Review: ROFIS MR70

Nice reviews. One ordered!

Hi JasonWW,

I’m interested in this light. I was wondering if the emitter pcb can be easily swapped?

I might want to mod mine with a NW Xhp70.2 emitter.

Thanks

Don’t look to me, I don’t know anything about this light.

In theory, they are probably using a common 20mm DTP copper star. We need to get confirmation on that. Maybe someone has looked?

If so, then it should be pretty easy to swap it. Just undo the bezel and take out the reflector. Unsolder the 2 wires and undo any anti rotation screws. It will pop out.

I dont know any places near Africa that sells emitters mounted to stars so you’ll probably need to order a new one from China. Maybe Kaidomain. We also need to figure out if it is 6 Volt or 12 volt.

This is just basic emitter swapping stuff and is not specific to this light.

Getting the emitter and star is not an issue, MTN ships to SA, tried and trusted. I’m planning on buying a few items in the not too distant future, so now I’m bargaining on someone who owns one to open it and tests it.

Do you perhaps know of someone in the forums who owns one?

Hi weklund,

I see you already own a MR70! Are you perhaps willing to open the bezel of your light and perhaps test the voltage across the emitter and maybe post a picture of the star? :question:

Best light made to date?

Has anyone taken any amp draw measurements across the tail cap, yet?

How long does it hold turbo? The chart makes it look like 1 minute or so.

I got 70 seconds on Turbo but it wasn’t hot so I knocked it back up.

Sometimes turbo stepping down early can be a good safety thing. In red hot conditions sometimes a timed turbo can outlast a turbo set to 50c stepdown etc.

Hi,

I seem to get only 1-3 seconds before stepping down from turbo. What can I be doing wrong? Or could it be the battery?

Probably the battery. Is it fully charged?

It was, but I just charged it fully and now it’s better, but it was only down 1/3 or so.

What is your definition of 1/3?

Being a boost driver, it pulls a lot of current from the battery. I’m told the stock battery has a protection circuit added on and those typically cause extra voltage sag.

For the longest usage of turbo you need a good high drain unprotected battery. A Liitokala 5000 or Shockli 5500 for instance.

I totally agree. I have a Wuben T102 Pro and it came with a protected cell. I inserted my unprotected Shockli 5500 mah cell and it was an instant performance increase. Not sure if the Rofis cell is protected because I’m still waiting for mine. The South African postal service is on strike AGAIN so further delays. Fuuuuuu*#!

The bundled cell of MR70 is actually an unrpotected PLB INR26650-55A (yes, a simple re-wrap), which is, the same cell core used in Shockli 5500mAh. I’m a bit surprised that no one ever pointed this out…

This is odd, I was told this:

From this post.

I found a picture with the stock orange battery next to a unprotected KeepPower and they look the same length.

So I’m not sure what to think. Maybe Rofis uses 2 different batteries, one protected and one not?

69.6mm x 26.8mm

Ah, so they have 2 different batteries.

Funnily enough, that’s what brought me back to the thread, just noticed mine is stepping down after only a couple of seconds and I don’t remember it doing that before…

I have the protected battery version.

If only that Official Litikala Store on Aliexpress would have shipped my 4 26650's faster, 7 weeks so far, I'm in the UK.

When they come ill do some amp testing on my MR70, only other highish capacity cell I have is the one out of my Thrunite Catapult V6 which is also protected.

I was just helping somebody with the same problem on either MR70 or MR50. The thing about these boost drivers is that there very sensitive to resistance. Make sure to clean the battery ends as well as the contact area on the springs. The person that had the problem was able to fix it by cleaning their driver spring as it had some debris or oil or something on it.

I little bit of extra resistance will cause the driver to pull a lot more amps which will cause the light to step down to a lower level.

The protection circuitry in these batteries makes the light more likely two step down to a lower level prematurely compared to an unprotected high drain battery.