If you can’t see any visible signs of something blown or over heated on the back or front its gonna be pretty hard to nail it down without some knowledge of where and what to probe. I had a TV that had quit working because of some glue the factory puts on the larger capacitors to help hold them in place. The glue gets old and hard and becomes conductive. One night with the TV off we here a loud bang like a 22 went off in our bedroom. Couldn’t figure out what the crap it was until we went to turn the TV on, Nothing but the power light came on. I took it apart and looked and looked and read up on my model TV and sure enough when I found the glue on a large capacitor there was a fusible resistor right beside it that looked charred. The capacitor had discharged and jumped thru the fusible resistor and poof no TV. The dust that had accumulated in there probably didn’t help matters either. Cleaned out the dust, scrapped off the capacitor glue and ordered the fusible resistor from digikey. When it arrived soldered the new one in and reassembled. It has been working for 2 years without problems.
Mine was only a glue at fault. So there’s really no telling with yours but the best advice I can give you is research your particular board and all the problems that are associated with that particular board. That will narrow it down to more common faults to look for. It took me days to find the problem.
Inspect all the solder joints of the capacitors on the back side of the board. i have repaired dozens of TVs and the predominant failure mode is bad caps and bad solder joints.
Here is a good joint:
And this one is bad, notice the tiny black ring which is a crack in the solder. This makes for an intermittent junction that sometimes works when you gobsmack the side of the TV—but eventually the gap gets too big and smacking doesn’t work anymore. Get a hot soldering iron and touch up all the solder joints, adding solder where the joints look cracked or need more to cover the pad and “wet” the leads.
Thanks for the vid! Had another look at all the caps, tried the ribbon connections, but still same problem. Clicking sound comes from psu board and I have read that usually means the psu board is the problem, but you gave me an idea with the other ribbon plugs. Going to unplug all of them and plug them in again and see how that works out.
I heard a loud bang like that and it was one of the bigger caps that blew on one of my pc psu. Scared the daylights out of with when it happened as I thought it was a driveby and my window was the target. Anyway, good advice thanks. I've read a few different problems with this board but so far no visible signs yet. Will keep looking to see if I can locate something.
If I did it correctly, I just tested resistance on both fuses and dmm reads 000.1 for both of them. Does that sound right?
Great idea thanks! Last Winter I had problems with my brothers DRL on his honda and after some research, I ended up resoldering some cracked solder joins in the control module and everything worked again. Thanks to all the tips in this thread I'll keep at it and see where it goes.
If it turns on then turns itself off, it sounds almost like too much of a load that the supply “folds back” shortly after.
Ever power up the supply with a dummy load (resistive), see if it holds steady?
If it does, increase the load to what the teevee should be drawing, see if it keeps holding steady. If yes, then a different board might be trying to draw too much.
Coupla new(ish) laptops they gave me from work have these weird-ass barrel connectors, not the usual 12V kind, but 18V or more, and huge (but flimsy) plugs. Squishable-between-your-fingers flimsy.
Anyhoo, tried powering up some strip-lights, evidently tried drawing more amps than the beastie was rated for, and just stopped. No voltage. Oops. Power it off (ie, unplug it), wait a few secs, then plug it back in, works again. Repeat the experiment, same thing. Shuts down, doesn’t come back up ’til unplugged and “rested” a few secs.
That’s when I look up the ratings of the strip-light. Whups… 
Both fuses are good. Does your DMM measure capacitance?
I also noticed in the bottom middle of your pic there is a black box. Looks like a relay to me. I had one of those go bad on a older TV before.
My DMM is a AN8002 but since I have never measured capacitance before, I wouldn't know if it does or not?
Looked it up, it does measure capacitance. Ideally, caps need to be measured out-of-circuit. Without knowing what the capacitors are in parallel with, the readings may or may not mean much.
Unless I desolder the caps, there is no other way of isolating them then to measure correctly is there?
Not easily. If you look up "how to measure caps in circuit", there are some rather sophisticated ways that might give you some ballpark values in some circumstances. This is not going to be practical for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDABYKoVO4Q
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Even though your research "goes back to the PSU", it's certainly possible the issue is with the TV. If a component in the TV shorted out, pulling too much current, the PSU may shut down as a safety feature.
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I don't think it would be that easy to test it with a dummy load as it has three ribbon connectors so could be complicated trying to give power to it. Would be disappointing if you were right and another board is faulty of the plasma screen itself as are drawing the extra current that is switching off the psu.
On occasion I have heard of the plasma screens themselves giving out so that is a real possibility. If there is a short elsewhere, well that could be too, that's why I ordered the psu board just to give it a go, but they cheated me and sent me a beat up used one instead of a new one.
Apples and oranges, buuut, my LED backlit TV stopped working and I wasn’t getting voltage at the power supply output, bought a used PSU and same thing happened.
Turns out it senses when one of the series LED lights goes out and shuts down. Bought some new LED strips from Shopjimmy.com and it’s better than new.
Could be something downstream.
Shame you can’t take all the tubes down to the drugstore tube tester or clean/replace the tuner knob. (sorry, joke for old people)
look for a short to ground on the va and vs lines.
if you find one unplug ysus from the power supply.
if still there unplug zsus.
y=big board on left as you are behind set.
z=the one on the right.
if no short leave va,vs unplugged from power supply and power it up.
measure from ground to va,vs.
if nothing possibly that section is not being commanded on or blown up.
or apfc not running and that section is in uvlo.
apfc output is at the 2 big caps on their side and is around 400vdc
oh and big warning!
these power supplies are dangerous due to both high voltages and high surge current due to big filter caps on va and vs.
apfc is around 400vdc and backed up by big caps too.
Thanks snakebite will give it a try. Do the big caps still retain high voltage when unplugged?
assume that they do.
measure before touching.
Since you tried another PSU board that was likely okay even if dirty, and you got the exact same symptoms—then i’m gonna say your problem is NOT on the PSU but on one of the other boards.
You didn’t really troubleshoot this problem and determine that the PSU was bad, you just assumed it was bad, based on stuff you read on the websticle. You obviously don’t have the equipment or skills to troubleshoot it, especially without a schematic. This is too dangerous for a novice.
Yeah, I took a chance that it was the psu after what I read and since the clicking sound came from that board, but as the short could be elsewhere, it could be a problem. TV is at my brothers house, so Monday I will put the original psu back and unplug one at a time the other three boards that are plugged into the psu board to see if that isolates the problem possibly to a board and I can go from there. I'll do my best to avoid a big voltage shock as I like my life at the moment!