The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

The GT has a 1/4”–20 threaded hole to accept a tripod.

I don’t have one, but it appears the MF04 has a larger hole that will need an insert to step it down to the standard 1/4”–20 thread.

Are you asking about something else?

He only wants to know what tripod to use with his lights.

Here is a good one I use:

However, it is close to the limit of 3kgs with the BLF GT and Astrolux MF04.

Carries the Q8 and MT09R quite well though.

You should contact Tracy here, maybe they have spare reflectors.
http://budgetlightforum.com/user/23289

Yup you are right. I sent them an email via their website and got a response to send them payment and they will send the switch boot cover. Thanks for the feedback. This is why I like this site and the members on here.

I do have a stupid question. It’s been a while since I posted here, even if I visit frecuently.
How do I post a new thread?. Thanks in advance.

Click on ‘Forum Categories’, find the right category for your thread, click on ‘new topic’.

Commander 8AX.

It’s been a while since I posted last. Even if I visit frecuently.
I keep buying the BLF lights, and consider I have them all, but the Giggle, if it is a BLF light.

Now, here’s the thing. I dared to buy a Surefire Commander 8AX NIB sealed from the factory.
It brings only one battery and no charger. As probably many of you know, but I didn’t.

I’m known for destroying flashlights trying to modify them.
In this case, I have the battery connected to the prones of a Xtar Dragon, which is USB and then
to my iPhone charger with a USB reader in between.
The battery is pulling about 1.20A, which I think is fine. You tell me.
Finally to the question: how long should I keep this rig going. Thank you for your help.

Here’s a stupid question: I have a TIR lens which was meant for a bigger led (i.e. xhp70, mtg2, etc.), but I’m planning on using a xp/xm sized led and the lens opening fits the led just right with a centering ring. Now, the question is, will the TIR lens be effective for a smaller led when it was designed for a bigger led?

Probably a bit better, as the lens would only have to worry about focusing a subset of what it’d have to deal with a bigger chip.

Thanks for the answers Newlumen :wink:
Better not to slice or dedome the XPL2 then :open_mouth:

I have a question that may be dump

-DD driver such as BLF A6 or Sofirn C8A/T drivers that use with 3V emitter ,can I use 2S battery to drive 6V emitter ?

Looking to try to “spring bypass” the tail switch in my Thorfire TG06S with a copper braid solder wick as an experiment. Do I go to the center of the switch board (exposed contact) or the base of the spring? Thank you.

Either will work, but I recommend the base of the spring as that encourages it to bend evenly. Silicone wire is also better than braid in this regard. Braid tends to break down over time.

So then would it always be better to use a TIR lens with a bigger fitment over a led, instead of finding a TIR lens that fits “just right” on a led?

It’s not a straight swap, because the 6v will fry the processor on the driver.

Do a search for “zener-mod” and you will get a lot of results. You basically have to add a couple parts to the driver that reduces the voltage for the mcu.

Thanks pilotdog68

Not if it goes swimming around in the lens, off-center.

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Not if it goes swimming around in the lens, off-center.
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Got it, that makes sense. Well now I know what type of TIRs to fit with xp/xm centering rings. Thanks for your input LB.

Just to expound on that a bit, ideally, you want the LED that’s recommended by the mfr of the lens. Think it’s LEDsupply that actually has efficiency charts of how various LED chips fare through the lens in question, so they’re designed for a certain geometry, and how the LED emits light (spread, stray light emitted from the sides, etc.) will all have a bearing on the overall system of LED+lens.

Using a lens designed for an XP-E/-E2 (XP footprint, small E-size chip) really shouldn’t be used for an XP-L if you can help it, as light from the corners of the L is farther off-center than from the corners of an E.

On the other hand, a lens designed to work nicely with an XP-L should have no difficulty dealing with an XP-E.

That’s why a teeny LED chip in a big reflector’s sweet-spot can give a way tighter focus than, say, a larger filament from a hotwire bulb. And that’s why with a bulb, you’ll typically get that football- or pacman-shaped hotspot on the wall.

That was my question in the first place. Maybe I should’ve phrased it differently. So you should keep with the manufacturer’s suggested led for the TIR lens, which is obvious. In the event that you don’t, since I can’t always find TIR lens to fit certain lights due to the available sizes, then make sure the led is centered but don’t expect the “optimum” beam. But I’m guessing though as long as the beam is pleasing to the eye, it should be fine even though it’s not optimum/efficient.

I know it’s easier to use the reflector I got with the light but I like the way TIR optics look over reflectors. I think it’s because it’s harder to notice flaws/dirt on a TIR than a reflector. Also, TIR optics usually gives me better looking beams, e.g. gets rid of crosses in beams, less tint shift, etc.