FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight

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Tixx
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teacher wrote:
Tom Tom wrote:
That’s teacher for you.

Without his posts this thread would be half as long.

And twice as interesting.

More noise & exaggeration from you Tom Tom.

Your quoted post above was #3626.

As of that post I have indeed made 67 of them for 1.847%.
You have posted 59 times of the 3626 for a 1.627%.
So indeed I did outpost you by a whopping 0.220% in post count. Thumbs Up

But in length of post & lines written…… you would be the sure winner. Wink

So Tom Tom…..
…..your ‘declaration’ is somewhat akin to ‘the pot calling the kettle black’. Big Smile

At least try to be accurate in your future insult attempts Tom Tom…… Beer

As far as “interesting”….. that is subjective & depends on the individual listener. You certainly do not have a final say on that besides your own personal opinion.
……………………………..

sub·jec·tive / 1. based on or influenced by personal feelings, tastes, or opinions:

So your comments on the Samsung LED are what exactly? Pots? kettles? Who cares. Just add some actual value to the discussions to help people make better educated choices if you are going to comment on something specifically like the Samsung triple.

Tixx
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FW3A Team wrote:
Voting is open for emitter details:

- TK

Curious as to what the Anonymous votes are trending vs the rest of the votes.

spaceminions
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
spaceminions wrote:
teacher wrote:
And as you said this….. “while this is going to have a floody beam, it’s still more than capable of being the dominant source of light versus everything in the nearest 2-300ft when it’s legitimately dark outside” … Personally I do not think it will have a snowballs chance of lighting up much of anything at 300 ft. whether it is legitimately dark outside or not. I do not think it will even come remotely close. And as far as it “being the dominant source of light” at 300ft…… I find that very hard to believe. I find it hard to believe at way less than 300ft too.
You think, you doubt, you think. I have been in the dark, I know how much light it takes to see when there’s not streetlights and floodlights shining in your eyes. If it was truly dark outside, then the other sources of light can’t add up to much; let’s say a full moon even though I don’t consider moonlight dark (I can nearly read a book by it). It’s the wrong phase right now to compare versus that, but at the very least I might show what this rough amount of kcd at 300ft instead of 200 can do.

I was cycling last night at 2am in a pretty remote rural area about 25km from home. Clear, no moon, the milky way shining bright overhead, so I knew it was dark. I stopped my bike and turned off my light to see how dark.

Wow! I could not even see the road right underneath me, even after letting my eyes dark adapt for a few minutes. I could make out the tree line where it met the starry sky, but that was it. It was actually rather scary, when I thought, “What would happen if my light broke or I ran out of batteries?” I would have been completely unable to navigate anywhere, even by foot, at least until twilight started to give me some light. (But I carried 4 lights and spare batteries, so I wasn’t worried.)

Any light at 300 ft., even a crappy low-power one, would have easily out-shined any stray light (of which there was virtually none). Even 0.01 lux would have allowed me to see where the road was.

Strange. I can see to walk around by starlight after a short time; of course I might be lucky. I’m sure even those with poor ability to adapt could see better than that after long enough; full adaptation takes much longer than the initial bit- you’d be able to see well enough to walk around after half an hour at worst, because then your rods should be fully recovered. But yeah, even a little illumination would be plenty when it’s truly dark. Many times I’m disappointed with the lowest mode a light offers. And in places with significant stray light, as long as you don’t let yourself get blinded by something bright, you can rely on ambient light some. On a dark night in a rural area, you’ve got to supply all your own light, but it doesn’t have to overpower bright lights to be the dominant source, so best to cover a wider area to avoid tunnel visioning, and of course don’t desensitize yourself too much in case you end up needing that sensitivity. Either way for navigating around I want a nice wide beam, and the beam intensity of today’s triples and quads is still quite a lot, more than enough for that purpose.

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

teacher
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Tixx wrote:
teacher wrote:
Tom Tom wrote:
That’s teacher for you.

Without his posts this thread would be half as long.

And twice as interesting.

More noise & exaggeration from you Tom Tom.

Your quoted post above was #3626.

