In another light, the anodization lets you do mechanical lockout by breaking the connection
Just an FYI: the above only applies to lights that don’t have a PC board that the spring is soldered to. The PCB is isolated from the tail cap and completes the circuit between the negative terminal and the main body by making contact with the unanodized end of the battery tube.
In another light, the anodization lets you do mechanical lockout by breaking the connection
Just an FYI: the above only applies to lights that don’t have a PC board that the spring is soldered to. The PCB is isolated from the tail cap and completes the circuit between the negative terminal and the main body by making contact with the unanodized end of the battery tube.
Was referring to emisar d4
Good example. You can see that the PC board isolates the circuit from the tailcap and you could sand off the anodizing and still have lockout.
Here’s a link to a pic from TK’s review. http://toykeeper.net/torches/emisar-d4/full/tailcap-inside.jpg
That ring of copper is what the body touches when you screw it on.
But back to the FW3A, I can’t imagine any of us are too worried about the finish as this will be a “user” rather than a shelf queen.
In another light, the anodization lets you do mechanical lockout by breaking the connection
Just an FYI: the above only applies to lights that don’t have a PC board that the spring is soldered to. The PCB is isolated from the tail cap and completes the circuit between the negative terminal and the main body by making contact with the unanodized end of the battery tube.
Was referring to emisar d4
Good example. You can see that the PC board isolates the circuit from the tailcap and you could sand off the anodizing and still have lockout.
Here’s a link to a pic from TK’s review. http://toykeeper.net/torches/emisar-d4/full/tailcap-inside.jpg
That ring of copper is what the body touches when you screw it on.
But back to the FW3A, I can’t imagine any of us are too worried about the finish as this will be a “user” rather than a shelf queen.
Hmm, yeah it does. I do remember hearing that it was not so with another; maybe there’s some difference in the way the titanium one works, and that’s what I was hearing about. But yeah, I don’t think for a moment this won’t see some wear… might look better to not anodize and just polish scratches out as best as possible; regular anodizing isn’t immune anyway. I could go either way.
The tailcap might be able to do lockout by loosening it, but I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s not really meant to be unscrewed. It makes the clip loose, allows the tubes to slide relative to each other, and could still make contact by pushing the button hard enough to pop the rear PCB loose.
So… keep the tail end tightened up unless you’re swapping the button or clip or something. Change the battery at the front end instead.
(But, as I posted earlier; I am a strong advocate of letting Fritz make the choice!!) And as pinkpanda3310 stated, this will also eliminate stretching out this project even further.
That in itself is a win all the way around…..
…
pinkpanda3310 wrote:
teacher wrote:
Here is another thought.
Fritz designed this light (as far as I know), let him decide the finish & the rest of us can just deal with it if it happens to not be our particular preference.
I agree. No need to stretch this out even more.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Honestly, the finish doesn’t matter to me at all. Not a bit, especially if it won’t matter with regard to a physical lock out. (I’d prefer a physical lock out, given the option, by the way). So, I agree, let the designer decide.
Both prototypes had it, but it’s a lot more noticeable on proto2.
However, I’ve heard that it took Convoy a while to get the clear anodizing right, and even then, it seems to be so thin that it can still conduct electricity sometimes. On my clear C8, I can measure electrical contact between a bunch of different places on the outer surface of the light.
My guess is that they crammed the anodising tank too full. Imagine lots of tubes standing in square formation, Current density i.e. ano. thickness varying dependent on how close to each neighbour. Hence “seams” at 90 degrees.
I think a natural hard anodising would suit the light and keeps the original “raw” idea. Bit like the old Novatac flashlights.
Agreed, that would be perfect, and so durable. But proper thick hard anodising is a slow cold expensive process, I doubt Lumintop would know how, even if the alloy is suitable. It would be nice if they could though, it would lift it into a different class.
Rarely seen on a torch despite claims, the only one I have with it is an Inova X1, but I’ve also seen it on Surefires and I think Zebralight. None of which are $30 torches.
The main thing is no gaudy colours, and no bead-blast please.
Agreed, that would be perfect, and so durable. But proper thick hard anodising is a slow cold expensive process, I doubt Lumintop would know how, even if the alloy is suitable. It would be nice if they could though, it would lift it into a different class.
Rarely seen on a torch despite claims, the only one I have with it is an Inova X1, but I’ve also seen it on Surefires and I think Zebralight. None of which are $30 torches.
