FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Also darker eye color is the major factor for low wear levels in the eye after a certain age. Dark pigments in iris tend to absorb light much more.

So if you have blue, green eyes they need to be protected 2X carefully.

Especially for people who have blonde retinas or are otherwise photosensitive.

I can see pretty well at night, even with only a tenth of a lumen lighting a whole room, but I’m basically blind during the day unless I use dark sunglasses.

Ok that was just rude and uncalled for.

/\ … Yep…. :+1:

I am opposite to jon on the CCT for indoor/outdoors; outdoors in a throwy light too cool of a color temperature is more than useless; it will make such a noticable beam in any haze at all that it is hard to see past it to the thing I want to look at. I would rather a neutral-warm color with fair to good rendering so that I can tell the difference as zak puts it “between a stick and a snake”; the better the color quality the less harsh and difficult to interpret its light seems to be, though actual brightness is not unimportant. Though for the most distance or for locating rogue helicopters or trees, I suppose even a low color quality will suffice.

Please add me for 1 more - for a total of 2.

Thank you

I will take two :slight_smile:

What was?

It is gone now Nev. It was a ‘comment’ replying to your thoughts about Nichia emitters. :wink:
I quoted your comment below to refresh your memory. :wink:
I agree with you also…… :smiley:
.

Oh, ok , thanks teacher ,it is just my opinion,my favourite tint is 5700k (zebralight H600f)
I have a few warm & neutral lights & I don’t like any of them except the blf gt.

Please put me down for 1. Looks great!

Hm, I never sliced a LED

Q: djozz from here

Off white desk, greenish background to the left and grey to the right.

Camera set to 4500k manual settings for both shots. That gum is over a couple years.

Definitely good to hear no matter the LED (A and D are definitely my preference)

IMO, lights that use FET drivers make poor choices for bike lights. I used to use a BLF A6 that uses a FET+1 driver, but in any bright mode (more than about 150 lumens) it dims as the battery drains. I know the FW3A is supposed to use more 7135 chips, but I don’t believe it will maintain constant output. All my Convoys that use 8x7135 chips, still dim significantly as the battery voltage goes down. Not as bad as FET, but still very noticeable. Maybe the FW3A will do things better than Convoy, but I wouldn’t rely on that.

I now use a Zebralight SC600w MkIV Plus as my bike light. I normally use it at 700 lumens, and that will provide me a regulated 700 lumen output for almost 3 hours (using a Sanyo GA cell). If I go up to 2300 lumens, it will go up that high, regardless of the battery voltage. And when going downhill on gravel or dirt, I want that full 2300 lumens.

You need a light with a good boost driver if you want regulated output. For me, that’s very important when cycling. I don’t want to start out at 700 lumens, only to have it gradually dim to 400 lumens over my ride.

Please add me for 2. Thanks.

Please add me for 2. Th
anks.

In UK/EU there are strict regulations about bike lights and reflectors, the German ones being the tightest.

They have been drawn up for good reason, with a lot of study. We ride bikes a lot more than in some other regions and have some experience of how to do it properly, on the road, mixed with faster transport.

If you don’t have at least a legal front and rear light with certification markings, and a full set of reflectors including pedals, then get wiped out by a motor vehicle, the insurers will probably persuade the court to reduce compensation by 50%

Other EU countries have a blanket policy, any such collision is always the drivers fault, no matter how stupidly the cyclist has behaved.

My point being that an A6 or FW3A is never going to be a suitable cycle light. Fundamental point, it doesn’t emit anything 90 degrees sideways, crucial to avoid side-road car main-road bike collisions (sorry mate, I didn’t see you as we say).

And the A6 etc. bikelight flashy mode is illegal here (detail: “The 2005 RVLR amendment meant that it was now legal to have a flashing light on a pedal cycle, provided it flashed between 60 and 240 times per minute (1 – 4Hz).”

To protect photosensitive epileptics.

I was sent a couple of extreme power “bike lights” by Thorfire to evaluate, but had to explain to them that whilst great for off-road, they would never be legal on-road anywhere in UK/EU, and they would have to get suitable certification. They were really good, but that project never went further.

But they would be suitable off road.