Brinyte: What did you do to your B158?

Good job, gchart! The sapphire tail switch is beautiful. Like it :heart_eyes:

Ireplaced the driver with a FET triple channel TA driver and replaced the led with a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B on DTP copper MCPCB. Painted the led surrounding area with blackboard paint to reduce artifacts and rings in beam when zoomed in.
My measurements:
Current: 4,65A
Output: 693 lumens
Intensity: 325000 cd
Throw: 1140m







This is the beam reflected from the river surface:

Mine has no driver anymore, direct drive for short bursts (and I monitor my battery from time to time).
Xp-L HD dedomed, blackened centering ring.
It pierces the night quite well now !


Left : B158, Right : C8 FET driver with XP-L HI

I have some Luminus SST-20 en route. I might try dedoming/slicing one of those and then seeing what it’ll do. Should be intense (ok, pun intended)

Mine is a similiar set up to you all. Dedomed XPG2 S3 1A with a BLF A6 driver and spring bypass and i used a sharpie to darken the centering ring. I might spray paint the centering ring.

I like it but i think i prefer the dedomed XML2 it throws almost as good. Plus my Cometa modded the same appears to throw further?.

Not much variety with this one.

Mine is almost the same as every other one here.

First gen B158
Cree XP-G2 S4 2B dedomed
BLF A6 Fet +1 driver
Reverse clicky switch

Slightly over 300 000 cd.

Slight variation on the same theme: dedomed XP-G2 S4 3D with FET-converted Nanjg AK47-1C driver. 320kcd.

Hey mate what did you use to paint the LED?

I sanded the plastic a bit and then simply used a sharpie. For metal versions (which are in the Uniquefire aspherics) I have used flat black engine paint.

I used the same method on mine and doesn’t looks like that but i didn’t sand it lol. Ill try sanding it see if it helps.
Thanks!

Have been considering a B158 for a while now. How many Cd is the stock XPL-HI version? Asking because I can’t mod and would love a single 18650 light sabre to pierce through bushes and buildings and light up something/someone far away.

Stock is 717 lumens and 113 kcd

Ahh, literally 1/3 of what y’all have modded to. Oh well…

Thanks, ZozzV6!

Everything in following post is based on my experience so I speak in my name and IMHO…

So you are Brinyte representative?

The question should be What Brinyte did to improve B158 light?

The only thing you improved on that light is removing of chunky and totally unnecessary hunk from B158B, and that did not passed without drama. At first you refused such suggestions from respective members here. But finally the guy from your sister company “Odepro” which understood English language very well and follows BLF posts decided to sell B158 without hunchbacks at much higher prices than usual. Maybe you are that guy?

Brinyte tends to listen only one communist orientated boss which punishes their workers for some no big deal “mistakes” (don’t ask me how I know that). Workers are OK but that boss is pita for company.

B158 is just an average light and needs some major improvements like:

- reverse clicky omten switch (switch redesign could lower size and upgrade light performance)

- double and thicker oring to neck section or any exposed section (it is not that waterproof as you saying no matter for some online reviews)

- pill perfectly adopted to 17mm drivers and mcpcb’s which will allow easier driver/mcpcb swapp

  • Smaller or larger heads? Where are they?

But what is incredible and no other OEM flashlight manufacturer except Brinyte figured out is that cheap acrylic lenses can be better and more consistent (almost 100% of consistency at around 95% of light transmittance) than any commercial available ones. So plus for you here :+1:

So I am just curious how Copyfire (Uniquefire) did not figured that out and made their own version of UF158 light. So far they they not only manage to copy certain lights but they also improved them (seriously).

Dear Brinyte if you don’t want to work on improving your light and make it more user friendly it is just matter of time until some of your rival companies reveal all mentioned above and start manufacturing their own better versions.

Similar destiny happened to Dereelight (anyone remember them?), Tiablo, Crelant, Wolf Eyes. Uniquefire grew on their ideas… They just copy-pasted, lowered the prices and made even better products then them. They have boss who is listening, researching and improving things… All that could not be said for your boss dear Brinyte.

I too am glad to have seen the B158B version come out with the “lugs” of the B158. Regarding improvements, I agree with part of what LI said. Specifically, I’d like to see:

  • Stop using thermal adhesive to affix the LEDs in place. I hate scraping and cleaning that stuff up.
  • It would be nice if the LED shelf could properly hold a 20mm MCPCB, even better if had tapped holes for screws
  • The floating driver and press-fit ring is a pain in the butt. Just make the opening the right size for the driver. Solder the driver directly to the pill or something
  • Changing out the switch for a reverse clicky probably isn’t a bad idea, though not a deal breaker
  • Modify the spring setup in the tailcap - it’s way too long

So mine may be a bit different than most. Its got a 5.4 amp qlite with guppydrv, driving a Nichia 319a SW503 D400. “Only” 83kcd, 577 meters throw, which is probably quite a bit less than an XP-G2 or XP-L HI build, but I really like the hex-shaped beam better than the usual square.



With what do you guys paint that thing in black? I have a similar light, and wanted to reduce the artifacts… Thanks and sorry for the off-topic :stuck_out_tongue:

Mine up there is painted with flat black high-temp engine enamel. Its in a spray can, but I sprayed it in a plastic cup and brushed it on. It does a great job reducing the artifacts, but its still not perfect.

Quite cool, though, emarkd! It may not be “perfcet” but I’m sure it will reduce the artifacts if compared with the white “gaskets” these lights bring! Thanks for the tip/answer, gonna see if I see that around here!! :+1:

I picked up mine when they first became available.
I replaced the driver with a Mtn fet plus single 7135 loaded with the BLF A6 firmware and the driver spring bypassed.
Replaced the led with a XP-L HI V2 3B on Noctigon also from Mountain.
Switch was replaced with a 1288 reverse clickie/tail spring pypassed and I used flat black hi heat gas barbeque paint on the white retaining ring.
I still need to raise the pill with a thin slice of copper water pipe to give a wider full flood.