The main thing is no gaudy colours, and no bead-blast please.
Yeah, we’re definitely not getting a good ano, but I still think it’s better than raw.
Not sure whether Fritz is in tight control here, this is now quite a big project, and Lumintop will do what they do, hopefully listening to feedback.
Edit: and striving to up their game, which this already does no-matter the finish. Otherwise why bother with BLF unless you are going to listen and learn ?
Aesthetics matter to me, but I won’t get too precious about them on a $30 torch. Though it could be done beautifully and within budget.
Was referring to emisar d4
Card Carrying CRI baby
Good example. You can see that the PC board isolates the circuit from the tailcap and you could sand off the anodizing and still have lockout.
Here’s a link to a pic from TK’s review. http://toykeeper.net/torches/emisar-d4/full/tailcap-inside.jpg
That ring of copper is what the body touches when you screw it on.
But back to the FW3A, I can’t imagine any of us are too worried about the finish as this will be a “user” rather than a shelf queen.
Hmm, yeah it does. I do remember hearing that it was not so with another; maybe there’s some difference in the way the titanium one works, and that’s what I was hearing about. But yeah, I don’t think for a moment this won’t see some wear… might look better to not anodize and just polish scratches out as best as possible; regular anodizing isn’t immune anyway. I could go either way.
Card Carrying CRI baby
Anything except raw/bare.
The tailcap might be able to do lockout by loosening it, but I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s not really meant to be unscrewed. It makes the clip loose, allows the tubes to slide relative to each other, and could still make contact by pushing the button hard enough to pop the rear PCB loose.
So… keep the tail end tightened up unless you’re swapping the button or clip or something. Change the battery at the front end instead.
+1
31 knives for sale=USA only ☮♫☯
I think a natural hard anodising would suit the light and keeps the original “raw” idea. Bit like the old Novatac flashlights.
Post #4000!
(At the moment.)
31 knives for sale=USA only ☮♫☯
I’m in for 1 if there be a LH351D version.
(But, as I posted earlier; I am a strong advocate of letting Fritz make the choice!!) And as pinkpanda3310 stated, this will also eliminate stretching out this project even further.
That in itself is a win all the way around…..
…
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Honestly, the finish doesn’t matter to me at all. Not a bit, especially if it won’t matter with regard to a physical lock out. (I’d prefer a physical lock out, given the option, by the way). So, I agree, let the designer decide.
My guess is that they crammed the anodising tank too full. Imagine lots of tubes standing in square formation, Current density i.e. ano. thickness varying dependent on how close to each neighbour. Hence “seams” at 90 degrees.
Agreed, that would be perfect, and so durable. But proper thick hard anodising is a slow cold expensive process, I doubt Lumintop would know how, even if the alloy is suitable. It would be nice if they could though, it would lift it into a different class.
Rarely seen on a torch despite claims, the only one I have with it is an Inova X1, but I’ve also seen it on Surefires and I think Zebralight. None of which are $30 torches.
The main thing is no gaudy colours, and no bead-blast please.
I think at this point a natural HA would look best.
-the- Throw calculator - Pulsars list
Yeah, we’re definitely not getting a good ano, but I still think it’s better than raw.
I like the silver finish. it looks unique. I assume they can get rid of the uneven anodizing in the production run.
Black.
I “vote” that Fritz decide this thing about anodization and colour!!
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+1
“vote” that Fritz decide this thing about anodization and colour!
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
please put me down for 1. thanks
TK asked us for our opinions, so I’ve given mine.
Not sure whether Fritz is in tight control here, this is now quite a big project, and Lumintop will do what they do, hopefully listening to feedback.
Edit: and striving to up their game, which this already does no-matter the finish. Otherwise why bother with BLF unless you are going to listen and learn ?
Aesthetics matter to me, but I won’t get too precious about them on a $30 torch. Though it could be done beautifully and within budget.
Amen.
My first opinion is let Fritz choose.
BUT if he cannot or does not want to do that……
My next opinion is..
Just no raw unanodized aluminum on this $36 light.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
+1
Medium or dark grey would be awesome.
Not keen on unanodized/raw or ‘silver’ anodising.
My first opinion is let Fritz choose.
BUT if he cannot or does not want to do that……
My next opinion is..
Just no raw unanodized aluminum on this $36 light.
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
Interested +1
Please add me to the list for one (1).
And for discussion:
I prefer anodized, color doesn’t matter much as long as it isn’t pink or such.
interested+1
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