wasted spill. The only problem (that depends on the type/shape/size of the LED) is that light at the extremes, eg, the corners of the chip, is sufficiently off-center that it might not hit at the critical angle or less, so ends up escaping vs being reflected back into the lens and directed out front.

A perfectly point-source LED chip would get close to “100%” efficiency, minus losses passing through the medium.

Nope, AR coating doesn’t change refraction angle. And so it doesn’t change the total internal reflection angle.
It just adds a layer (or several) with refraction index between that of air and of glass.
What happens with light that tries to escape glass at angle that would reflect off air when it hits AR coating layer instead?
2 cases:

  • either the angle is so high that it reflects anyway (but an angle that’s different from the one of uncoated)
  • or not, it just refracts

In the second case, the light hits air at much steeper angle and reflects. Then hits glass and refracts. Overall it travels at the same angle as if there would be no coating, but is shifted slightly.

I get what you’re saying, but something I remember reading a while ago about coatings on camera-lens glass, why some pieces are coated and others aren’t, seemed to imply that the coating did change the angle.

I found my measurement results. Indeed, with 21 mm TIR luminous flux falls relative to the reflector. probably due to the fact that part of the lens is overlapped by the edge of the bezel.

My numbers (these are not lumens, my sphere is not calibrated!)

17 mm TIR with glass - 412
Reflector with glass - 399
Reflector with glass ang 3M Magic scotch - 381
21 мм TIR without glass - 346

TIR lenses are not all the same. Some are narrow focus and clear and might have less losses than a reflector. Some are wide focus and might be frosted or textured and have more losses than a reflector.

For my head mounted lights, I use this 60° textured lens.

I do get some losses, but it’s no big deal. All my headlights are more than bright enough to compensate since they are for close up work anyway.

On this particular test I think I estimated the output drop using a different light.

So just to make sure I use the same headlamp and battery and then switch out the 60° TIR (including factory lens) with the original reflector I tested it again.

I also used my TA Tube lumen tester with a .65 .68 correction factor (this should be the correct one). I also used a fresh off the charger 30Q battery.

With reflector - 689 720 lumen
With TIR lens - 526 550 lumen

So we have a loss of 23.6% in output

I did the same measurements using two Eagle Eye X2R and got slightly less drops in output by switching to the 60 degree TIR lens. One light measured 18.5% and the other 20%.

All of these lights use the factory glass lens so the only thing that changed was the reflector for a plastic TIR optic.

Just got mine last night and am very happy with it. But it was so cheap so I thought I would try another one.

I like the style of the Skilhunt headlamp so I threw the similar looking Boruit EFL0867 in the cart. I will probably get some use out of it especially since my wife asked if she good keep the EHL0628 on her nightstand. I should of got 2 EHL0628’s. I also shoud have paid more attention to the modes, High/Middle/Strobe. This is what I saw…Switch Mode:High/Middle/Low. It is uncomfortable to read with and would destroy your night vision while camping. In conclusion I would recommend avoiding this one:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BORUiT-1000LM-XPL-V5-LED-Headlamp-Flashlight-3-Mode-Waterproof-Headlight-Camping-Hunting-Head-Torch-by/32829179112.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.29454c4dHsCX1Z

I see it spending most of its life in a drawer. If only it had Narsil UI it would be my new edc just be wearing a headlight at all times everywhere

edit-should have, not should of

s.-Sorry if I am way off the thread topic but I wanted to add I’ve been playing with
ELF0867. About 6 fast clicks from off turns it into a one function light just Med. Which
makes it more usable IMHO

ps. 3rd time is a charm right? Again sorry for being off topic, but I have to correct what
I previously said. 6 fast clicks puts the light in a weird mode. One click lights the red
switch only. 2nd click puts it in weird dim-brighten-dim-brighten…Is my battery failing?
What the hell mode.

I have 6 different types of diffuser film I’m selling these days and none of them plays well with this reflector .maybe it’s the emitter /reflector combo IDK .As a mule Dc-Fix works fine just not with the reflector .
iIm going to drop in a Samsung h351D anyway so i’ll let you know if it’s the reflector or the emitter .

I bought this light thinking it was a stepless ramping like the boruit R2 has with no PWM .
It’s NOT a smooth stepless ramping light . It JUMPS thru modes when you hold the button down . Chinese descriptions are never very helpful and like garrybunk says . the User interface is a bit hard to describe . it’s really rather simple and it doesn’t deserve all the stupid hate it received from members here on this thread (all of which don’t own the light ) user interface isn’t a smooth ramp and …doesn’t suck .

I love the light and think besides the Skillhunt H03 this is one of the best cheap headlamps out there .

I had ordered 2 and have been using one at work with great success. Don’t mind the stock emitter’s tint because my whole shop is coated in oil and coolant so it just makes it pretty.
The one I keep at home finally got an emitter upgrade with an XM-L2 U3 3D on Noctigon 20mm. Replaced the 2 wires to MCPCB with teflon coated.

Note: the solder points on the switch side of the board need to be trimmed very close to the board or they will short out against the button retaining ring when you screw it together.
It’s anodized, but why risk it? You can test by simply placing the retaining ring against the assembly and verify that they aren’t dragging on it.

Such an amazing light for the money.