My pleasure Lionheart. :+1:
I would like to see that comparison myself…….
Thanks pinkpanda. If I understand you correctly you are saying the 5000K picture shows more realistic background & foreground colors? Is that correct??
I hear what you are saying about color choice to. :+1: I guess that speaks to personal preference, as I would never, on purpose; choose anything warmer than 5000K for an EDC.
Who doesn’t want to escape the cold reality. Nothing wrong with looking at the world with a bit of (4000k) warmth.
:+1: . Exactly, nothing wrong with that at all. 
Just as there is nothing wrong with looking at it in beautiful 5000K illumination. 
Or whatever one’s preference is for that matter.
There is no right or wrong…… just personal preference.
On my phone and computer screen the 4000K makes the green and blue look correct, and the white looks closest to the correct color. I obviously have no idea about the background.
Ok…. :+1: . On mine I can tell very little difference in the containers. If anything, parts of the 5000K picture look more vivid to me. But the backgrounds & foreground are totally different.
As I understand the algorithm, this also produces the same result:
- 1st choice: 219c, LH351D, XP-L HI
- 2nd choice: XP-G2, XP-G3
Only the order matters, and putting something in last place is absolutely not a vote for it. Furthermore, this:
- 1st choice: 219C, LH351D
- 2nd choice: XP-L HI
- 3rd choice: XP-G2, XP-G3
votes for the XP-L HI over the other Cree emitters just as much as ranking it first does. Only the order matters, and this still says XP-L HI > (XP-G2, XP-G3).
Finally, though this software doesn’t support it, it is possible to allow leaving options not favored off the ballot with this algorithm; the effect would be the same as ranking them last.
Proto one was
Abmessungen Klipp FW3A Proto 1:
Innendurchmesser: 23.1mm (inner diameter)
Außendurchmesser: 26.1mm (outer)
Material: 0.8mm (thickness)
Länge vom abgeknickten Teil (innen) bis zum Auflagepunkt: 42.5mm
(length to resting point)
As I understand it though, it’s possible to give dishonest rankings in order to have a stronger effect on the result; I won’t explain how in too much detail.
Don’t explain how to do that (gaming). I could easily, but I won’t.
Yes, you keep making that very clear.
“Guys, I know exactly how murder someone and get away with it, but I’d never do that.”
I think TK would easily catch me out. She’s much too clever to be fooled by an obvious ploy.
5000k Samsung ………. 4000K Samsung
So is that a brown wall, brown shutter, and brown floor as the 4000K makes it look, or is there a white floor, blue/grey shutter and oatmeal wall, as the 5000K shows?
This is what makes me wonder why anyone has a preference for high cri in a warm cct, if it makes everything that does not have a stark colour look brown, what use is the cri? To me it is like having a magnificent variety in your exotic fish tank, and preferring to keep the water dirty.
:+1: - :question:
Far too much green gum (how much do you chew ?)
Did you leave your camera on auto white balance ? Seems to have tried to keep the green gum green (typical behaviour, the natural world is mostly green, so digicams are biased to make it look so)
Not that this means much, use you’re eyes.
By the way, there is a lot more colour in the 4000K shot, even though it is completely wonky.
High CRI makes photos look brownish, but that is not what happens in reality. Photo’s are a pretty poor way of showing tint, let go CRI. (but admittedly there is nothing else on the internet).
… :+1: … Interesting analogy, +1… 
Tom Tom they’re not my photos (or my gum), read higher up in the thread
I personally want to try to choose the highest efficacy for eye-strain sensitive individuals such as myself, definitely planning on its use as a bike light around others.
Having said that, and seeing other’s opinions. I was wondering the efficacy values per watt (Lux/watt) in a 1m square 15m from the light with the different emitters.
Assuming it’s the XPL-hi, and that many on the list are quite vocal of the color rendering characteristics, and some wanting warmer and cooler light,
I am of the assumption that the end result is going to be a tail-switch throwier handheld version of an armytek wizard XHP50 warm, or at least the wizard’s color temp is bang-on, cooler but not too cool compared to an xpl-5D I’ve seen in my brothers blf a6.
Would an XPL-4D or 4C or 5A1/A2 or 5B1/B2, XPLAWT-H0-0000-000LV20E4
be of consideration for the emitter choice?
The differences you are seeing in the photo is based on white balance of the camera (4500k)
the LED that is a higher color temp than the white balance, looks whiter, bluer, cooler
the LED that is a lower color temp than the white balance, looks browner, yellower, warmer
There is no one True White. It changes based on how closely the LED color temperature, matches the white balance of the users brain at the time.
People who have been in the sun, have their brains auto white balance set to 5500k, so they will prefer 5000k led to 4000k led, at that time. Myself included.
otoh, people who have been sitting under incandescent light (3000k), and whose brain has auto white balanced to that color temperature (takes over 30 minutes for our brain to lower it white balance), will prefer 4000k instead of 5000k, because the 5000k will be too blue.
If Im working on a car in the sun, I prefer 5000k (or even 6000k), and hate 4000k
otoh, my home lighting is 3000k, and when my brain has had time to white balance itself to that color temperature, I HATE 6000K (AND 5000k), and I much prefer 4000k.
I notice that I like my flashlight to be close to, or slightly above the CCT that my brain has adapted its white balance to.
When I wake in the dark for a toilet run, I prefer 3000k, find 4000k too harsh, glaring, blueish, and I wont use 5000k or 6000k at all.
The rule of thumb is to choose a flashlight that is not warmer than the white balance of the users brain at the time.
since I actually seldom work on cars, my need for 5000k or 6000k is rare.
since I live under incandescent light, when I use a flashlight at night, I find 5000k or 6000k unnecessarily cool, and prefer 4000k, so I usually buy 4000k more than 5000k, but I like to have a range of choices for the different environments and ambient light situations I use a flashlight in.
Since the majority of my use is at night, if I had to pick 4000k or 5000k, I would go with 4000k.
But if the majority of my use was during daylight, I would choose 5000k.
What I actually do, is I edc 5000k during the day, and 4000k at night.
on my nightstand is a 3000k light, that I prefer when I wake in the dark. I dont usually edc 3000k, because it is not as versatile as 4000k.
I edc 4000k more often than 5000k, because most of my use is at night, when Im adapted to incandescent.
choices are good. It is useful to carry a flashlight that is not warmer than the white balance of my brain, at the time of use.
when I use warmer light, I also tend to use lower lumens, and when I need higher lumens, I tend to also be using cooler light.
So, I would buy a 4000k Samsung, and a 5000k Samsung, both in 90 CRI. I wont settle for Low CRI, at any color temperature.
Low CRI, and also low R9 CRI, make reds look brown.
It is easy for low CRI to illuminate green and blue things, those are not a challenge for an LED. The Challenge color for an LED is RED
which of these two red things look more brown:
the top one is more brown, it is the 5000k. That tells me the bottom light, 4000k has more CRI, or more R9 CRI (the saturated RED portion of the CRI indexes)
However, both of those lights are 80 CRI, and both could do a better job of showing more Red, and less brown