Here are some fresh numbers from most of my lights. All CW.
Some interesting notes are that I lost 23% output on the X2R by switching the reflector to a 60° TIR lens. So to go from my headlamp measurements, which both use the same 60° lens, I need to add 30% which I did at the bottom.
The new Boruit 5K headlamp is kicking some butt. It’s rated at 5000 lumen, but that is Chinese lumen so completely unbelievable. I think the predecessor RJ02 was only about 300 or so lumen, but this one is an estimated 650 lumen. Not bad for a no name emitter.
Most of my lights match up to the JoshK Sphere by the same general percentage. The C8 was off quite a bit. I wonder if it’s due to the narrow beam.
The L5 and L6 are my custom lights which is why they are reading very high.
What does “lumen standard” mean?
Do you mean it’s more accurate to the rated output?
I never pay attention to rated output. I tend to go by emitter type, driver type and amp draw on battery. Then I compare it with emitter tests done by testers such as koef3, djozz, match and others. I have most of these charts in my head.
Then I calculate estimated driver, reflector and lens losses. Battery type can also play a factor. Anyway, I can pretty much tell you what it should be outputting and whether it’s more or less than the rated output. It’s not exact, but not bad for a back of the envelope calculation. Flashlight manufacturers can’t bend the rules of physics. Lol
The general rule of thumb is that most lights are below their rated output.
I never paid much attention to Fenix as they always cost a lot more than similar lights from other manufacturers.
Yea Randy at PflexPro haven’t been very responsive to emails in the last two months. He used to reply to every email right away. I hope it’s just because he’s taking a long vacation temporarily.
TA, I’ve yet to receive a response from either of the individuals I had contacted regarding using their spheres. Was hoping for better news for you. I know you are shipping your lights overseas, but I’ll keep you posted if anything changes.
OK, I redo my calculation with new Data from Maukka. I also take Maukka’s advice remove both Lumintop Tool AAA Copper & Tool AAA TIs’ DATA from the averge calibration#. Base on maukka’s review DATA; I simulation status best I can ( same model of lights with same CCT & use the same batteries). My new average calibration# for TA’s tube is 0.657939. I don’t trust any Mfg spec. I won’t recalibrate any integrating spheres with Mfg spec#.
We aren’t trying to find a specific number to make our readings match a manufacturers rated spec.
We want to know how far off the manufacturers specs actually are.
The bummer is that TA’s tube was calibrated to match a lot of other people’s lumen measuring devices on BLF and CPF. So people like DB Custom, Matt at Adventure Sport Flashlights and many others here were all measuring high.
We may have to scrap a bunch of old measurements from the last several years and start fresh based on guys like Maukka and certain TLF members, etc… who base everything off properly calibrated reference sources.
Not quite. TA needs to recieve his measured sample lights and measure them across several lumen tubes. Any one particular tube could be in the plus 5% while another might be in the negative 5%. So we need multiple samples to find that middle ground. Then TA could tell us that correction number for all spheres.
I don’t know how good it is to have several sample lights measured from different people. I suppose if they are all measured against a certified standard calibration lamp, it should be fine.
If any one person wants to get their lumen tube even more accurate, these measured sample lights might be able to be shipped to customers with instructions.
I would be willing to give TA a deposit for the light and pay for shipping so I can find my particular lumen tubes exact correction number. Then the –5% might shift down to–1% or 2%. I could even ship it to the next person wanting to use it. I don’t know if TA or Micael would want to do this, though.
It may not even be needed. Of the 35-40 tubes made, I think statistically most are already in that +–1% or 2% range. The rest falling into the wider ranges. So passing a light around might be a waste of time. ???
For me right now I’d have no real need for the calibration light because TA is going to figure out what to for do re-calibration (something better than paper sheets / plastic bags) then he will send us the part to install or tell us what to do.
After that I could see maybe passing the light around to confirm accuracy of the fix, if TA recommends doing that, at that point I would be ok with paying for shipping the light to the next member.