FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight

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drjamesfox
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I’m interested! Please add me to the list.

bonfire
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I’m interested. Please put me down for one. Thanks.

Moparguy
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Please sign me up for 2 ea. FW3A flashlights.

jon_slider
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Heres a thought that has the potential to double the sales,
offer the FW3A with a choice of both the 4000k LH351D, and the 5000k XP-L Hi.

Some people who would not have bought the Floody 4000k High Cri LED, could buy the throwier and cooler Low CRI option, and vice versa.

Plus, some people will buy both.

I predict there will be no Titanium version (thats a dare).

Zulumoose
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jon_slider wrote:
Heres a thought that has the potential to double the sales,
offer the FW3A with a choice of both the 4000k LH351D, and the 5000k XP-L Hi.

Some people who would not have bought the Floody 4000k High Cri LED, could buy the throwier and cooler Low CRI option, and vice versa.

Plus, some people will buy both.

I predict there will be no Titanium version (thats a dare).

I’m down for 2, and 1 each of those sounds good, maybe 4500 for the warmer one.

Beam me up!

teacher
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jon_slider wrote:
Heres a thought that has the potential to double the sales,
offer the FW3A with a choice of both the 4000k LH351D, and the 5000k XP-L Hi.

Some people who would not have bought the Floody 4000k High Cri LED, could buy the throwier and cooler Low CRI option, and vice versa.

Plus, some people will buy both.

That has been mentioned before. If it can be done / accomplished, I can’t see that it would be anything but a win-win for all involved.

Cause your right I think…. no matter which way it goes there will be people who will not buy this great light because of the emitter preference, as you mentioned above. Sad

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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Grappler
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jon_slider wrote:
Heres a thought that has the potential to double the sales,
offer the FW3A with a choice of both the 4000k LH351D, and the 5000k XP-L Hi.

Some people who would not have bought the Floody 4000k High Cri LED, could buy the throwier and cooler Low CRI option, and vice versa.

Plus, some people will buy both.

Brilliant.

5% of the people own 95% of the flashlights. Hello 5 percenter!

 

jon_slider
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Zulumoose wrote:
maybe 4500 for the warmer one.
lol
that was not one of the choices I gave
here is why
zak.wilson wrote:
Neither the 219C nor the LH351D come in 4500K.
however, I expect some people will swap in N219b 4500k

teacher wrote:
there will be people who will not buy this great light because of the emitter preference
yes, and that would be unfortunate. I hope most will find a way to have the LED swapped to the flavor of their choice.

fwiw, Some modders have stock of exotic LEDs that can be had for a nominal fee. I sometimes choose modders based on whether thy have an LED I want, and Ive recently had mods done by both Texas_Ace (4500k N219b), and Clemence (2000k E21A quad). I recommend both of them.

Your FW3a’s could be drop shipped to the modder of your choice, and you could end up with a grail LED for less than half the cost of an HDS

kaybi
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Both 219b and e21a are pretty much not usable on a fet light.

ToyKeeper
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I have some 219b FET lights. The tint isn’t as good on direct-drive modes, but it doesn’t generally have problems otherwise. On a FET+N+1 like this, it could work pretty well. The highest regulated mode would be only about 800 lm though.

maukka
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If the FW3A ends up using the LH351D, please make sure it goes back to the clear 10507. There’s no tint shift whatsoever with the Samsungs, and at least I wouldn’t want it to be even floodier than it already it is.

ToyKeeper
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So far, LH351D and 4500K have held a lead for quite a while. 4250K and 4750K keep swapping for second place, with 4750K currently in the lead. XP-L HI and 219c keep swapping for second place, with XP-L HI currently in the lead.

I haven’t done emitter-CCT correlation yet, but from how things look now, it seems like the best option would be to ask Lumintop to make two flavors:

  • Floody: LH351D 90CRI in 4000K or 5000K (not sure which)
  • Throwy: XP-L HI in … 4A? (~4650K)

I’m not sure if they’ll be willing to do this, but if so, it seems like it would cover the widest range of preferences.

joechina
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Agro wrote:
Will it accept a protected cell? I mean one with built in charger. Wink

No max. specified length 67mm.
Aim is as compact as possible. Batteries with Micro-USB are ca. 69,7mm.
Maybe if you replace the tail spring.

Geuzzz
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Would it not be easier to chose one emitter option and give the option to order without leds?

joechina
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Sombody mentioned only the 4000K LH351D is 90CRI. The 5000K is only 70CRI

The tree only 10m away under in the beamshoot is an important information.
How far is the house in the background away?

Can you add this to the description in the poll?

I guessed the tree on 20m. Being only 10 away I think the floddy one pisses away light has to much unused light.

I will vote for the XPL Hi. Having no dome it has less colored rings at close distance.
Seems for me best of both worlds for an EDC.

For the temperature, I want less scatter with fog, mist and dust in the air. 5000K isn’t good for this, 3000K would be good for this, but will never win.
So 4000K.

joechina
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maukka wrote:
If the FW3A ends up using the LH351D, please make sure it goes back to the clear 10507. There’s no tint shift whatsoever with the Samsungs, and at least I wouldn’t want it to be even floodier than it already it is.

