Blue Chips, is that Spyderco a frame lock or liner lock? I was looking really hard at the Military/Para Military for the S90V blade steel, didn’t see one with a Ti scale as a frame-lock or I may have taken the plunge…
isti, that RFT has a nicely shaped blade… seems someone missed something on that frame lock though, usually the lock side is thinned down to keep it from being too stout, they didn’t take the thinned section all the way out so it appears it might be pretty stiff to flex, is that the case?
Edit: What I like about the blade shape is that the Tanto style knives were originally made from a broken Samuai sword, using the remaining tip and retrofitting it to a new handle. This blade looks quite similar to my Katana, except for the grind of course. My Katana is convex ground. 28” of razor blade.
The trick is that the real lock-bar relief is on the inside so it’s felxible as it should be. 
Are those high-end katanas perfect razor sharp out of the box or do they need any touching up?
It took me almost 2 hours (and 3 beers 
) from a #120 diamond to a #3000 ruby. It’s still not a perfect mirror finish but I’m getting closer:
This one is a competition class Katana, came literally razor sharp and has a little wooden box of sharpening materials, essentially a powder ball! They sharpen it with a dang cloth “sack” holding abrasive powder! Beats me, but that’s what the video showed the Master doing, all along the edge beating it with this little powder ball over and over and over in what must take forever! lol I’ve honed it on a leather strap to polish it a bit, but didn’t try the old school way.
Had a Rat Snake after my Labrador Retriever one day, stupid snake was seriously aggressive! I swung the sword, thought I’d missed as I didn’t feel anything make contact… snake’s head and about 2 inches of body were laying separate like a laser had cut him! His body tried crawling away! Cleanest cut I’ve ever seen, amazing stuff! (My dog went bezerk, wanted this thing bad!) [the snake, he wanted the snake]
I guess there’s some difference between usual shaving sharpness and that competition level sharpness.
Reprofiled my Koenig Arius to 17º and mirror finished edge, this is the CTS204 steel, was out mowing in the heat this morning and decided to cut the sleeves off my T shirt, blade slipped through the cotton material like a quality pair of sewing shears would, just effortless. Had to keep thinking it’d do my finger the same way if I got careless…
Air temp at 101º with a heat index around 106º
Came here to look at some knives, now I can’t stop thinking about how good Pilsner Urquell is. Been many years since I’ve enjoyed one (many) of those. Can’t get it where I live now. 
I’m lucky because it’s quite abundant and inexpensive here. There are also a couple of places where you can find it on tap. Can’t you find anything similar in the American pilsner type craft beer offerings?
Enlan M08 frame-lock budget folder (here is my review). It would be quite hard to find any better deal out there with similar specs at the moment.
I currently reside in Utah. All beer here is limited to 3.2% unless I go to the state run liquor store. Which is overpriced.
I guess they would ask for a permit to buy this Gulden Draak (10.5%): :person_facepalming:
What make and model is that sheepsfoot slipjoint?
“usual shaving sharpness” is what Dundee demonstrate.
The Millie is a framelock. It actually has a SS insert for the ball detent which also functions as an overtravel stop that I thought was a nice touch. It’s an exclusive model only sold by knifeworks.com. When I saw it was down to only $199 I had to jump on it.
Yes indeed
But I really like that little folder, too.
Today I’ve just reground the blade of a Fura Kwaiken, the one with the fat flat grind, rather a sharpened prybar than a knife.
Hollow grind is “easier” to do as I thought…
