Review - Imalent RT70 XHP 70.2 5,500 Lumen Monster!!!

If I’m not mistaken hasn’t a good bit of imalent lights been a good bit underspec? Maybe a couple other people can test them. If they all test like that then we know

I dont have the equipment to measure lumens however with my ceiling bounce test it blew away other flashlights that I’ve tested before. The outdoor performance was amazing too, it’s significantly brighter than anything else I’ve tested. I cant be sure that it is above 5,000 but it wouldn’t surprise me if it was thereabouts. What batteries did your friend use?

I’m interested in lexels response. But just my opinion if lexel says it underperforms I believe him 100% that guy knows his stuff. And has contributed so much info to this forum. Even if yours made 4000 lumens 5500 wouldn’t seem a whole lot brighter to the naked eye. Even if he used crappy cells which I highly highly doubt. For test everyone uses high drain cells. Even with crappy cells as long as they can do 4 or 5 amps it would power it long enough for 30 seconds on Max. I doubt it’s drawing more then 20 amps. Probably not that much.
From what I’ve seen on other lights from imalent they never reach their specs. Look for yourself on the last 4 or so high powered lights. I’d still like to own this one though even if it under performs. I’m sure lexel could design me a driver for it. It’s just to expensive right now. When the mt07s can hit 5000 lumens for 46 dollars. And has 4s driver in it. Which means it gives that 5000 lumens until the light shuts off. The voltage never drops low enough to not provide full power. Like with 2s2p drivers. The one thing I like about this head is bigger and the bezel isn’t glued with a shaved dome and a lexels driver this light has major potential to be a monster. Like 7000 to 9000 lumen monster

You questioned whether/not it be AR-coated glass. If it’s hideously green, it likely is.

I actually don’t use some lights anymore because of that sickly green tint. It nasty.

But yeah, while I’m not so much a “tint snob” (getting there, but not quite yet), I despise green-tints. It’s even worse than Angry Blue™ or Angry Purple™.

So, yeah, green is a sore point to a lot of people, myself included. It could ruin an otherwise amazing light.

Dunno about anyone else, but I get squeamish with even a 2S arrangement in an L2 using unprotected cells. 4S seems that much more to go off-balance with whatever cell might be the weak link. And protection needs to be high-amperage to not also be the limiting factor.

Not as bad as you think. I’ve had a cell not make contact and it ran off 3 cells. Before I removed those spacers it just effected the run time. Unless your over heating the cells to 150c all that will happen is shortened run time. The driver won’t get enough voltage it runs what it can until it can’t. I had to remove the spacers to get proper contact sometimes only 2 would make connection when it dropped out of turbo in a couple minutes I could tell something was wrong. Cells weren’t anything past warm they just gave what they could. Lithium is safer then people give it credit for. Worst case scenario for your name brand cell is a vent, no flame or explosion. Direct short no flame or explosion. Over charged at 12v and 10 amps for hours same result. Heated to 150c for hours at 5c per minute no flame no explosion. Shaken violently and dropped on oak boards. Crushed laterally and vertically. No flame or explosion. Every spec sheet has the results of the test for the cell. Pretty much have to throw them in fire. Get them around 450 degrees Fahrenheit and you’ll get a nice bang. So I don’t worry to much. Even with my 2 series 6 amp L2 with dedomed xpl v6 1a Just stick with name brand cell that have gone through the united nations regulations for safety.

Example people freak out when a cell goes to 2.5 or lower. Most LG cells get there mah rating by being discharged to 2.0 volt. In the 25r spec sheet they pulse discharge it at 30,45,60,95 amps and do a cycle life test and they discharge it to 1.5volts each cycle. I’ve recovered hundreds of 1v cells out of tool packs as well with no problem use them a couple hundred cycles and recycle them back. The hype doesn’t live up the real life. When there is a incident they make as much hype they can about it. And it’s “usually”cheap old technology Chinese cells that cut corners andbhave no cid or ptc inside the cell. Even with the dangerous Chinese cells. To only have a handful on instances yearly to the amount of lithium batteries and devices is less then a .001 failure rate. To the billions of batteries made yearly

The only cell I’ve had a problem with was a Imedion nihm with about 30 cycles on it. Turned my nitecore ea41 on low about 2 seconds later it vented and bubbled my switch up. I’m talking the lowest mode the moon light from off button. I was pissed and never bought that brand again.

