I’d hardly call my Q8 scorching after a minute of turbo with spring bypasses and Luxeon Vs. Stock it never got hot at all even after several minutes just warm to the touch and I clocked mine in around 4500. All temp regulation off. After bypasses it gets warm a lot faster, but still nothin like the Emisar D4.
With a modified battery carrier we can even build a XHP50 or XHP35 version with a single tube easily.
… and with both tubes I could build a super bright (and heavy) version of my Janus 
Maybe it’ll be a Hi-C can light next…
Thorfirn? Sorfire?
We need Maury to give a DNA test.
I like when he dials up the drama…
Yep… Q8 - v.HI-C …. :+1: … 
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I like it Lightbringer….
Oooh good idea.
BLF Q8 HI-C edition.
:+1: … …. /\
Why don't I have a rope to hang on such a long thing, so heavy and heavy? I have to carry 8 18650 batteries with me. I think this design is a failure
I wanted to get carryers for modding from the beginning, but the team has declined becaus it should be SRK-Style.
Now, that would be great.
And we will see, how the carryers could be modified. There seems to be only the center bar, which could be used to make Bat+ contact from the end to the top. The other bars are used for battery- or ground.
So with different carryer PCBs it should be possible to make a 2S2P or 4S1P variant.
Ok, now we have a MCPCB for XHP50, we’ll hopefully soon have the new battery tubes, now I need an affordable source for well binned XHP50 or XHP50.2 in neutral or maybe warm white. Are XHP50.2 suitable at all for a FET driver? I guess I have read somewhere they have a lower forward voltage than XHP50.
Any recommendation from the LED guru(s)?
This is a good question but not because of the voltage. I have a XHP50.2 running fine without driver on 2 high drain 18650 batteries so at least some XHP50.2 leds can handle that. But I had one dying at much lower current in a light with 3A boost driver from KD. Something with a sensitivity for unseen voltage spikes?, I don’t know. At least the Q8 will not use a boost driver but a simple direct FET driver, could be advantageous for the XHP50.2
Great news for several reasons. Thanks for the heads up BSM.
I’ve been patiently waiting 9 months for a simple CW version to be offered for sale.
Is 5700K to 6000K too much to ask for?
We (the Q8 team) had a flashlight made with one very well thought-over led choice for simplicity of the process. We never intended to proceed the Q8 project after that with extra versions, so just waiting for a cool white version to spontaneously happen was not a very favorable approach.
But now that Sofirn is involved that may be different, they tend to listen to what is popular on BLF. So ask them for a cool white version and convince them that it will sell.
Reflow these and enjoy:
I can’t reflow stuff. To send the mcpcb off to be reflowed costs way too much.
Don’t you have an electric skillet?It work wonderfully with reflowing MCPCBs.
Buy yourself a 10$ one like I did, and you will be off to cool white land.
Along with some solder paste of course.
I use an even worse setup and it works every time.
I have an induction cooktop and use a super old rusty one of these with knife marks on it. I dont recommend it because when it gets hot and cools off the center has a tendency to “pop” in and out with temp changes.
I spent so much time on this project that I feel like a Q8 Team Member.
Remember back when it was said that once the group buy was over Thorfire would take over and possible rename the light and do whatever they wanted? I was really hoping they would add a CW option. It seemed like a no brainer as the majority of flashlight buyers in the world (excluding BLF and CPF) prefer CW.
At this point in time I have no idea if a CW version would sell. I may be the only person in the world that wants this, but I’m not willing to pay double the price to modify it. I don’t need it that badly. I’ll just wait and see what Sofirn does.
Being a novice to all of this stuff I find soldering e-switch wires (or anything for that matter) 1000x harder to do than reflowing. If you practice once or twice with the right solder paste and an old MCPCB I have no doubt u can figure it out.