FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

TK asked us for our opinions, so I’ve given mine.

Not sure whether Fritz is in tight control here, this is now quite a big project, and Lumintop will do what they do, hopefully listening to feedback.

Edit: and striving to up their game, which this already does no-matter the finish. Otherwise why bother with BLF unless you are going to listen and learn ?

Aesthetics matter to me, but I won’t get too precious about them on a $30 torch. Though it could be done beautifully and within budget.

Amen. :+1:

My first opinion is let Fritz choose.
BUT if he cannot or does not want to do that……

My next opinion is…

  • Bead Blast & Anodize Grey (1) or Black (2) or even Clear (3)

Just no raw unanodized aluminum on this $36 light.

+1

Medium or dark grey would be awesome.

Not keen on unanodized/raw or ‘silver’ anodising.

:+1: . . . :+1: . . . :+1:
My first opinion is let Fritz choose.
BUT if he cannot or does not want to do that……

My next opinion is…

  • Bead Blast & Anodize Grey (1) or Black (2) or even Clear (3)

Just no raw unanodized aluminum on this $36 light.

Interested +1

Please add me to the list for one (1).

And for discussion:
I prefer anodized, color doesn’t matter much as long as it isn’t pink or such.

interested+1

Bare, blasted, clear, whatever.
Won’t be looking at it.

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Greetings.

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I wasn’t able to read all the previous posts, but I’m wondering about the emitter poll results. As of last time I was following the polls, the XP-L Hi version had already overtaken the lead over the Samsung LH351D as top choice.

I’m wondering if the “people’s choice” results have already been forwarded to Lumintop for evaluation? (I actually would like to try out both these 2 versions, if Lumintop would offer both of them, fingers crossed).

Dark grey.

@d_t_a :

It looks like the XPL HI was the most popular choice, followed closely by the LH351D. The rest weren’t really close at all to those two, if I’m reading the results correctly. According to the updated OP the results have been submitted to Lumintop, so now we play the waiting game…

I’m really hoping the LH351D is offered in a neutral or warmer tint. That would be awesome.

Oops I just made vote, said on the website that it wasn’t closed yet. TBH if it’s not offered in high cri I’m out + I don’t see the point in a 4 LED light with throwy emitters………

They will do just fine with the optic is the way I see it. But each has a preference of our own.

It’s 3 emitters, but it’s not throwy. It’s expected to be in the range of about 2 to 4 cd / lm, which puts it solidly in the “floody” category. Generally 5 to 15 cd / lm is the common range for EDC-style lights, under 5 is really floody, and over 15 is typically considered more of a thrower.

The main point of XP-L HI in this light is to get as close as possible to a common EDC-style beam without sacrificing overall output.

OTOH, I’d probably also be happy if it was a FW1A, with a single LH351D 5000K 90CRI in an OP reflector. It would make the light a bit longer, but I think it would still be bright enough.

I think that would be great for a second version also.

:+1: /\

ToyKeeper,

Since the opinions offered so far on the finish are all over the map, do you think it would be wise to start another Condorcet poll for the finish? I know some specifically said they’d rather not draw this out, but it seems the opinions differ wildly even among the few who have answered here so far.

With the surface treatment you have to differentiate between the mechanical finish and the chemical finish.

For the mechanical finish I think the major options are:

  • No finish. The light is taken "as is" from the CNC machine, this means it will potentially have some slight machine marks (groves and such). This should be the cheapest option, because no extra manufacturing steps are required. I believe this option was intended from the start.
  • Beadblasted or sandblasted. This will hide machine marks. Depending on how it is done (how severe and if sand or beads are used), the light will feel relatively smooth, slightly velvety or even a bit like sandpaper (like ArmyTek lights). The prototypes have such a finish, but I'm not sure how smooth or rough the surface is, maybe someone who has handled the prototypes can tell us.
  • Polished. This will hide machine marks and makes the light shiny. As far as I know this option is better in terms of durability (of the anodization) compared to bead-/sandblasting.

For the chemical finish the major options are:

  • No treatment, i.e. bare aluminium. This should be the cheapest option, but the surface won't have any protective layer. Not sure about the durability and potential staining (maybe someone with a non-anodized BLF A6 can chime in).
  • Anodized. Here it is a question of color. With all colors other than black there is a risk of color mismatches between different parts of the light (e.g. body and tailcap), but black is very boring, thousands of lights are black. To minimize the risk of color mismatches it is probably best to anodize all parts of one particular light simultaneously (not sure if Lumintop is able/willing to do this). Natural color (a light or medium grey, sometimes leaning towards olive green) is, as far as I know, the most durable color.
  • Any other surface treatment, like ceramic coating, DLC, a coating using PVD method (TiN, TiCN, TiAlN, CrN, CrVN, CrAlN...), chrome plating, electroless nickel plating and probably many more. These are seldomly used on flashlights and would therefore make the light more unique, but most of these are probably not feasible because they either can't be done in house by Lumintop and/or they are too costly (but it is IMO at least worth asking if they are feasible). Electroless nickel plating is IMO most the interesting, it is used by Prometheus Lights (Darksucks). The first run of Preon P 1 Mk III was made with 4 different finishes and the pictures are great to compare surface treatments.

My first choice would be no mechanical finish (slight machine marks add character and I believe it was intended this way from the start) with electroless nickel plating (has a very nice "metal" look and is better than bare aluminium and probably also better/more durable than clear anodization).

My second choice (in case electroless nickel plating is not feasible) would be no mechanical finish plus anodization in any color other than black, preferably natural color (or maybe dark grey).