FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

13550 posts / 0 new
Last post
spaceminions
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 07/20/2015 - 14:18
Posts: 149
Location: Texas, USA
bansuri wrote:
spaceminions wrote:
In another light, the anodization lets you do mechanical lockout by breaking the connection

Just an FYI: the above only applies to lights that don’t have a PC board that the spring is soldered to. The PCB is isolated from the tail cap and completes the circuit between the negative terminal and the main body by making contact with the unanodized end of the battery tube.

Was referring to emisar d4

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

bansuri
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 01/30/2017 - 23:43
Posts: 437
Location: Land of Lincoln
spaceminions wrote:
bansuri wrote:
spaceminions wrote:
In another light, the anodization lets you do mechanical lockout by breaking the connection

Just an FYI: the above only applies to lights that don’t have a PC board that the spring is soldered to. The PCB is isolated from the tail cap and completes the circuit between the negative terminal and the main body by making contact with the unanodized end of the battery tube.

Was referring to emisar d4


Good example. You can see that the PC board isolates the circuit from the tailcap and you could sand off the anodizing and still have lockout.
Here’s a link to a pic from TK’s review. http://toykeeper.net/torches/emisar-d4/full/tailcap-inside.jpg
That ring of copper is what the body touches when you screw it on.

But back to the FW3A, I can’t imagine any of us are too worried about the finish as this will be a “user” rather than a shelf queen. LOL

spaceminions
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 07/20/2015 - 14:18
Posts: 149
Location: Texas, USA
bansuri wrote:
spaceminions wrote:
bansuri wrote:
spaceminions wrote:
In another light, the anodization lets you do mechanical lockout by breaking the connection

Just an FYI: the above only applies to lights that don’t have a PC board that the spring is soldered to. The PCB is isolated from the tail cap and completes the circuit between the negative terminal and the main body by making contact with the unanodized end of the battery tube.

Was referring to emisar d4


Good example. You can see that the PC board isolates the circuit from the tailcap and you could sand off the anodizing and still have lockout.
Here’s a link to a pic from TK’s review. http://toykeeper.net/torches/emisar-d4/full/tailcap-inside.jpg
That ring of copper is what the body touches when you screw it on.

But back to the FW3A, I can’t imagine any of us are too worried about the finish as this will be a “user” rather than a shelf queen. LOL


Hmm, yeah it does. I do remember hearing that it was not so with another; maybe there’s some difference in the way the titanium one works, and that’s what I was hearing about. But yeah, I don’t think for a moment this won’t see some wear… might look better to not anodize and just polish scratches out as best as possible; regular anodizing isn’t immune anyway. I could go either way.

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

maukka
maukka's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 29 min ago
Joined: 12/31/2015 - 04:15
Posts: 1963
Location: Finland

Anything except raw/bare.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10005
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

The tailcap might be able to do lockout by loosening it, but I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s not really meant to be unscrewed. It makes the clip loose, allows the tubes to slide relative to each other, and could still make contact by pushing the button hard enough to pop the rear PCB loose.

So… keep the tail end tightened up unless you’re swapping the button or clip or something. Change the battery at the front end instead.

raccoon city
raccoon city's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 9 min ago
Joined: 10/06/2010 - 02:35
Posts: 13343
Location: रॅकून सिटी Palm Desert CA USA

maukka wrote:

Anything except raw/bare.

+1

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 6 days ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 1114
Location: Netherlands

I think a natural hard anodising would suit the light and keeps the original “raw” idea. Bit like the old Novatac flashlights.

raccoon city
raccoon city's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 9 min ago
Joined: 10/06/2010 - 02:35
Posts: 13343
Location: रॅकून सिटी Palm Desert CA USA

Post #4000!

(At the moment.)

kevinw0lf
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 17 hours ago
Joined: 06/24/2018 - 03:27
Posts: 4
Location: Brazil

I’m in for 1 if there be a LH351D version.

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9596
Location: NE & SW Alabama

raccoon city wrote:

maukka wrote:

Anything except raw/bare.


+1

+2

(But, as I posted earlier; I am a strong advocate of letting Fritz make the choice!!) And as pinkpanda3310 stated, this will also eliminate stretching out this project even further.
That in itself is a win all the way around….. Thumbs Up

pinkpanda3310 wrote:
teacher wrote:
Here is another thought. Fritz designed this light (as far as I know), let him decide the finish & the rest of us can just deal with it if it happens to not be our particular preference. Thumbs Up
I agree. No need to stretch this out even more.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

cabfrank
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 4 min ago
Joined: 11/19/2010 - 17:25
Posts: 2954
Location: healdsburg, california usa earth

Honestly, the finish doesn’t matter to me at all. Not a bit, especially if it won’t matter with regard to a physical lock out. (I’d prefer a physical lock out, given the option, by the way). So, I agree, let the designer decide.

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 1163
ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
I don’t understand why there are seams 90° apart.

TBH, I don’t know either.

Both prototypes had it, but it’s a lot more noticeable on proto2.

However, I’ve heard that it took Convoy a while to get the clear anodizing right, and even then, it seems to be so thin that it can still conduct electricity sometimes. On my clear C8, I can measure electrical contact between a bunch of different places on the outer surface of the light.