Was that for me or someone else?

I’m not concerned about having a Li cell go supernova, mainly just ruining it and making me buy a new one. :confounded:

Figure if anything, it’d just vent and blow out the switch-button or something.

I never understood the big fuss about how far a cell gets discharged when rating its capacity. I’ve watched my almighty and not-quite-almighty chargers run down a cell for hours as it hangs in the upper-3s for so long, but from 3.2V on, it nosedives, and from 3.0V down, I can actually watch the voltage-readings decrease in realtime. So out of, say, 3000mAH cutting off at 2.8V, discharging it a whopping 2min more down to 2.5V (or 2.0V) might scare up a few dozen mAH, but that’s it. To me, it’s statistical noise.

But, after having weak-link alkaleaks take a dump in my lights after getting reverse-charged, etc., I just plain don’t want to brick a perfectly good Li cell by running it down so far. A Crapfire cell, who cares?, but a nice shiny 30Q or VTC6? Nah.

Wouldn’t have it if it were given to me. Luggy, unattractive, expensive, fugly beam pattern, step-down, and below spec performance. Blah!

Thanks for the review, though!

HELLO ,I WRITE FROM ITALY ,SO I BUY THIS FLASHLIGHT A FEW WEEKS AGO AND I SEE AFTER A FEW DAY , THAT WHEN I USE TURBO MODE THE FLASHLIGHT TURNS OFF!!! I WANT TO ASK YOU INSTEAD IMALENT ORIGINAL BATTERIES ,WHAT OTHER BATTERIES I CAN USE TO REPLACE THE ORIGINAL IMALENT 3000MAH 15 A =?MORE POWERFUL =?

Hi!

The Imalent batteries are really more than powerful enough for the single XHP70.2 emitter. The cells (Samsung 30Q) are 15A rated, but can handle more current for a brief moment.
I think you have a problem with the flashlight if it cannot stay in turbo mode, not with the batteries.

SO ,I DONT’T KNOWN IF IS PROBLEM OF FLASHLIGHT I TOUGHT THAT WAS IN REVERSE ,BUT THE FLASHLIGHT IS ABOUT 3 WEEK THAT I BUY IT!

I assume batteries are fully charged. Maybe some batteries’ protection kicked in because voltage is too low. You could check individual battery voltage just to be sure. But there is unfortunately also the possibility that the light is faulty.

i HOPE THAT LIGHT IS NOT FAULTY ….I BUY IT IN SPAIN !!!I AM TRYING TO DISCHARGE AND CHARGE THE BATTERIES THE SECOND TIME !!!

Blinking before turning off sounds like LVP kicking in.

You using flat-top cells or button-top cells?

How many are loaded? All 4?

ORIGINAL BATTERIES IMALENT THAT ARE BUTTON TOP !I CHARGE IT WITH NITECORE UM4 CHARGER NOT WITH THE CHARGER ORIGINAL MAGNETIC ….BUT IT SEEMS THAT WHEN I AM INSIDE HOME TURBO WORK ,BUT OUTSIDE IT TURN OFF

Poor connection? Cleaning contacts on both the light and batteries with rubbing alcohol works miracles in many cases when I experience turbo issues.

+1 :+1: :beer:

I CAN TRY TO CLEAN WITH ALCOHOL ,I DON’T UNDERSTAND WHY ONLY TURBO MODE GET PROBLEM , INSTEAD IN THE 3 4 MODE NO PROBLEM , I ’D LIKE TO TRY OTHER BATTERIES !!!

Can i have a photo of the batteries that used for the rewiev of this flashlight?