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Thrunite TC20 - XHP70 - 3800lm

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SKV89
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JasonWW wrote:
That’s a nice bit higher than what Newlumen measured.

3200 @ 30 secs compared to 3500 at turn on.

I think you both used Shockli batteries, though I’m not sure which models or if that matters.

SKV89, did the lumens hold up well after 30 seconds or did it drop a noticeable amount?

I took a measurement at 30s. Surprisingly this time turn on lumen was about 20 lumens higher (I’m guessing due to a cold battery vs warm battery fresh off charger). After 30s with a stopwath, it dropped to the same 3,530 lumens applying the 0.68 calibration factor.

I’m pretty sure we are using the same Shockli 26650 5500mah.

Stereodude
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SKV89 wrote:
I’m pretty sure we are using the same “Shockli 26650 5500mah”:http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id....

So it works okay with 65mm long flat unprotected 26650 cells? They’re not too short to maintain good contact? They don’t suffer from momentary circuit disconnections if you shake the light or jar it when it’s on?

SKV89
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I haven’t noticed any problems yet. Only problems I’ve noticed is that it shuts off on turbo randomly but the problem went away after I cleaned the battery and springs with rubbing alcohol.

Newlumen
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SKV89 wrote:
I haven’t noticed any problems yet. Only problems I’ve noticed is that it shuts off on turbo randomly but the problem went away after I cleaned the battery and springs with rubbing alcohol.

Will you able to test the lumen with the tc20? I will do the same.

SKV89
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But mine is a TC20vn with a Mouser ordered XHP70.2 4000k 80CRI M4 bin. Though the vn version is just a tiny bit brighter than the stock because I’m guessing the stock is on a higher emitter bin. I sold my stock one to a friend. Maybe I can get him to bring it over for testing one day.

Edit: oh I just remembered my stock is NW and yours is probably CW so it’s not a direct comparison too. I have some lights being modded by TA right now so I’ll ask him to give me lumen readings on the lower modes for calibration. You might want to do the same to get the best calibration.

charles lin
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SKV89 wrote:

My TC20vn measures about 2% brighter than my stock TC20 (which I just sold to a friend) using the same fully charged battery on the TA lumen tube. My TC20vn uses the 4000k XHP70.2 M4 bin from Mouser. It’s not the same batch as the one used by TA for his MT09R mods. The Mouser one is an ugly yellow.

Did you use 3-step XHP70.2 M440G?
SKV89
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2 step 440H same as the one TA used but the tint is ugly yellow in the Mouser version. Far more yellow than the one used in the MT09RTA

Newlumen
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Here are the result.. I did get correct rating for the thrunite catapult v6.. i only got 3200 lumen for my tc20..

D1_DB64_A8-_C2_B0-428_F-_BF0_C-_E31_E6033_D5_F0
post image

B7155464-6_D6_F-4_FE1-9_A99-6_E992_A8_BDBF7

JasonWW
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Newlumen wrote:
Here are the result.. I did get correct rating for the thrunite catapult v6.. i only got 3200 lumen for my tc20..

D1_DB64_A8-_C2_B0-428_F-_BF0_C-_E31_E6033_D5_F0
post image

B7155464-6_D6_F-4_FE1-9_A99-6_E992_A8_BDBF7


Newlumen, are you using one size too small centering disc on your tube? The flashlight should be going through the hole maybe 5mm to 10mm to get the highest reading.
Newlumen
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JasonWW wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
Here are the result.. I did get correct rating for the thrunite catapult v6.. i only got 3200 lumen for my tc20..

D1_DB64_A8-_C2_B0-428_F-_BF0_C-_E31_E6033_D5_F0
post image

B7155464-6_D6_F-4_FE1-9_A99-6_E992_A8_BDBF7


Newlumen, are you using one size too small centering disc on your tube? The flashlight should be going through the hole maybe 5mm to 10mm to get the highest reading.

I tried the big hole and its the same.. it gives me somewhere 3200 lumen.

I tested the fenix tk35ue, 3200 lumen light. I just got 3500 lumen.

Texas_Ace
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SKV89 wrote:
2 step 440H same as the one TA used but the tint is ugly yellow in the Mouser version. Far more yellow than the one used in the MT09RTA

IIRC, I tried those at one point and noticed the same thing. I purchased a dozen different XHP70.2’s when I was searching for a good combo of tint and output before settling on the 440H I have been using.

Texas_Ace
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JasonWW wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
Here are the result.. I did get correct rating for the thrunite catapult v6.. i only got 3200 lumen for my tc20..