On the other hand you can polish the frosted optic. And if you want to swap LEDs frosted would be better.

How floddy is the Samsung LED compared to an Astrolux S41 / S42 ?
The first is quite popular so people can relate to.

Agro
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joechina wrote:
Agro wrote:
Will it accept a protected cell? I mean one with built in charger. Wink

No max. specified length 67mm.
Aim is as compact as possible. Batteries with Micro-USB are ca. 69,7mm.
Maybe if you replace the tail spring.


That’s what I thought, thanks!
ToyKeeper
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joechina wrote:
Sombody mentioned only the 4000K LH351D is 90CRI. The 5000K is only 70CRI

There is a 5000K 90CRI version, but BLF hasn’t tested it yet.

joechina wrote:
The tree only 10m away under in the beamshoot is an important information.
How far is the house in the background away?

Can you add this to the description in the poll?

I guessed the tree on 20m. Being only 10 away I think the floddy one pisses away light has to much unused light.

I went out to measure it… that tree is only 8.5 meters away. The house in the background is 53 m away.

So, yes, it’s very floody.

Both lights were set to the same amount of lumens according to my light box, about 107 lm, to show how things look at a medium level.

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Interested in one, please add me to the list.

Nooner
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Interested in one. Thanks

Tom Tom
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ToyKeeper wrote:

I went out to measure it… that tree is only 8.5 meters away. The house in the background is 53 m away.

So, yes, it’s very floody.

Both lights were set to the same amount of lumens according to my light box, about 107 lm, to show how things look at a medium level.

But it was a “simulation” using a different LED? Until you have a prototype with Samsungs, or Nichias in it, it’s just an approximation, and potentially mis-leading.

Besides the various optics are inexpensive and (unlike the LEDs) trivially easy to change, maybe offer a set of alternatives for those who would like to experiment, don’t already have some in our bits box, and don’t want to buy them individually at higher prices.

That’s one of the great attractions of a torch using “standard” TIRs, the ease of experimentation.

Or at least show us how the beam looks once the frosted optic is polished, or the tighter one is fitted.

Or set up a third poll for optic preference Wink

PS: Please clarify how many 7135s are in the “N” bank. I think you suggested that the max. regulated level (i.e. the max usable level) is equivalent to a fully loaded Nanjg ?

PPS: whilst I agree that using linear drive is more efficient than a crude FET driver, the low Vf of the Nichia still means inefficiency, just that the waste heat is dumped in the driver rather than the LED, which is why I am keen on seeing the Samsung used.

PPPS: what is the mass of proto2 (and the original design) ?

spaceminions
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I should mention that in my image, which has similar cd but less angle covered compared to the samsung fw3a, the distance to the furthest treetops is 60m, and they are clearly lit. The comparison shot shows the approximate difference in cd/lm (though it should apparently be 2.25 cd/lm instead of 2.1) not the ultimate throw. I think the key thing here is to be sure the level of lumens at which it can continuously run is higher than what is needed to produce sufficient cd, whether the multiplier is 2.x or 4.x, and I think the lh351d is more than enough.


(rem: this image was unedited and the camera rendered darks as darker and lights as lighter than my eyes. The flashlight is the only source of light here; anything visible is easy to see without dark adapted eyes.)

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

Tom Tom
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djozz wrote:
How about the Samsung LH351C (die size is in between LH351B and LH351C). It is recently introduced so probably the bins are good, it will not have the enormous flood of the 1D but should still have good output and efficiency. and it is cheap, about $0.50 when bought in quantities. (Some high CRI options ( Wink ) : 4000K 90CRI at Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SPHW...)(5000K 90CRI: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SPHW...)

I’d just like to quote our resident expert djozz. From two days ago.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1332421#comment-1332421

Though he made a typo, I think he meant to compare with LH315D.

ISTM that the LH351C (not D) could be perfect for those of us who value good CRI, with less flood.

Surely worth evaluating. Available. Well priced. Let’s look forwards, not fall back on safe but unimaginative choices.

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Interested in two. Thanks

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Thanks Tom Tom indeed I typo’ed a C for a B.

The only problem is that although one can fairly well predict the performance of the LH351C (very good in both output and behaviour in optics), no one has actually tried it, and BLF history has shown that a new led needs a first succesful mod to gain momentum among the crowd.

(I’d love to test but have never ordered from Digikey, sbipping kills ordering there)

teacher
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Tom Tom wrote:

(snip)

ISTM that the LH351C (not D) could be perfect for those of us who value good CRI, with less flood.

(snip)

Hmmmm… that might indeed be a good mod for some people to do after they get their lights. Thumbs Up

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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Tom Tom
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djozz wrote:
Thanks Tom Tom indeed I typo’ed a C for a B.

The only problem is that although one can fairly well predict the performance of the LH351C (very good in both output and behaviour in optics), no one has actually tried it, and BLF history has shown that a new led needs a first succesful mod to gain momentum among the crowd.

(I’d love to test but have never ordered from Digikey, sbipping kills ordering there)

Did you detect my typo ? Wink We all do it.

Atom00
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Interested in one. Please add me to the list. Tq.

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I’m interested! Please add me to the list.

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Interested. Add me to your list for one.

Thank you!

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