As of that post I have indeed made 67 of them for 1.847%.
You have posted 59 times of the 3626 for a 1.627%.
So indeed I did outpost you by a whopping 0.220% in post count. Thumbs Up

But in length of post & lines written…… you would be the sure winner. Wink

So Tom Tom…..
…..your ‘declaration’ is somewhat akin to ‘the pot calling the kettle black’. Big Smile

At least try to be accurate in your future insult attempts Tom Tom…… Beer

As far as “interesting”….. that is subjective & depends on the individual listener. You certainly do not have a final say on that besides your own personal opinion.
……………………………..

sub·jec·tive / 1. based on or influenced by personal feelings, tastes, or opinions:

So your comments on the Samsung LED are what exactly? Pots? kettles? Who cares. Just add some actual value to the discussions to help people make better educated choices if you are going to comment on something specifically like the Samsung triple.

My thoughts that the XPL HI will make a better all around EDC for this light are based on the comments of ToyKeeper (who’s opinion I trust completely) & a few others concerning this light.
Also on the fact that I have many XPL HI lights (including triples) & am pleased with them beyond measure.

Your right….. who cares. Who cares what I think. Who cares what you think. Who cares what Tom Tom thinks.
Like Tom Tom said in a previous post…. “it’s just a bunch of egos blowing hot air.” (quoted below)

Mostly hoping to ‘sell’ or further advance their/our own personal preference and/or opinion I might add.
……
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1332674#comment-1332674

Tom Tom wrote:

This is madness.

(snip, snip [interesting stuff that can be read in the linked post above] snip, snip)

…… it’s just a bunch of egos blowing hot air and achieving nothing. Slowly. Wasting opportunity, time to market, and potentially over-taken by superior products from wily and agile manufacturers.

I’d be exasperated if I was the manufacturer and had to deal with this nonsense.

Sorry if I sound grumpy, but I am.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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teacher
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spaceminions wrote:
I’ve heard doubts aplenty, but the fact is, it’s been nothing but vocal doubts that this amount of light could travel more than a few feet before becoming hopelessly useless. “maybe” under the stove? What, is your stove half a mile across? “Determining the exact color of the boxers(…)”? With that kind of attitude maybe I should determine the exact color of the boot targeted at Uranus. (snip)
Yeah….. I have read a lot of ‘vocalization’ too.

And as far as the “stove & boxer” comments, they were simply in reply to the scenarios you brought up. (quoted below) So no “attitude” as you suggest.

And as far as the “boot” you mention above. That would be a real good idea before you send it in the direction you mention. That way you will have a fond memory of it & the leg attached to it when you awake from your proposed space flight. Wink

spaceminions wrote:

(snip)

I expect an EDC light NOT to let me read billboards 1000ft away, because to do that it has to either produce an unpractical number of lumens, which tends to mean ugly but powerful emitters, or it has to give up at the very least the sort of floody beam that makes it practical at short to medium range outside for not tunnel visioning, for illuminating the underside of a car, the inside of a computer, the space behind/under things, etc. (I had a silicone diffuser for a convoy s; it sucked and eventually I lost it.) As for the color quality, I use the d4 219c to gauge colors of anything I’m considering buying where aesthetics matter and the color is dubious.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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teacher
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Tixx wrote:
teacher wrote:
That may be. But as has been stated by several others, it is doubtful the LH351D will make a good outdoor light or a good all around EDC light.

I have no doubt it will excell at looking for something under the kitchen sink or behind the washing machine, maybe even under the stove.

It will probably do very well determining the exact color of the boxers one is about to buy at the department store or the new living room drapes & carpet.

And as you said this….. “while this is going to have a floody beam, it’s still more than capable of being the dominant source of light versus everything in the nearest 2-300ft when it’s legitimately dark outside” … Personally I do not think it will have a snowballs chance of lighting up much of anything at 300 ft. whether it is legitimately dark outside or not. I do not think it will even come remotely close.

And as far as it “being the dominant source of light” at 300ft…… I find that very hard to believe. I find it hard to believe at way less than 300ft too.

And NO….. I do not care about being able to “read billboards 1000ft away” with this light (FW3A)… that is ridiculous.

But I would hope the FW3A would be a nice all around EDC… both indoors & out.

That…… is why I am hoping the XPL HI makes a miraculous comeback in the poll & wins. I personally am convinced it is & would be the best choice.

My opinion & choice.

