You should first check that all the pins make proper contact. You picture shows that, except for RESET (pin 1) and MOSI (pin 5) all relevant pins are connected somewhere on the PCB, so you won't have to probe the chip's pins with needles or something like that. Also make sure that the target receives power from the programmer and maybe check whether the PCB still works. Applying Vcc to the wrong pins might have fried the chip.
If you can find no problem there, it might be that the chip has its clock fuses set to 1MHz or less. In that case you will have to tell avrdude to use a slower bit clock. Default is set at ~1µs and it's suitable for clock speeds of 4MHz and up. Try -B 0.25 or 0.1 (if your programmer is based on the USBasp, you might need to set a jumper somewhere to enable programming of slow clocked targets).
Still nothing. I don't have the AK-47 board hooked up to anything yet, so I can't really check to see if still works, but I did put my NANJG 106 driver back together and it still works (kind of; Low and Medium seem to be the same thing now). I tried the bit rate thing and still got the same error. I also tried soldering to the legs of the Atmel chip and that was pretty hopeless. I actually got one wire on there pretty easily, but when I tried to put a wire next to it, they were bridged. Instead of a clip, it seem like it would be better to have a housing that fits over the chip with wires where each leg goes. Then you could clamp the housing down to make sure there was good contact. Theoretically the clip should work just fine, but it seems so poorly made. Some of the pins are loose so when you pull on the crimped joiner the whole pin comes out of the clip.
OK, brted, I'm slowly starting up now, the USBISP driver and WinAVR is now installed on my XP workstation.
I'm about to make the connections between the plug on the clip and that on the USBISP. I think we have bought the same gear so you can check against this:
It seems like you have it. I'm not sure what your clip plug numbers are though. Going into the USBasp, the only cable I moved was the last one from position 8 to 9. I did all of the mixing and matching on the clip end. So the first wire in the ribbon cable matches up to USBasp 1, then 2 with 2, etc.
The clip plug numbers are for the 8 pin plug at the end of the cable.
I just discovered that the connection from pin 5 on the clip is broken between the tip and the little window at the side of the clip. What a bad quality!
The crimped leads seems to be easy to pull off and rearrange, so I think that I will make a straight connection between the two plugs with a 2x5 pin array and then rearrange the leads on the clip. Pin 9 on USBISP has to be handled separately.
I get exactly the same response from avrdude as you reported on nov.26. The green light (power on) is lid and the red flashes once when sending the command. There are more loose connections in the clip, that pease of sh..
I don't feel like going into micro surgery today, I am more courious of measuring on my newest light, a tiny Black Cat with Osram LED. This is my first Osram and I'm eager to see how it performs, tint-wise.
After a little (very small) soldering, and adding to the command: -P com2 -n (a little program, "USB View" showed me that USBasp was on Port2, the -n is for no writing).
I got this:
But what now ? Tido, can you help? I don't really know what this means. Is it good, or is it very good?
That looks very promising. AVRDude has successfully established a connection to the ATtiny. Now you could try flashing one of the prepared images. Go to the "Programmable" directory and call AVRDude like this:
avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e9007
avrdude: NOTE: FLASH memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed
To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
avrdude: current erase-rewrite cycle count is 18088202 (if being tracked)
avrdude: erasing chip
avrdude: reading input file "BLF-VLD.hex"
avrdude: input file BLF-VLD.hex auto detected as Intel Hex
avrdude: writing flash (1024 bytes):
As long as you don't set any lock bits and don't disable serial programming, the chip can be reprogrammed a few thousand times. Just make sure you get the fuses right (that's what '-Ulfuse:w:0x79:m -Uhfuse:w:0xef:m' does).
I got the clip. It's true not the greatest build quality, but it's pretty standard "pomona soic clip 5250" sold at digikey, etc. If any of the pins are short, you can push them out from inside the clip near the hinge.
My problem is that DX won't ship out the drivers. I should probably order some at KD.
This is my first post in the forum, and I just want to thank Tido for his work on the flashlight driver.
Using the soic clip listed in this thread and an arduino board as a very cheap avr programmer, I have now reprogrammed my BLF AA-Y4E to have exactly the modes I like.
It has also been great fun to play around with the driver software "inventing" highly unusable modes :-)
It's encouraging to hear people are having some success with this. I'll tinker around with mine some more this weekend and see if I can get it working. Nice that it works with the BLF AA Y4E, Nicolai! I always wonder how many people like you are lurking here, reading the threads, buying stuff, and yet we never know. Glad you've shown yourself.
brted - I found the following things a bit challenging:
1. My clip was of bad quality - some of the pins were pulled back a bit, making it hard to make proper contact with the pins of the chip
2. The right wires need to be connected from the AVR programmer to the connector of the soic clip. Your post with the images and tables helped me do that - thanks brted
3. Using Mac/OSX I had to download and set up a compiler environment (I chose CrossPack-AVR, http://www.obdev.at/products/crosspack/index.html) - this was easy :-)
4. Lastly I had to use the correct avrdude command line to program the chip. Tido and sixty545's comments above in this thread, helped enourmously - thanks guys.
None of the above are real showstoppers - I just had to take it easy and be careful - so good luck when you get to the tinkering :-)