I’m just guessing but its probably a cooper alloy of C145 Tellurium. Easier to machine, longer tool life while machining, stronger, cheaper and close to the same properties as pure cooper. Just a guess though. :+1:
Really awesome looking! :LOVE:
I'm with vinte77, I would be interested in it as a host and stick an XHP50 emitter inside.
Is the pill made from brass or is it made of copper? 
Cheers :-)
18350 tube?
Pictures show it is brass.
That’s mine ordered. More than half sold already!
0K, quick question with regards to the above mentioned lighted tailcap. Related info for the version Simon uses here? Would it work with an H1-A driver?
Thanks and cheers ^:)
I imagine it will be a decent pocket anchor. It’s gonna be heavy. I have copper AA lights that weigh as much if not more so than a aluminum 18650 light. Copper 18650 S2+ I bet will tip the scales at at least 5 kilos. 
Together with a copper pill from kiriba-ru, this should enable triple emitters to maintain high output for very longer periods.
Now there’s a thought!
Even with the stock brass pill, I expect this to do very nicely indeed with the 7135×8 Biscotti driver I opted for 
I got one a couple weeks ago… Just weighed it, 175 grams or so
It is pinker than I would think, so some alloy?
I ordered #2 last week…
I though SMO and OP would be nice
Sorry if this has been discussed in one of the multiple S2 modding thread, i can’t find a clear answer: is the A6 driver compatible with the S2+ and does the switch need replacement (the A6 driver needs a high amp forward clicky if i’m not mistaken)?
Essentially I’d like to turn this copper S2 into a copper A6…
Is that with pill and battery?
Copper has only 30% better volumetric spec. heat capacitance compared to aluminum, so theoretically if aluminum S2 reaches 60C in 30 seconds, copper S2 would reach it in 30*1.3=39 seconds.
But, because aluminum S2 is black and copper S2 is bare metal finish, black S2 will loose more heat via radiation, so difference would be less than 9 seconds.
Heat capacitance as method of cooling is double-edged sword, since it will also take more time for flashlight to cool down.
I was told about 173.5 grams without batteries & about 220 grams with a 30Q in it.
Is there a modern fet+1 driver available? Maybe even one that works with a lighted switch?
My plan if I try to build one is to use the BLF X5/X6 driver along with the lighted switch from the same. Both available on BG for about $11 combined. As far as I can tell that should be a drop in setup to give this thing superpowers and a glow-butt.
Not to mention that driver comes with ToyKeeper’s Bistro firmware which is simply an outstanding UI.
I think most heat is transferred through conduction (into your hand) and convection (cold air moving around the light), cooling by radiation is negligible at the temperatures we’re talking about here. Thermal capacity also does nothing for cooling, only in the sense that we get a few seconds/minutes before the light steps down because of insufficient cooling.
Also, about radiation: what’s important is not the color something has for visible light but rather for infrared light. Anodized aluminium has a pretty good emissivity regardless of its visible color, so even if it were white it would be still as good; for copper, Wikipedia tells me, it makes a huge difference whether it’s polished or oxidized, so with polished copper, cooling by radiation would be considerably worse.
light with pill, no battery
You hand wont transfert more than 3-4 watts.
I agree with led4power.
Mine weighs 176g no battery on a cheap scale so who knows. It is coated with a clear or ano. I would like to know if it could be removed if anyone figures out what the coating is. I was hoping for raw copper, but its very nice. It has a slightly pink cast so I wonder about the alloy also.