Time will tell the outcome. Smile . Thumbs Up

Being one of the few who actually has a Samsung 4000k triple, I would disagree. It makes an excellent EDC and can light up my entire yard and garage.. Stating things like excellent looking under a washer, sink or stove is quite purposefully misleading especially if you personally don’t own something in this configuration. This is not to be confused with a mule configuration that has no optic. This light is using an optic.

The comments I made were simply in response to scenarios spaceminions suggested. (quoted below)
There was no intent to be “misleading” & certainly no intent to be “purposefully misleading” either.
……

spaceminions wrote:

(snip)

I expect an EDC light NOT to let me read billboards 1000ft away, because to do that it has to either produce an unpractical number of lumens, which tends to mean ugly but powerful emitters, or it has to give up at the very least the sort of floody beam that makes it practical at short to medium range outside for not tunnel visioning, for illuminating the underside of a car, the inside of a computer, the space behind/under things, etc. (I had a silicone diffuser for a convoy s; it sucked and eventually I lost it.) As for the color quality, I use the d4 219c to gauge colors of anything I’m considering buying where aesthetics matter and the color is dubious.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||

         Rudeness Level /\ mΩ /\ {width:70%} /\ LightWiki /\ LED Tint Chart /\ LED Tint Picture /\ Xlamp size chart /\ BatteryU                   Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???   wink   /\ TheOriginal /\ TAB /\ LightSearch /\ BatterySearch /\ 14500's /\ DiCal                                                       

Tixx
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teacher wrote:
Tixx wrote:
teacher wrote:
That may be. But as has been stated by several others, it is doubtful the LH351D will make a good outdoor light or a good all around EDC light.

I have no doubt it will excell at looking for something under the kitchen sink or behind the washing machine, maybe even under the stove.

It will probably do very well determining the exact color of the boxers one is about to buy at the department store or the new living room drapes & carpet.

And as you said this….. “while this is going to have a floody beam, it’s still more than capable of being the dominant source of light versus everything in the nearest 2-300ft when it’s legitimately dark outside” … Personally I do not think it will have a snowballs chance of lighting up much of anything at 300 ft. whether it is legitimately dark outside or not. I do not think it will even come remotely close.

And as far as it “being the dominant source of light” at 300ft…… I find that very hard to believe. I find it hard to believe at way less than 300ft too.

And NO….. I do not care about being able to “read billboards 1000ft away” with this light (FW3A)… that is ridiculous.

But I would hope the FW3A would be a nice all around EDC… both indoors & out.

That…… is why I am hoping the XPL HI makes a miraculous comeback in the poll & wins. I personally am convinced it is & would be the best choice.

My opinion & choice.

Time will tell the outcome. Smile . Thumbs Up

Being one of the few who actually has a Samsung 4000k triple, I would disagree. It makes an excellent EDC and can light up my entire yard and garage.. Stating things like excellent looking under a washer, sink or stove is quite purposefully misleading especially if you personally don’t own something in this configuration. This is not to be confused with a mule configuration that has no optic. This light is using an optic.

The comments I made were simply in response to scenarios spaceminions suggested. (quoted below)
There was no intent to be “misleading” & certainly no intent to be “purposefully misleading” either.
……

spaceminions wrote:

(snip)

I expect an EDC light NOT to let me read billboards 1000ft away, because to do that it has to either produce an unpractical number of lumens, which tends to mean ugly but powerful emitters, or it has to give up at the very least the sort of floody beam that makes it practical at short to medium range outside for not tunnel visioning, for illuminating the underside of a car, the inside of a computer, the space behind/under things, etc. (I had a silicone diffuser for a convoy s; it sucked and eventually I lost it.) As for the color quality, I use the d4 219c to gauge colors of anything I’m considering buying where aesthetics matter and the color is dubious.

Oh, took the time to post and blame the other guy for you drawing false conclusions on an LED not even specified by him or handled by you. Yeah, this is definitely a $20,000,000 response. LOL!

MascaratumB
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Fellows, with all due respect, please let’s not turn this GB thread into another rant thread!! OopsSad
It is already hard to follow, sometimes, this flashlight’s development information and the discussions that may elucidate unaware people, like myself!

Thanks for your comprehension Blushing

ON TOPIC:
When this light is out, and looking to it’s characteristics (theoretically), will an unprotected Samsung 30Q or a Sony US18650VTC6 be good to provide the “max” power?
How about the Sanyo NCR18650GA, will they be good enough?
Sorry, but I wanna order some batteries in advance and wanted to know which would be better!

