[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

OK thanks for the input. Here’s the GB thread: [GB ended, news update only] Last batch of 219B sw45k R9080 and sw40 R9080

- Clemence

I tested the single E21A 2000K output. I assume this is the same D160 bin Clemence has for sale on his site and not the lower D140 even though it didn’t quite reach 160 lumens at 700mA. The emitter has seen some hard driving though.

It’s D160 rated. The same LED as in the store. It has the thickest phosphor layer off all E21A. High CRI in candle CCT light comes at a price - very low efficiency.
That 157lm at 700mA still within the margin of error. D160 rated at controlled 25C Tj.
This is inline with Djozz built using the same 2000K E21A

- Clemence

Has anybody shaved/de-domed a 219C 5000K R9050? How is the tint (yellowish/greenish?)? I have had a few of them laying around for my Noctigon Meteor for a while now, but I’m not so sure. It currently has de-domed 219B-V1s with 5000K. They are quite nice, but very inefficient.

Clemence, I need to say a big thank you again for these E21A emitters, and your additional service… and I think, that I need to be a completionist… :partying_face:

I just finished two more Skilhunt H03 emitter board swaps - one of them had a heck amount of glue among the threads, so it was nearly impossible to get that battery tube loose, but absolutely worth it.

The sm203 gives the perfect ‘just before sleep’ tint, and it will be very useful for not losing dark adapted eyesight. Probably I will take the chance to order one of the new rechargeable (RC labeled) Skilhunt H03s to check that if I could perform the same actions, because I will definitely need this tint, when I am out in the field for watching meteor showers (or other activities, when only a powerbank is available as battery runtime extension), for taking notes.

The sm403 gives a little bit more complete color perception compared to the sm503, but bluish colored objects become somewhat less pronounced. This tint gives a very relaxing reading light.

I would like to ask if you consider adding the sm453 tint to your emitter lineup, because mixing tints would give more rosy result, and this emitter family seems not to be ‘suffering’ from being too greenish/yellowish. Based on Maukka’s measurement, the sm503 is a rather a 5300K one, so the sm453 could be a(n almost) perfect reference-worthy neutral white (not counting in the Optisolis, which has currently limited power).

Yes, already prepared for more complete line up. Especially the 4500K

- Clemence

Bad/Good news from Nichia:

- There’s a problem with E21A R9080 production for these CCTs: 2000K, 2700L, 3000K, 3500K, 5000K, 5700K, and 6500K. So they’re not available until further notice. Only < R9050 available, and I’m not going to order anything less than R9080.

- Plenty of sm403 and (normally hard to get) sm453 both in R9080.

- I ordered small quantity of 144AR sm453 R9050 and the special 144AR sm563 R9080.

  • Full range Optisolis (2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 5000K, 6500K) rfg00/rfh00, rfc00, all 3 steps)

- Clemence

More bad news:
My bank account

Same issues here, pal… (will make further orders, nevertheless)

That 6500K Optisolis is highly tempting

more bad news: dying from starvation, already sold children and kidney. (will make further orders)

See? That’s what you did wrong. You gotta part out the kids first, before selling them.

By the way, I have seen somewhere a nice quad build of Optisolis, mounted on a slightly modified d=16mm XM footprint PCB.

If I would like to build one, which is the maximum suitable current for them?

Stop it please, it’s horror… uugh :confounded:

- Clemence

But the high-R9 really shows off the red.

There is any specific PCB for Optisolis?

I want to mod a festoon led car and think in this led cause are the best in cri

:confounded: :disappointed:

Approximately a month from now

- Clemence

Is that a 20mm mcpcb?

That looks like a pretty good way to get good output out of these, I guess a frosted optic will be needed to avoid artifacts?