[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

By the way, I have seen somewhere a nice quad build of Optisolis, mounted on a slightly modified d=16mm XM footprint PCB.

If I would like to build one, which is the maximum suitable current for them?

Stop it please, it’s horror… uugh :confounded:

- Clemence

But the high-R9 really shows off the red.

There is any specific PCB for Optisolis?

I want to mod a festoon led car and think in this led cause are the best in cri

:confounded: :disappointed:

Approximately a month from now

- Clemence

Is that a 20mm mcpcb?

That looks like a pretty good way to get good output out of these, I guess a frosted optic will be needed to avoid artifacts?

Looks really nice, good work!

Never thought into that yet, but absolutely would make sense, and I definitely would take a few, if someone could make a compatible board for 31mm length festoon lights.

(Another field of application, I am currently in the process looking up some (preferably the more efficient, the more good) driver for single 18650 cell lights, because I want to ride bike with customized lights - but for now I will pick 219B/C series LED for that purpose, paired with an XP footprint compatible stripe TIR optics, because I tried closely similar optics already, and seems to be very useful /and spectacular/ in practice).

Thank you :) I will try to reproduce that it would be the best for me to use during museum walks /there are many badly illuminated museum exhibitions here, I already took great use of the Astrolux A1/. And would make a great gift for my loved ones.

Resurrecting my Skilhunt optics swap subtopic (d=17mm), I tried those optics as well, and... yes, they did not make much difference in the practice. It seems, the Skilhunt H03 uses the 30 degree one. With the 60 degree one, I get a significantly more granular center spot, and just some more scattering into the spill. The 45 degree one is just a little different from the 30 degree one. The 20 degree one has a very slight ring in the pattern, but nothing disturbing - maybe the beam got a little bit more concentrated, but not near the experience with the LEDs with smaller emitting surface.

Has anyone modded a lantern with these 9080 emitters? Seems like a good use for high cri good tint. This one here can change from WW to CW. I’m imagining 2000k or 3000k WW with 5000k or 6500k CW 9080.

Not yet. Just got quad dtp stars that I was gonna use to refit an old-timey-looking lantern. Probably will stick in some 351Bs (3000K) for now, which should look nice.

It’s standard 21mm in 4P config

I don’t think it will create any artefacts at all. Didn’t make it in unique rotation because the dual dies in each emitter are too wide apart to each other and already asymmetric.
If in any case there’s artefacts at all, then frosted TIR should cure it easily. It fits all Carclo 106xx

Wow thanks! That’s super useful information!

Clemence, if you have a next order from Nichia, could you ask for some 219D samples? Or did you already have some (can’t remember). I really wonder why the 219D exists while none of the specs are significantly different from the 219C. Or are they simply cheaper?

Already place the sample request but unfortunately it’s 119D. It’s superior for a special application :wink:

- Clemence

Looking at
http://www.nichia.co.jp/en/product/led_product_data.html?type='NVSW219D'
and

they seem exactly the same

BTW, 219D is just as efficient as 219C despite having smaller die.
May be OK for throwers?