Thanks for the answers, in advance, and the updates on this Thumbs Up

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/\ Thumbs Up

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MascaratumB wrote:
…will an unprotected Samsung 30Q or a Sony US18650VTC6 be good to provide the “max” power?
How about the Sanyo NCR18650GA, will they be good enough? …
My understanding is that the VTC6 is slightly better than the 30Q. So the VTC6 should give best performance.

As the FW3A uses a FET like the D4, it will pretty much pull as many amps as your cell can provide. This means that high drain cells like the 30Q and VTC6 should produce higher peak output than lower drain cells like the GA.

That said, if you run the FW3A in max turbo I expect that it will start ramping down almost immediately, like the D4. Using high-drain cells might not provide as much benefit due to that rampdown.

drjamesfox
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pepinfaxera wrote:
drjamesfox wrote:
I’m interested! Please add me to the list.
You are number No. # 815 on: Interest List , Post # 4 , Page 1 ,
drjamesfox wrote:
Please add me to the list. … # Post of Mon, 11/27/2017 – 05:17
For a total of 1 lights . How many lanterns do you want in total? … x … units? .

Just 1 light please.

Sorry! I forgot I was already on the list.

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I have to unsubscribe from this thread. All this childishness is uncalled for and quite aggravating to read when you are just trying to get info on the progress of the light. Jesus, grown ass men bickering about stuff that hasn’t happen yet. Is that your Pintrest? I will just wait for the light to become available and worry about it then. Shame how a few clowns can make a GB a damn circus.

bansuri
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This light is turning us against each other!!!

The FW3A is my 3rd Group buy, first the ill-fated S42, then the ill-fated SC26, now this. Third time is the charm!

pepinfaxera
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Updated list : … Post moved to Page 130 , http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1337438#comment-1337438

Short list, Last requests .
.
.

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

a_idoux
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pepinfaxera wrote:
a_idoux wrote:
Interested in two. Thanks
You are number No. #1085 and 1086 on: Interest List , Post # 4 , Page 1 ,
a_idoux wrote:
Int. in two lights please! Hope this goes through! … # Post of Mon, 03/19/2018 – 02:40
For a total of 2 lights . How many lanterns do you want in total? … x … units? .

I want two units total. mil gracias por su ayuda pepinfaxera.

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MascaratumB wrote:
Fellows, with all due respect, please let’s not turn this GB thread into another rant thread!! OopsSad
It is already hard to follow, sometimes, this flashlight’s development information and the discussions that may elucidate unaware people, like myself!

Thanks for your comprehension Blushing

ON TOPIC:
When this light is out, and looking to it’s characteristics (theoretically), will an unprotected Samsung 30Q or a Sony US18650VTC6 be good to provide the “max” power?
How about the Sanyo NCR18650GA, will they be good enough?
Sorry, but I wanna order some batteries in advance and wanted to know which would be better!

Thanks for the answers, in advance, and the updates on this Thumbs Up

Don’t order yet, the next technology of batteries may be released before this light Big Smile

xCentrino
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Been a long time since last log in, Glad to see this project still in the works.

Was hoping to have these this year for work, but its all good. Hopefully by next June have these to play with Big Smile

RoloFresh
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So, I want 1 light in total. Totally forgot that I had already commented.

Thanks!

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toddcshoe wrote:
I have to unsubscribe from this thread. All this childishness is uncalled for and quite aggravating to read when you are just trying to get info on the progress of the light.

Ever since post #1 got switched over to a team account there are updates there. So maybe just check post #1 every week or so to see the latest news.

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MascaratumB
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Firelight2 wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
…will an unprotected Samsung 30Q or a Sony US18650VTC6 be good to provide the “max” power?
How about the Sanyo NCR18650GA, will they be good enough? …
My understanding is that the VTC6 is slightly better than the 30Q. So the VTC6 should give best performance.

As the FW3A uses a FET like the D4, it will pretty much pull as many amps as your cell can provide. This means that high drain cells like the 30Q and VTC6 should produce higher peak output than lower drain cells like the GA.