My guess is that they crammed the anodising tank too full. Imagine lots of tubes standing in square formation, Current density i.e. ano. thickness varying dependent on how close to each neighbour. Hence “seams” at 90 degrees.

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 1163
Geuzzz wrote:
I think a natural hard anodising would suit the light and keeps the original “raw” idea. Bit like the old Novatac flashlights.

Agreed, that would be perfect, and so durable. But proper thick hard anodising is a slow cold expensive process, I doubt Lumintop would know how, even if the alloy is suitable. It would be nice if they could though, it would lift it into a different class.

Rarely seen on a torch despite claims, the only one I have with it is an Inova X1, but I’ve also seen it on Surefires and I think Zebralight. None of which are $30 torches.

The main thing is no gaudy colours, and no bead-blast please.

Pulsar
Pulsar's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 07/29/2011 - 00:41
Posts: 5840
Location: Maine

I think at this point a natural HA would look best.

Eraursls1984
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 47 min ago
Joined: 11/08/2014 - 01:44
Posts: 211
Location: North Florida

Tom Tom wrote:
Agreed, that would be perfect, and so durable. But proper thick hard anodising is a slow cold expensive process, I doubt Lumintop would know how, even if the alloy is suitable. It would be nice if they could though, it would lift it into a different class.

Rarely seen on a torch despite claims, the only one I have with it is an Inova X1, but I’ve also seen it on Surefires and I think Zebralight. None of which are $30 torches.

The main thing is no gaudy colours, and no bead-blast please.


Yeah, we’re definitely not getting a good ano, but I still think it’s better than raw.
Dman7777
Dman7777's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 5 hours ago
Joined: 09/02/2017 - 11:50
Posts: 102
Location: United States

I like the silver finish. it looks unique. I assume they can get rid of the uneven anodizing in the production run.

Nev
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 04/06/2017 - 07:50
Posts: 1013
Location: U.K.

Black.

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 17 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 4163
Location: Portugal

I “vote” that Fritz decide this thing about anodization and colour!!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

shirnask
shirnask's picture
Offline
Last seen: 28 min 5 sec ago
Joined: 03/21/2016 - 23:58
Posts: 1039
Location: Louisiana

+1

pepinfaxera
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 06/25/2015 - 12:53
Posts: 269
Location: Gijón - Spain - Europe

MascaratumB wrote:
I “vote” that Fritz decide this thing about anodization and colour!!
Thumbs Up . Thumbs Up . Thumbs Up
“vote” that Fritz decide this thing about anodization and colour!

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9596
Location: NE & SW Alabama
Thumbs Up … /\ … Yep.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

scottie888
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 05/25/2018 - 20:31
Posts: 6
Location: Canada

please put me down for 1. thanks

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 1163

TK asked us for our opinions, so I’ve given mine.

Not sure whether Fritz is in tight control here, this is now quite a big project, and Lumintop will do what they do, hopefully listening to feedback.

Edit: and striving to up their game, which this already does no-matter the finish. Otherwise why bother with BLF unless you are going to listen and learn ?

Aesthetics matter to me, but I won’t get too precious about them on a $30 torch. Though it could be done beautifully and within budget.

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9596
Location: NE & SW Alabama

Amen. Thumbs Up

My first opinion is let Fritz choose.
BUT if he cannot or does not want to do that……

My next opinion is..

  • Bead Blast & Anodize Grey (1) or Black (2) or even Clear (3)

Just no raw unanodized aluminum on this $36 light.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

severide
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 5 hours ago
Joined: 06/01/2018 - 15:16
Posts: 115
Location: United States
MascaratumB wrote:
I “vote” that Fritz decide this thing about anodization and colour!!

+1

gravelmonkey
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 4 hours ago
Joined: 08/17/2012 - 20:28
Posts: 242
Location: UK/South America

Medium or dark grey would be awesome.

Not keen on unanodized/raw or ‘silver’ anodising.

pepinfaxera
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 06/25/2015 - 12:53
Posts: 269
Location: Gijón - Spain - Europe

MascaratumB wrote:
I “vote” that Fritz decide this thing about anodization and colour!!
teacher wrote:
Amen. Thumbs Up

My first opinion is let Fritz choose.
BUT if he cannot or does not want to do that……

My next opinion is..

  • Bead Blast & Anodize Grey (1) or Black (2) or even Clear (3)

Just no raw unanodized aluminum on this $36 light.

Thumbs Up . . . Thumbs Up . . . Thumbs Up
My first opinion is let Fritz choose.
BUT if he cannot or does not want to do that……

My next opinion is..

  • Bead Blast & Anodize Grey (1) or Black (2) or even Clear (3)

Just no raw unanodized aluminum on this $36 light.

maukka wrote:
Anything except raw/bare.

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

Gondwanaland
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 4 months ago
Joined: 06/24/2018 - 19:08
Posts: 1

Interested +1

cannesahs
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 1 week ago
Joined: 06/04/2018 - 01:24
Posts: 7
Location: Finland

Please add me to the list for one (1).

And for discussion:
I prefer anodized, color doesn’t matter much as long as it isn’t pink or such.

Polyesterboy
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 04/16/2018 - 06:02
Posts: 24
Location: Melbourne, Australia

interested+1

Pages