Thrunite TC20 - XHP70 - 3800lm

wow, lot of talk about the spheres I was not even aware of lol.

One major point I want to point out about all of this is that Cree only rates their LED’s to within +/-7%.

So no matter what the rating on a light is, unless then measure each and every one (the big brands do not), there will always be a 14% tolerance range on any light at the very best. Then add in the 1–15 or more tolerance of the components inside the driver (depending on the type of driver) and you can easily have 20-30% variance between lights off the same assembly line just based on the tolerance ranges of the components they are made out of.

So there is no reason to get up tight about minor differences in readings, it could be a whole bunch of different things.

I am up for playing musical lights to get some direct comparisons. Although the D4 is not the best option since it is not regulated. An S2+ could work in the medium mode.

So, if I build a PZL driver for the D1S and flash Anduril to it, it’ll be regulated. :wink:

Ok, that’s been a while back so probably some have no idea what that is… it’s a driver board designed by Wight here on the forum that uses 7135 chips on a 2 channel driver in place of the MOSFET. I can stack chips for some 4.5-5A total and it’d be regulated by the chips as long as the forward voltage requirements of the emitter were met by the cell. Probably a first, doubtful the PZL has been used with Anduril before but hey, random chaos is all in a day’s work around here. :wink:

It’s called the PZL because the layout on the board is all printed in the masking where the MCU goes, if you put the MCU on first all the other components are quesswork as to where they go, a puzzle, hence… PZL.

Using my TA lumen tube, I just measured my TC20vn w/ fully charged Shockli and got 5,200 lumens at startup. Applying 0.68 reduction factor results in 3,530 lumens. Moving the light around doesn’t really change the lumen readings despite the gap between the light and the disc because TA used several diffusing films to mitigate inconsistencies.

My TC20vn measures about 2% brighter than my stock TC20 (which I just sold to a friend) using the same fully charged battery on the TA lumen tube. My TC20vn uses the 4000k XHP70.2 M4 bin from Mouser. It’s not the same batch as the one used by TA for his MT09R mods. The Mouser one is an ugly yellow.

That’s a nice bit higher than what Newlumen measured.

3200 @ 30 secs compared to 3500 at turn on.

I think you both used Shockli batteries, though I’m not sure which models or if that matters.

SKV89, did the lumens hold up well after 30 seconds or did it drop a noticeable amount?

For a calibration light we actually want a fairly low power so the output remains consistent.

Somewhere in the 150-300 lumen range is ideal from my testing. Much more and it gets hot too fast and lumens drop, much less and you loose resolution.

For example the low and mid modes of the S2+ I am using for calibration now are very stable but high drops too much and is very imprecise for calibration, mostly just for confirmation.

I took a measurement at 30s. Surprisingly this time turn on lumen was about 20 lumens higher (I’m guessing due to a cold battery vs warm battery fresh off charger). After 30s with a stopwath, it dropped to the same 3,530 lumens applying the 0.68 calibration factor.

I’m pretty sure we are using the same Shockli 26650 5500mah.

So it works okay with 65mm long flat unprotected 26650 cells? They’re not too short to maintain good contact? They don’t suffer from momentary circuit disconnections if you shake the light or jar it when it’s on?

I haven’t noticed any problems yet. Only problems I’ve noticed is that it shuts off on turbo randomly but the problem went away after I cleaned the battery and springs with rubbing alcohol.

Will you able to test the lumen with the tc20? I will do the same.

But mine is a TC20vn with a Mouser ordered XHP70.2 4000k 80CRI M4 bin. Though the vn version is just a tiny bit brighter than the stock because I’m guessing the stock is on a higher emitter bin. I sold my stock one to a friend. Maybe I can get him to bring it over for testing one day.

Edit: oh I just remembered my stock is NW and yours is probably CW so it’s not a direct comparison too. I have some lights being modded by TA right now so I’ll ask him to give me lumen readings on the lower modes for calibration. You might want to do the same to get the best calibration.

Did you use 3-step XHP70.2 M440G?

2 step 440H same as the one TA used but the tint is ugly yellow in the Mouser version. Far more yellow than the one used in the MT09RTA

Here are the result… I did get correct rating for the thrunite catapult v6… i only got 3200 lumen for my tc20…


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Newlumen, are you using one size too small centering disc on your tube? The flashlight should be going through the hole maybe 5mm to 10mm to get the highest reading.

I tried the big hole and its the same… it gives me somewhere 3200 lumen.

I tested the fenix tk35ue, 3200 lumen light. I just got 3500 lumen.

IIRC, I tried those at one point and noticed the same thing. I purchased a dozen different XHP70.2’s when I was searching for a good combo of tint and output before settling on the 440H I have been using.

If the light just rests on the edge of the ring then it can work fine. It is pretty easy to hole the centering ring up to the light and make sure it does not cover up the reflector.

As long as no / very little reflector is covered, the numbers will be very close.

I received my “neutral white” TC20 yesterday. I ordered from the Thrunite website with the 20% off coupon and it shipped to me from Amazon with Sunday delivery.

It’s not very neutral IMHO. It’s definitely on the very cool end of neutral. It’s not as cold as a CW light, but it’s noticeably cooler in tint than all my other neutral lights. If it were any cooler I’d be returning it. The “neutral white” Catapult V6 I received from them yesterday is similarly cool.

The whole NW thing, Neutral means it doesn’t have a tint lean one way or another, or that’s what Neutral means to me. There’s a lot of folks calling warm white neutral these days, with a yellow to orange tint, sometimes even almost incandescent, still being called neutral. I call that warm. And those get pulled immediately on any light I get. 3A tint is about as warm as I care to deal with. 3D in a particular instance, but I don’t even use those much.

I wouldn’t say it’s necessarily tinted. I’d say definitely say it has a higher than desired CCT for a neutral light.

Edit: My colorimeter says the Catapult V6 is 4650K (x=.357, y=.369). The HC20 is 4800K (x=.352, y=.368). My Nichia 219B P60 drop-in that is one of my faves is 4380K (x=.364, y=.361). My NW Eagletac GX30A3D is 4050K (x=.378, y=.376). An ugly CW flashlight I have Sunwayman D40A is a awful 7200K (x=.304, y=.312). In comparison to that, the HC20 looks quite lovely.

During daylight hours now in the house it doesn’t seem as cool as it did last night.