That said, if you run the FW3A in max turbo I expect that it will start ramping down almost immediately, like the D4. Using high-drain cells might not provide as much benefit due to that rampdown.

Thanks for your answer Firelight2 Wink

Tom Tom
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djozz wrote:
RS charges just €2.50 shipping and they arrive overnight from England, so that is my first go-to shop for leds if possible.

Farnell is good too. But good old RadioSpares is a mainstay. Maybe contact them and see if they have any plans to get more options in.

An aside, Sir Rowland Hill invented the modern postage system in 1837.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Postage_stamp

So we have some history in how to do it.

Plus the steam engine, the jet engine, the RR Merlin, RADAR, and the railway (and television).

Edit: and of course atom bombs, rockets that work and hypersonic transport. and the key technology for the Galileo system that will fall apart without us.

The USA of course came up with the Pony Express, but doesn’t seem to have progressed much since.

Night mail (Royal Mail still has a universal service obligation i.e. I can post something here on the south coast at say 5PM and be certain it will arrive in Orkney or the Outer Hebrides the following day, for the same price as sending it a mile down the road.

I don’t even need to put a stamp on, it will get delivered though the recipient will have to pay, which is a bit cheeky.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmciuKsBOi0

It’s more done with planes today (one of my staff used to pilot the night mail plane to Cologne once a week, to keep up his four-engine commercial rating on the BA 146). I tagged along once, which was fun (and co-piloted for a bit, whilst he had a snooze, but don’t tell anyone).

And trains (though it’s all a bit messed up at the moment since a timetable change was introduced a few weeks ago, big-bang style, which isn’t quite working yet, wouldn’t have happened in Switzerland or Japan)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1b9yprvXHA

An amusing observation about the reliability of oil lamps, about nine minutes in.

All in fun,whilst we await developments and evaluations of the B models.

PBWilson
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It’s been a long haul waiting for this light and I’d bet we’ve got a bit more waiting to do, but these latest discussions and seeing the latest sample is getting me excited all over again.

I’ve got little experience with all of the emitters mentioned in this thread but my preference is for warm to neutral tint and flood over throw but I like the idea of offering a couple versions (which might make someone at Lumintop’s head explode with the added complexity) to hopefully satisfy more people’s needs.

That said, this should prove to be a light that makes the flashlight community sit up and take notice. Powerful, small, slick and affordable in one package. We oughta count our blessings whatever they decide.

WalkIntoTheLight
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spaceminions wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

I was cycling last night at 2am in a pretty remote rural area about 25km from home. Clear, no moon, the milky way shining bright overhead, so I knew it was dark. I stopped my bike and turned off my light to see how dark.

Wow! I could not even see the road right underneath me, even after letting my eyes dark adapt for a few minutes. I could make out the tree line where it met the starry sky, but that was it. It was actually rather scary, when I thought, “What would happen if my light broke or I ran out of batteries?” I would have been completely unable to navigate anywhere, even by foot, at least until twilight started to give me some light. (But I carried 4 lights and spare batteries, so I wasn’t worried.)

Any light at 300 ft., even a crappy low-power one, would have easily out-shined any stray light (of which there was virtually none). Even 0.01 lux would have allowed me to see where the road was.

Strange. I can see to walk around by starlight after a short time; of course I might be lucky. I’m sure even those with poor ability to adapt could see better than that after long enough; full adaptation takes much longer than the initial bit- you’d be able to see well enough to walk around after half an hour at worst, because then your rods should be fully recovered. But yeah, even a little illumination would be plenty when it’s truly dark. Many times I’m disappointed with the lowest mode a light offers. And in places with significant stray light, as long as you don’t let yourself get blinded by something bright, you can rely on ambient light some. On a dark night in a rural area, you’ve got to supply all your own light, but it doesn’t have to overpower bright lights to be the dominant source, so best to cover a wider area to avoid tunnel visioning, and of course don’t desensitize yourself too much in case you end up needing that sensitivity. Either way for navigating around I want a nice wide beam, and the beam intensity of today’s triples and quads is still quite a lot, more than enough for that purpose.

I was in a dark area. No stray light pollution from any nearby houses, and the nearest city or town about 100km away.

See the following light pollution map for your nearest dark-sky area:

http://djlorenz.github.io/astronomy/lp2006/overlay/dark.html

It’s really not dark until you’re in the “blue” or darker areas. That means most of the eastern US is not dark.