D1_DB64_A8-_C2_B0-428_F-_BF0_C-_E31_E6033_D5_F0
post image

B7155464-6_D6_F-4_FE1-9_A99-6_E992_A8_BDBF7


Newlumen, are you using one size too small centering disc on your tube? The flashlight should be going through the hole maybe 5mm to 10mm to get the highest reading.

If the light just rests on the edge of the ring then it can work fine. It is pretty easy to hole the centering ring up to the light and make sure it does not cover up the reflector.

As long as no / very little reflector is covered, the numbers will be very close.

Stereodude
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I received my “neutral white” TC20 yesterday. I ordered from the Thrunite website with the 20% off coupon and it shipped to me from Amazon with Sunday delivery.

It’s not very neutral IMHO. It’s definitely on the very cool end of neutral. It’s not as cold as a CW light, but it’s noticeably cooler in tint than all my other neutral lights. If it were any cooler I’d be returning it. The “neutral white” Catapult V6 I received from them yesterday is similarly cool.

DB Custom
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The whole NW thing, Neutral means it doesn’t have a tint lean one way or another, or that’s what Neutral means to me. There’s a lot of folks calling warm white neutral these days, with a yellow to orange tint, sometimes even almost incandescent, still being called neutral. I call that warm. And those get pulled immediately on any light I get. 3A tint is about as warm as I care to deal with. 3D in a particular instance, but I don’t even use those much.

Stereodude
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DB Custom wrote:
The whole NW thing, Neutral means it doesn’t have a tint lean one way or another, or that’s what Neutral means to me. There’s a lot of folks calling warm white neutral these days, with a yellow to orange tint, sometimes even almost incandescent, still being called neutral. I call that warm. And those get pulled immediately on any light I get. 3A tint is about as warm as I care to deal with. 3D in a particular instance, but I don’t even use those much.

I wouldn’t say it’s necessarily tinted. I’d say definitely say it has a higher than desired CCT for a neutral light.

Edit: My colorimeter says the Catapult V6 is 4650K (x=.357, y=.369). The HC20 is 4800K (x=.352, y=.368). My Nichia 219B P60 drop-in that is one of my faves is 4380K (x=.364, y=.361). My NW Eagletac GX30A3D is 4050K (x=.378, y=.376). An ugly CW flashlight I have Sunwayman D40A is a awful 7200K (x=.304, y=.312). In comparison to that, the HC20 looks quite lovely.

During daylight hours now in the house it doesn’t seem as cool as it did last night.

aginthelaw
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i bumped my tc20 and it shut off. i turned it back on and bumped it against my hand it shut off again. i have liitokala’s in there. guess i should move up to something longer?

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JasonWW
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aginthelaw wrote:
i bumped my tc20 and it shut off. i turned it back on and bumped it against my hand it shut off again. i have liitokala’s in there. guess i should move up to something longer?

Like a protected cell? I would not do that. Maybe the tail spring can be pulled out/sretched to make it longer?

Your driver spring isn’t overly compressed, is it?

aginthelaw
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Doesn’t appear compressed at all

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Newlumen
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Oh yea, by the way i got 3510 lumen @ turn on for the tc20 cw. Thrunite factory spec is 3800.. so its pretty consistent..

Aginthelaw, i recommend unprotected.. from my testing, unprotected tend to stay on the turbo mode longer than protected..

robo819
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The protection circuit is easily removed from the cell that comes with the TC20. Just grab it on the edges of the circuit board itself with some pliers and pull upward while putting pressure to one side , kind of an angle and the circuit board will pop right up. Then sand the little sharp edges smooth and the cell works fine in the light.

I do suggest if you do this be sure to have an extra battery wrap handy and an insulator . as the whole positive end is exposed after you do this , so the negative part is also exposed on the same end and a possible short is likely if not properly insulated.

Here are the cells from my V6 and the TC20 both that I took the circuits off of and both work fine without solder blobs or anything.

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Guys, what is the size and value of current sense resistor?
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SKV89
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Does anyone know how many volts goes to the emitter? I want to mod it with a 4x E21A from Clemence. Thanks.

komeko
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6V

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SKV89
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Nice thanks!

DB Custom
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Well, not exactly 6V, more like 6.3 or so, it will vary as the driver tries to keep up with the thermal demands on the emitter and such. Changing the load on the driver may well end up with different results (different requirements from the new emitters)

komeko
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I think SKV89 asked about 6V or 12V and not about exact values. I changed the emitter on MT-G2 myself and checked it from this angle. It is known that the exact voltage value will depend on the emitter parameters.

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The TC20 code expired for 20% off. Does anyone know a decent savings code? I only found one for 5% off which saves five dollars.

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