And back to the topic 
I decided to change XHP70.2 on MT-G2. As soon as the parcel reaches me and I swap, I will pass the report. I could not take it anymore with this tint shift.
In the meantime, I tested the thrunite catapult v6 from the same family…
I got 1729 lumen @ 30 seconds…
That is up to thrunite spec 1700 lumen.
Komeko, you’re going to lose some lumens but the tint and overall beam profile should be much nicer, I for one much prefer the MT-G2 which is why I shoehorned one into an Nitecore TM03. 
Edit: Be prepared to do some fitting for the considerably larger emitter. 
I have found that a nice smallish pair of Fiskars is great for this enlargement process of the emitter hole in a reflector. I use a single blade of the scissors, in a draw motion, like a slice from the blade about halfway into the reflector (from the bottom) and pulling it out while doing a slight rotation, change grip on the reflector with a bit of a twist and repeat…. this keeps it nicely round and slices off the aluminum in smooth strokes that don’t pollute the inner reflector. Just be careful not to cut yourself on the other open blade.
This would be great…
If you send a light to TA he now has the correction diffusers, Jason should be receiving the discs soon as well.
“Just North of me…” that’s actually laughable. Ft. Worth is some 2 1/2 hours away, pretty much the same in distance as Houston is to the South. With 2-Day Priority, anywhere in the US is only 2 days away regardless of the distance (well, mostly)
Me and my slang talk. Lol
wow, lot of talk about the spheres I was not even aware of lol.
One major point I want to point out about all of this is that Cree only rates their LED’s to within +/-7%.
So no matter what the rating on a light is, unless then measure each and every one (the big brands do not), there will always be a 14% tolerance range on any light at the very best. Then add in the 1–15 or more tolerance of the components inside the driver (depending on the type of driver) and you can easily have 20-30% variance between lights off the same assembly line just based on the tolerance ranges of the components they are made out of.
So there is no reason to get up tight about minor differences in readings, it could be a whole bunch of different things.
I am up for playing musical lights to get some direct comparisons. Although the D4 is not the best option since it is not regulated. An S2+ could work in the medium mode.
So, if I build a PZL driver for the D1S and flash Anduril to it, it’ll be regulated.
Ok, that’s been a while back so probably some have no idea what that is… it’s a driver board designed by Wight here on the forum that uses 7135 chips on a 2 channel driver in place of the MOSFET. I can stack chips for some 4.5-5A total and it’d be regulated by the chips as long as the forward voltage requirements of the emitter were met by the cell. Probably a first, doubtful the PZL has been used with Anduril before but hey, random chaos is all in a day’s work around here.
It’s called the PZL because the layout on the board is all printed in the masking where the MCU goes, if you put the MCU on first all the other components are quesswork as to where they go, a puzzle, hence… PZL.
Using my TA lumen tube, I just measured my TC20vn w/ fully charged Shockli and got 5,200 lumens at startup. Applying 0.68 reduction factor results in 3,530 lumens. Moving the light around doesn’t really change the lumen readings despite the gap between the light and the disc because TA used several diffusing films to mitigate inconsistencies.
My TC20vn measures about 2% brighter than my stock TC20 (which I just sold to a friend) using the same fully charged battery on the TA lumen tube. My TC20vn uses the 4000k XHP70.2 M4 bin from Mouser. It’s not the same batch as the one used by TA for his MT09R mods. The Mouser one is an ugly yellow.
That’s a nice bit higher than what Newlumen measured.
3200 @ 30 secs compared to 3500 at turn on.
I think you both used Shockli batteries, though I’m not sure which models or if that matters.
SKV89, did the lumens hold up well after 30 seconds or did it drop a noticeable amount?
For a calibration light we actually want a fairly low power so the output remains consistent.
Somewhere in the 150-300 lumen range is ideal from my testing. Much more and it gets hot too fast and lumens drop, much less and you loose resolution.
For example the low and mid modes of the S2+ I am using for calibration now are very stable but high drops too much and is very imprecise for calibration, mostly just for confirmation.
I took a measurement at 30s. Surprisingly this time turn on lumen was about 20 lumens higher (I’m guessing due to a cold battery vs warm battery fresh off charger). After 30s with a stopwath, it dropped to the same 3,530 lumens applying the 0.68 calibration factor.
I’m pretty sure we are using the same Shockli 26650 5500mah.
So it works okay with 65mm long flat unprotected 26650 cells? They’re not too short to maintain good contact? They don’t suffer from momentary circuit disconnections if you shake the light or jar it when it’s on?
I haven’t noticed any problems yet. Only problems I’ve noticed is that it shuts off on turbo randomly but the problem went away after I cleaned the battery and springs with rubbing alcohol.
Will you able to test the lumen with the tc20? I will do the same.
But mine is a TC20vn with a Mouser ordered XHP70.2 4000k 80CRI M4 bin. Though the vn version is just a tiny bit brighter than the stock because I’m guessing the stock is on a higher emitter bin. I sold my stock one to a friend. Maybe I can get him to bring it over for testing one day.
Edit: oh I just remembered my stock is NW and yours is probably CW so it’s not a direct comparison too. I have some lights being modded by TA right now so I’ll ask him to give me lumen readings on the lower modes for calibration. You might want to do the same to get the best calibration.
Did you use 3-step XHP70.2 M440G?
2 step 440H same as the one TA used but the tint is ugly yellow in the Mouser version. Far more yellow than the one used in the MT09RTA
Here are the result… I did get correct rating for the thrunite catapult v6… i only got 3200 lumen for my tc20…
Newlumen, are you using one size too small centering disc on your tube? The flashlight should be going through the hole maybe 5mm to 10mm to get the highest reading.