That said, I didn’t let my eyes fully dark-adapt, so I probably would have made out the road near me if I did fully dark-adapt. That would have taken 20-30 minutes. Still, there’s no way I’d want to be stuck in a dark-sky area without a light.

Tom Tom
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
spaceminions wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

I was cycling last night at 2am in a pretty remote rural area about 25km from home. Clear, no moon, the milky way shining bright overhead, so I knew it was dark. I stopped my bike and turned off my light to see how dark.

Wow! I could not even see the road right underneath me, even after letting my eyes dark adapt for a few minutes. I could make out the tree line where it met the starry sky, but that was it. It was actually rather scary, when I thought, “What would happen if my light broke or I ran out of batteries?” I would have been completely unable to navigate anywhere, even by foot, at least until twilight started to give me some light. (But I carried 4 lights and spare batteries, so I wasn’t worried.)

Any light at 300 ft., even a crappy low-power one, would have easily out-shined any stray light (of which there was virtually none). Even 0.01 lux would have allowed me to see where the road was.

Strange. I can see to walk around by starlight after a short time; of course I might be lucky. I’m sure even those with poor ability to adapt could see better than that after long enough; full adaptation takes much longer than the initial bit- you’d be able to see well enough to walk around after half an hour at worst, because then your rods should be fully recovered. But yeah, even a little illumination would be plenty when it’s truly dark. Many times I’m disappointed with the lowest mode a light offers. And in places with significant stray light, as long as you don’t let yourself get blinded by something bright, you can rely on ambient light some. On a dark night in a rural area, you’ve got to supply all your own light, but it doesn’t have to overpower bright lights to be the dominant source, so best to cover a wider area to avoid tunnel visioning, and of course don’t desensitize yourself too much in case you end up needing that sensitivity. Either way for navigating around I want a nice wide beam, and the beam intensity of today’s triples and quads is still quite a lot, more than enough for that purpose.

I was in a dark area. No stray light pollution from any nearby houses, and the nearest city or town about 100km away.

See the following light pollution map for your nearest dark-sky area:

http://djlorenz.github.io/astronomy/lp2006/overlay/dark.html

It’s really not dark until you’re in the “blue” or darker areas. That means most of the eastern US is not dark.

That said, I didn’t let my eyes fully dark-adapt, so I probably would have made out the road near me if I did fully dark-adapt. That would have taken 20-30 minutes. Still, there’s no way I’d want to be stuck in a dark-sky area without a light.

I am fortunate to have easy access to truly dark sky, from my northern base. Kielder and Galloway. The fewer lumens the better, with spread, not throw.

It’s regulated, this is important, street lamps and other things, as well as some RF stuff that can mess up the radio telescopes.

https://scotland.forestry.gov.uk/forest-parks/galloway-forest-park/dark-...

It is really quite an experience to see truly dark sky, that’s if your frazzled city eyes can cope.

And it would be very rude indeed to shine around an aggressive torch that meets some BLF ideas about “max power”.

Yourrid
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Location: NE ATL

I voted and used my BLF username…

Come on XP-L HI!!!

flashycali
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Posts: 66
Location: So.Cal

Tom Tom wrote:
flashycali wrote:
[
Do your research (USPS.com , UPS.com, Fedex.com etc ) and you will see how expansive it is to ship things internationally from the US .

China on the other hand is the polar opposite, their state owned postal system is highly subsidized to help exporter so it costs much much less to ship things all over the world compared to countries with higher cost of living like the US, UK etc.

I occasionally order things from sellers in the UK, France and Italy. The shipping fee they charged is usually inline with what an US seller would charge to ship across the Atlantic.

Calling shipping charges of US sellers “Daft” is in my opinion an uninformed remark.

On the topic of customs duty on US imports, well that is what your UK government impose on items from the US, it is not something the US seller has any control over.

Just my two cents.

Cheers

From UK (Royal Mail) I can post to USA in 5-7 days for:

20 grams £1.45
100 grams £2.25
2 kilos £13.30

How does that compare ?

When I did a trial shop at digikey for ten LEDs thinking to send them to djozz, they quoted nearly $60 for shipping. Which is ludicrous. And I have to pay duty on the total price including shipping, plus a handling fee of about £8 (there is no escape from duty on USA imports here, it’s a stitch-up between the monopoly US couriers and their counterparts in the UK. Even when the value is below the threshold for personal importation).

