Looks good. I like the contrast :+1:
Simple mod last night.
Both my modded Thorfire TK05 and Acebeam UC15 were sporting XPL HI 5A2 emitters. I upgraded both of them to XPL HI V2 5D.
Very similar tint, but the new emitters are slightly brighter.
Lumintop Duke SS + Nichia 219B sw40.
Left: RayLight Pineapple 219C 4000K, right: Duke 219B sw40:
Noice !
KDLITKER xhp50.2 with KD ex18 extension tube roughed up on steel wire wheel. for the 2-cell fun.
XHP50.2 J4 5700K
20mm MTN-MAXlp 4amp limit, the original had 3amp driver, but i had this one on hand.
any ideas for fet style drivers not from mtn, the small orders and high shipping to Aus is a killjoy.
Built another C8F, this time using LH351D 5000K 80CRI. I also have a C8F with an XP-L2 V5 5000K 70CRI so figured I would do a comparison.
Output (adjusted my usual numbers down 12% to djozz levels):
LH351D 5000K 80CRI
0s: 3,450 | 30s: 3,149
XP-L2 V5 5000K 70CRI
0s: 3,180 | 30s: 2,735
Even at 80CRI the LH351D bests the XP-L2 and it maintains its brightness better after 30s, nice.
Beam (description):
LH351D 5000K 80CRI
- nice even "white" hotspot
- very slight greenish/yellow ring out of SMO reflectors, gets slightly less apparent with higher brightness
XP-L2 V5 5000K 70CRI
- the hotspot is even but it's very pink in the middle and very apparent next to the Samsung or Nichia 5K
- yellow ring pretty consistent at all levels, it's also darker yellow than the Samsung ring
Both emitters have a similar sized hotspot and spill and in both cases the wide spill eventually returns to the color of the hotspot. When I say "white" hotspot I feel like the Samsung emitter is just under 5K and I only really think that when I put it next to a floody 219C 5K.
Beam (crappy pictures):
| auto wb, XP-L2 v LH351D | auto wb, D4 219C v C8F XP-L2 | auto wb, D4 219C v C8F LH351D |
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| 5K wb, XP-L2 v LH351D | 5K wb, D4 v XP-L2 | 5K wb, D4 v LH351D |
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That is a really nice comparison contactcr! And you actually managed to take pictures that look pretty much like what you see in real life (I never manage that), well done!
Btw, my C8F with Luxeon V leds I measure at exact the same output as your LH351D version: 3150lm @ 30 seconds. 
Unusually conventional CRX builds this time! Almost at a level that I can actually achieve 
But I’m afraid that this will not be for long 
, soon these two lights will be converted to high class gadgets by the usual CRX-magic 
You know me too well, waiting on bits
Where did you get pill from? I dont remember Ive ever send you one.
The light was given to me by a member who got it from someone else.
Might not be one of your pills but looks like one and nicely made so I gave you credit, 
It has a brass screw in retaining ring, looks just like this one.
CRX, i’m impressed 
You do great modding, I can’t imagine the tiny sleeper with a SST40, reminds me of a Top Fuel Dragster. You Scottish are very inventive
It comes from centuries of having to outwit the English :laughing:
I with you on that I love to watch the Golf Tournaments on TV when they play on your Courses. Those are where the Real Men play, The Bunkers are deep, the Wind never stops, and Gorse is Hell.
Found out last night that 1 of my lanterns didn’t work due to a burnt out light bulb, so I updated it today. I had an old aluminum MCPCB cool white LED from a cheapo flashlight that I was able to use.
First I determined the proper resistor to give the LED around 3 volts. Then screwed it onto a washer to help with heat dissipation. And finally secured it onto the lantern.
The incandescent bulb base goes up to 135 degrees Fahrenheit vs 124 max for the LED.
The incandescent measures 0.5 amps vs 0.1 for the LED. So with 4 eneloop AA batteries, the run time goes from 15 hours to 76. The LED is not quite as bright as the incandescent, but it’s still plenty bright. And even though it’s cool white, everyone in my family (besides me) prefers that tint over the warm white incandescent.
Nekkid! :D
Decided to strip the ano from the S2+ shorty, widen the bezel by 1mm, swap in three XP-L HI emitters, two red trits at the tail and a new white switch boot.
Around 2800lm at start up now.
I rebuilt the charger module in my MBI HF-R Ti Nichia 219C so it now has an increased max charging current of 250mA and made the momentary side button a lighted locator switch with red LED.
The momentary direct drive side button gives around 760lm now from an Efest 10440 cell & the rotary tail switch operates through the five modes from 250,150, 30, 5, 1lm?
The length of the brass charging/ switch unit is around 20mm, 10mm width.
After my first attempt of modding the Q8 with some XM-L2 T3 7A3 emitters I tried again. A couple of days ago four new emitters, I ordered some time ago arrived :
Convoy M2 XM-L2 T3 7A3 CRI90 (left) BLF Q8 “XM-L2 T3 7A3 CRI90” (right)
Sadly the four new emitters have the the same green hue as the last ones :confounded: , this time they are all “green”. The last four had one emitter with the same tint as the one in the Convoy M2 in the image.
I contacted Kaidomain late last month regarding the first four emitters but they have yet to responce :weary:
@CRX : could you be more skilled than that ? I don’t think so !
The level of intrication in your micro-mods is just unreal !
@khas: would you mind me sending 4 of those XM-L2’s from my stash? No guaranties that they are old enough to be of the right batch but who knows?