Samsung also manufactures some 6 lobe/prong cells: 22F, 24F, 26F, 26H, 26J…
Cheers :-)
Too many other factors possibly at work. First thing to do would be to repeat the test with the batteries swapped between Q8’s. If the same Q8 gets hotter the test is meaningless. Hotter Q8 (all else being equal) would mean better battery performance anyway, not worse.
So many things would need to be exactly the same for the test to be valid.
Assuming the batteries were all identically charged -
Between the Q8’s
Both would have to be exactly at maximum
Both would have to have the same thermal management temperature set, and the same step-down behaviour.
Both would need to start at the same temperature and have the same airflow for cooling
Both would need to have the same resistance, which could be upset by tightening, cleaning, spring tension, uneven screw tension etc.
Both would need to have the same thermal conductance, which could be affected by uneven thermal paste application.
At 6 minutes it is even possible that the one that felt hottest at the end was not the hottest all through, it may just be in a different stage of the thermal management step-up and step-down. It may be at a peak and about to step down, wheras the other may be in a trough and about to step up.
A better test would be to use the same Q8 starting at the same temperature, double clicked to turbo, tail-standing in the same place without airflow, and time it to the first step-down. Be sure to set the memory level to a medium or low output so you know for sure that your double click has really gone to turbo.
I tested a couple more cells and summarized my results a few posts up. Unfortunately, I have no new authentic 30Q's to test against. I averaged the results of my cells, but many of them have served hard duty for some time.
I filed a dispute because of the blatant false advertising and because the seller never responded to my attempt to my inquiry. The seller has responded that the pictures I provided are fake. That's funny. Some of my pics I provided are here:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/51322/141
Maybe others have used my pictures as evidence.
EDIT: Fixed some typos
That is a serious accusation against your character, all other issues aside they deserve to be boycotted just for that. Anyone making an accusation like that has the burden of proof , and must support their argument. They have made a positive factual claim, so they must substantiate it.
Ali-express need to step in here and see the seriousness of the conduct of one of their stores. Perhaps other Liitokala stores should also be informed of how their name is being dragged through the mud by the behaviour of this store.
I sent my own photos with one from the seller's page. He called them fake. But I also provided a link to the 30Q lygte-info review page.
Seller new proposal: no refund/no return.
Well, of course the good merchant is going to say that.
I was told that “the picture provided is false”. I asked for clarification and there was silence.
Aliexpress will step in in 4 days. Can’t wait.
Hopefully, Ali sees the pattern of his/her responses.
Mine came in, what exactly should I say to the seller? I ordered 6 30q, and as you have all said the top does not have 3 prongs. How do we explain how these are fakes ?
^
I recommend you contact the seller first and give him a chance to make it right. That will help you if you have to raise a dispute. Always looks better if you tried to work it out without Ali's assistance first. The seller never responded to my attempt to work it out.
You can only provide 3 pictures as evidence when you raise the dispute. I would try to take photos that show the following deviations from the pictures in the product page:
- Wrapper that is slightly darker and has irregularities. Authentic 30Q's are lighter colored and nicer quality.
- No Samsung product run and manufacturing date stamps on the metal can. You will need to strip the wrapper off a cells to do that. Include the wrapper in the picture next to the stripped cell. I plan to rewrap mine anyway as I don't want anyone to confuse them with actual 30Q's.
- Top of cell that has 4 prongs.
Hello! :-)
Related thread for those of you who may be interested: Seems like I got a six-pack of counterfeit/fake Samsung ICR18650-30B cells :-/
Well, I have a shipment with presumed fake cells on the way, should land home soon. This is of interest to me because we need to devise a way to make our rights to prevail. 
Cheers ^:)
Interestingly…
this shipment from Liitokala Factory Store was unusual because it was not delivered by the postman but by a courier. I believe it’s my first courier delivery from China.
Today I got a shipment of 21700-40A from Liitoka Official Store.
Courier too. And batteries came in exactly the same cardboard box. With exactly the same cushion.