It is a real impediment to trade.

Whereas my Chinese stuff always sails through, and if it is from Banggood there is a decent chance it will ship from the EU warehouse (which is in the UK) meaning I get it in 2 days, with no worries. And not using subsidised China post, good old Royal Mail. My MF-01 purchase was a shining example, I had it a couple of weeks before anyone else.

Led4power can ship stuff anywhere from Croatia (which is not in the EU) for minimal fees.

The Netherlands decided to become the centre for EU post some years ago, by subsidising and gaming the reciprocal postage agreements, for a while all my business post was sent from Amsterdam, but that got stopped, they were taking the micky.

Postage charges are very important for trade, sadly the USA doesn’t recognise this, and leaves it to the “free market” AKA monopolist businesses. Who are either hideously inefficient, or creaming off immense profits.

Rant over.

I’ve officially lost interest in this discussion since apparently you mind is made up on who’s the blame for the high shipping cost you have to endure when buying directly from an US company like Digikey.

One useful piece of information I can contribute is, did you know Digikey has an EU presence just for folks like yourself?

Go to www.digikey.co.uk and enjoy free shipping for orders over £33.

Enjoy the free shipping, live long and prosper.

GalaxyWide
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Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 05/11/2018 - 15:26
Posts: 4
Location: United States
pepinfaxera wrote:
GalaxyWide wrote:
Interested in one, possibly 2.
I’ll give you one. Please say how many you want. How many lanterns do you want in total? … x … units? .

Put me down for just 1 right now, looks like you already did. Thanks!

WalkIntoTheLight
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Posts: 1582
Location: Canada

Tom Tom wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

I was in a dark area. No stray light pollution from any nearby houses, and the nearest city or town about 100km away.

See the following light pollution map for your nearest dark-sky area:

http://djlorenz.github.io/astronomy/lp2006/overlay/dark.html

It’s really not dark until you’re in the “blue” or darker areas. That means most of the eastern US is not dark.

I am fortunate to have easy access to truly dark sky, from my northern base. Kielder and Galloway. The fewer lumens the better, with spread, not throw.

It’s regulated, this is important, street lamps and other things, as well as some RF stuff that can mess up the radio telescopes.

https://scotland.forestry.gov.uk/forest-parks/galloway-forest-park/dark-...

It is really quite an experience to see truly dark sky, that’s if your frazzled city eyes can cope.

And it would be very rude indeed to shine around an aggressive torch that meets some BLF ideas about “max power”.

Yes, that looks like well into the blue area of the dark sky map I linked. Similar to where I was a couple of nights ago. There are some parks I’ve been to that are a shade or two darker than the blue areas, but they’re a couple of hundred kilometers away so I rarely get there. I’d like to go to even darker areas, but those are a long way from civilization, mostly in mid-northern parts of Canada where you can’t even get to by road. I think there are some equally good areas like that in the deserts of the US, and certainly much easier to get to.

It’s a shame that most people in industrial parts of the world will never get to see the stars under a truly dark sky.

manithree
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Posts: 266
Location: Orem, UT

WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
See the following light pollution map for your nearest dark-sky area:

http://djlorenz.github.io/astronomy/lp2006/overlay/dark.html

It’s really not dark until you’re in the “blue” or darker areas. That means most of the eastern US is not dark.

That’s a great map, thanks! Bookmarked.

My wife’s family has a cabin that’s outside the blue in the light gray, and over 9,000 ft elevation. The sky is amazing at night.

WalkIntoTheLight
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Joined: 12/05/2015 - 10:26
Posts: 1582
Location: Canada

manithree wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
See the following light pollution map for your nearest dark-sky area:

http://djlorenz.github.io/astronomy/lp2006/overlay/dark.html

It’s really not dark until you’re in the “blue” or darker areas. That means most of the eastern US is not dark.

That’s a great map, thanks! Bookmarked.

My wife’s family has a cabin that’s outside the blue in the light gray, and over 9,000 ft elevation. The sky is amazing at night.

Altitude has a huge benefit, if you want to see the stars. Gets rid of most of that humid air that makes the stars look dimmer.

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