Depending on Reflector.
I have 50+ pcs. of Convoy L2 stock (XML2 , XPL Hi ) and host.
There are 3 kinds of reflector.
Thanks for the measurements.
But I’m curious about the stock versions of the Convoy L2, I can’t seem to find specs (beam throw distance or candela CD). Would like to find out the approximate values (throw, CD) for stock Convoy L2 with XM-L2 and also Convoy L2 with XP-L Hi.
In the picture , first row is stock XPL Hi with 2 x 26650.
but 1 x 26650 is lower.
Hi =D
I am also looking at this particular driver for my L2. Just a few things I need to know. I’m planning on running it with a the following output levels:
Moonlight
Low = 80 mA
Medium = 900 mA
High = 3000 mA
Turbo = 5500 mA with a 180 seconds timer which falls back to 3000 mA.
2 cells will be used at all times.
Do you think this is a wise decision?
I am happy with the stock output of 3000 mA but I find myself looking for a bit more power now and then. Please advise.
sorry, what do you mean there are 3 reflectors? how do I know which one will I receive if I buy a L2?
I’ve seen two different reflectors for the smooth variant. The lip at the business end (that spaces the reflector from the host) are different lengths. The smaller one allows the reflector to be pushed closer to the shelf and allows easier focusing. The longer one is more limited and might require spacers to fit, thus moving the led further back towards the batteries.
I am able to get a smaller hotspot with the short lipped version, using a thinner LED gasket. Can’t do the same on the taller one without a copper spacer under the LED, or a thicker MCPCB (neither of which I have).
I have seen that there’s an OP available too, but haven’t had my hands on one to check it out.
Can I use a 17mm driver in the L2?
Driver hole is 20mm. You can use adapter 17mm to 20mm
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S023828.KD-17mm-Inner-to-20mm-External-Brass-Ring-Driver-Adapter-for-17mm-Circuit-Board-5-pcs
or DIY 
Thank you for the link
Convoy L2 driver size 20 or 22 mm? How bout the emitter side what size is it? I just got my L2 and I was thinking of moddIng it. New driver and emitter. I might replace the tail switch too. All the results I’ve seen are from the older version of the L2.
Thank you
does any make a 17mm retaining ring for c8. I would like a brass replacement for the one that came from the factory for my driver.
I asked Simon and he sent a couple in my subsequent order. The aluminum one I had stripped.
My 2 Newer Convoy L2 driver pockets measure 21.5-21.6mm you can run a 20mm FETDD driver which is sloppy or 22mm FETDD driver, if you just file/sand down the board a little for a tight fit, With 22mm Buck or Boost drivers the components (smd’s) might be too close to the ground seat edge. The depth of the pocket is approximately 3.5mm.
New question. What would be the best driver/emitter combo to get the best throw using two cells in series please.
Thank you
Also: I need a good soldering iron. any suggestions.
I went for a 20mm buck driver and XP-L HI combo from mountain electronics. Pushing 5.1 A on Turbo and the throw is good. However, my centering ring is rubbish so I’m definitely going to change that because when I fasten the bezel completely it moves slightly off centre. Super annoying!
Unfortunately “20mm buck driver” that push hi Amp is very hard to find (non US) I looking for it but can’t find one.
I’m from South Africa and had no issues with shipment. Can’t they ship to your country?
The price +shipping is too much for me.
Howdy, folks. This is not intended as a thread hijack, it seemed right on-point but if it strays too far I’ll start a new thread (and come back to this post and link there for the curious); just LMK.
I’m looking to build a throwy light for boating at night — going between mainland and island on a rocky, low-trafficked (especially at night) lake. I need to be able to spot landmarks/scan the coast at distances of around 1000 feet or so. I’d be running 2 22650s all the time (for balance, to marry the cells, and because it’ll be left in the boat for extended periods), and wanted to use either an XP-L HI V3 3C (from mountain electronics) or an XP-L HI U6 4B (aliexpress — was going with the V3 3C originally but am starting to wonder if maybe the U6 4B would be better for cutting fog?), and looking at buck drivers. I’ve seen some folks have filed down larger drivers to fit the L2 — any suggestions between mountain’s 20mm and 22mm buck drivers? The 20mm has 2.5A and 3.5A output options, whereas the 22 has a 3.0A (the max current of the LEDs under consideration) if that matters.
Also wondering if I need to be talked off the ledge on this one: there’s a HK seller on the auction site offering the L2 with U6 4B for $43 — I’m open to the suggestion that for what I want, I should grab the off-the-shelf option (possibly potting it & bypassing springs) and be done with it. That one comes with an LD29 driver. If the advantages of building it myself are outweighed by the ease and savings of clicking Buy-it-Now, I want to be smart about it. I recognize that that’s a personal calculus, but are there any major disadvantages to simply buying the light whole like this?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
I don’t see much point in building an L2 just to run it at 3.5A. I’d say just buy a stock light from Banggood (look for a coupon on the deal threads) with one of the warmer tints available for ~$45, and be done with it.
On the other hand, that may not have the throw you are looking for. To get there you’ll need to find a higher current driver and make sure your XPL-HI is mounted on a DTP copper MCPCB (I think the stock L2 uses aluminum).
Even then though, it looks like you can only really get a 50% boost in output from an XPL-HI over stock, and you’ll have to drive in 2x as hard to get there.