They were very cheap too, ~$3.5 each.
Is there a serious risk of them being fake too?
I ordered an authentic NCR18650B from Illumn just so I can compare them side-to-side and gather evidence to file my claim. Please keep us informed here what works/doesn’t work when dealing with these scumbag sellers please.
So I wanted to see what these counterfeit 30Qs would do with my limited tests. Clearly, I wasn't going for max output with a D4 XP-L. I didn't want to start an uncontrolled cascade reaction with these unknown cells 
! Edit: Ok, changed my mind... I read about 8.4A with my D4 v's 9.8A from a newish Sony VTC5.
I used two lights: W612 host (QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER & XM-L2 U3 3D LED on Noctigon 20mm MCPCB) and GB Convoy S2 (XP-L HI)
1∆= 1st charge, delta meaning 'change in' V, A.
Here are the results:
| cell # | V (init)+/-.01 | A (W612) | A (S2) | V (1∆) | mAh | A (1∆ W612 | A (1∆ S2) |
| 1 | 3.62 | 2.0 | 1.92 | 4.20 | 2046 | 2.90 | 3.24 |
| 2 | 3.62 | 2.12 | 1.96 | 4.19 |
1995 | 2.96 | 3.27 |
| 3 | 3.62 | 2.1 | 1.90 | 4.19 | 2008 | 3.14 | 3.24 |
| 4 | 3.62 | 2.05 | 1.98 | 4.18 | 1946 | 3.13 | 3.25 |
| 5 | 3.62 | 4.19 | 1953 | 3.12 | 3.22 | ||
| 6 | 3.62 | 4.18 | 1915 | 3.12 | 3.27 |
I was a little surprised that these fakes pushed the S2 that hard but not the W612. Then again, I used the S2 for to its' consistency in manufacturing.
The first current readings were prior to charging and I started charging 5 & 6 without a current read.
Given the starting voltage, can I really expect to get 3,000 mAh?
If this helps anyone to figure out who manufactured these cells, then great!
While everything is possible, nearly for sure those ones are authentic because there's just no cheaper 21700 available with close enough specs to make it worth bulkfaking. In fact, that probably is the cheapest 21700 being produced right now. 
Cheers ^:)
So frustrating…
I’m on holiday and won’t be home until next Thursday… I have 18 of these coming…another cu s2 and a d4….
Hopefully everything is at the post office and I can dig into this thread a bit deeper that I can here with a phone and mediocre wifi…. I’ve only received one AliExpress delivery notification…I expect two from them….
I measured resistance of nearly new VTC5A, fake VTC5A and suspected Lii-40A.
In order:
12 mOhm, 16 mOhm, 10 mOhm.
Fakes are better than I expected. Lii-40A looks OK.
Note: I don’t trust the results to be close to accurate, but relatively should be OK.
What instrument did you use to make these internal resistance measurements? I am trying to zero in on one that is relatively accurate - or at least consistent. Thanks!
Basically this if you want to test both capacity and resistance with a 4-wire tester. Can do up to 10A.
If you only want resistance:
I guess those are 1KHz AC resistance figures, ¿doesn't it? Curious to see a higher figure for the VTC5A versus the Lii-40A, namely whereas its DC IR should be lower.
I do plan on accurately measuring cell DC IR with the aid of a precision power supply and a voltmeter with probes right at the battery terminals. Noting down the initial cell resting voltage, then proceeding to charge pump 5 - 10A of current into the battery for a brief timed lapse at which exact half time the loaded cell voltage is noted down. At last the final cell resting voltage is also taken into account (a tiny little while after the current is stopped to allow the voltage to settle). Cell DC IR is then calculated by substracting average cell resting voltage (½(Vrestinit + Vrestfinal)) from the loaded cell voltage to attain a dV value which is converted into the cell DC IR dividing it by the charge current value.
Cheers ^:)
Zanflare F1. I tried multiple insertions and here I show the best result.
I don’t trust the absolute values at all. But relative are usable. I should have made it clear…